Issues wth Newly Installed Sat 129

[PRPirate]

Hello everybody,

I just hooked up into sat 129. I have 110/119 using a dish 500 plus and a newly installed single dish for the 129. I'm using a chieta switch. 110/119 goes into port 1 and 129 into port 4. Not sure if it's the IKS Rocket provider but I get freezing, pixelation, screen turns green for a moment. The receiver I'm using is I-Link 9600. 110/119 is fine. Am I hooked up ok? I thought I read somewhere that a power inserter is necessary.

[kijiji]

chieta dose not use a power inserter just dp dose as for rockets and nfps their not the most stable for 129w.

[Terryl]

If you have the new style DP twin LNB on the Dish 500 with the extra LNB input then yes you will need the external DC power inserter for the DPP 44 switch, (not the switch but only the DC power inserter, the only one the will work for that DP twin LNB) as the DC current draw is too high for your receiver.

But if you have 3 separate LNB's (one for each bird) and an external switch then no, you don't need the extra DC power supply.

If you have the first type of LNB then you don't need the external switch, that LNB on the Dish 500 plus has an input port for an external LNB, but it has to be a DP dual (single satellite dual output) LNB to match the DP twin on the Dish 500.

What may be happening is your getting Diseqc switch commands that are confusing the internal/external switching for the 129 setup, this is due to signal leakage in the switch, thry the LNB for 129 on switch port #3 and set your Diseqc switch for that port..

The only proven switch to work with this type of LNB setup is the DPP44, but only if the LNB's are all DP type and from Dish.

[Terryl]

One other this is the dish size for 129, 129 has a funny footprint, it doesn't cover as well as 110/119, you may need a bigger dish for 129.

Here is an interactive footprint map for 129W, use the CONUS footprint as the one for Canada is not active, zoom into your location and click on it, this will give you the estimated dish size needed for 129 in your area.


http://www.satbeams.com/footprints?norad=33453

[PRPirate]

I double checked my setup. I'm using a regular dish pro 500 dish (not plus) but using a dish pro plus lnb. I have the extra input but forgot I had that external input and didn't use it. I have plugged in to port 1 and also port 2 (I believe it's for a 2nd receiver but that's how I have it setup.) I choose OCS-DP for the LNB frequency. I placed the 2nd dish/single lnb for 129 on port 3 as suggested. I choose 11250 for lnb frequency. Same issue when switch from port 4 to 3. Anyway, I decided to remove all other dishes and went straight from the 129 dish to the receiver. Same issue. So, I would say it's the IKS provider. Thank you for your input.

[PRPirate]

One other this is the dish size for 129, 129 has a funny footprint, it doesn't cover as well as 110/119, you may need a bigger dish for 129.

Here is an interactive footprint map for 129W, use the CONUS footprint as the one for Canada is not active, zoom into your location and click on it, this will give you the estimated dish size needed for 129 in your area.


http://www.satbeams.com/footprints?norad=33453

I get 99% quality using a 22 inch dish.

[Terryl]

You must be in one of it's hotspots, I almost live right under 129 and need a 33" dish for good "Q", I even use it for my dish receivers, run everything into a DPP44 switch, without any problems.

As you say it could be the provider your using.

Look at TP 12516R on 129W, do a channel scan and see if you get channel 9599, It should be in the clear and in SD, it should say "You have a dish at 129 west".

You say you have the DP plus LNB on the D500, is it for 118 also?

You don't need the external switch with that LNB, that could be the problem, use the external LNB input for the 129 LNB (the LNB must be a DP type LNB) and use Diseqc port #1 for 119 Diseqc port #2 for 110 and Diseqc port #3 for 129, OCS-DP for all LNB's, you can run a single coax to your receiver for this, however you may have DC current problems, as the combined LNB's will need about 600 to 700 mA of DC current to run them.

This could be your problem to begin with, all 3 LNB's need to have enough DC current to run right, what type and brand of coax are you using?

The wrong type can also affect the signals, you say your "Q" is 99% but what is the "S" reading for 129?

[PRPirate]

Thanks for your help Terryl.

Yes, I get channel 9599. It is not in the clear though. The info for the channel does say "Congratulations, you are pointed at a 129 orbital location."

I believe it can be used for 118 but I'm not using it.

I'm not using a single DP lnb. I'm using a direcTV lnb (Compatible with DIRECTV Multi-satellite, DIRECTV PARA TODOS and DIRECTV Dish Antennas) for the 129 sat. Can this be my issue? I have another spare directv lnb that says Compatible with DIRECTV PLUS. I also have a spare twin dishpro lnb. Again, can this be the issue?

I use RG-6/U Quad shielded Coax cable.

The signal reading i get is the following:
73-79% on 12457
74-79% on 12472
78-80% on 12486
66-70% on 12501
67-69% on 12516
67-71% on 12530
62-66% on 12545
66-69% on 12559
60-63% on 12574
60-63>99% on 12588
60>99% on 12618
85-88% on 12632
60>98% on 12647
84-88% on 12661
88-92% on 12676

[StanW]

Do you have a model number for that dtv lnb ?

[PRPirate]

See pic18502

[Terryl]

The DTV and Dish Pro LNB are not compatible with each other, so you can't use the LNB input on the Dish Pro LNB.

And you must use the "Standard" setting for the DTV LNB, OCS-DP will not work too good for that LNB.

You should try the OCS-DP settings for the DP LNB,(119/110) and standard for the DTV LNB, (129) then set up your external switch for Diseqc port #1 = 119, Diseqc port #2 for 110 and Diseqc port #3 for 129.

However this will not avoid any possible control signal leakage at the switch, it would be best to get a single DP dual LNB for the 129 dish and replace the DTV LNB, this would avoid any possible interaction between the two different brands.

And this way you can get rid of the external switch and use the LNB input port on the DP plus LNB, however this setup would require the DPP 44 switch power inserter to run the LNB's, as your receiver can't run all 3 by it's self.

[PRPirate]

O.K. I'm going to get a single dish pro lnb for 129 and hook it up to the external input on the dish pro plus lnb. I'm also gonna get the DPP 44 switch power inserter. I just have to replace it right where my chieta switch is, right? I also read on a thread you posted.

"Now comes the big problem, and that’s using the FTA receiver with a power injector like the DPP power inserter for the DPP44 switch, this type of power inserter uses the coax to supply the switch with 20 to 22 volts of DC voltage at around 1 amp of current, this will run the switch (or DPP+ LNB) just fine, however it will not let the DC control voltage from the FTA receiver to pass through as the power inserter has a DC block on the receiver input side, this will cause all sorts of problems for the FTA receiver, it may even damage the receivers power supply. "


Can you explain a little more? I don't want to mess up my I-Link 9600 receiver.

[PRPirate]

If you have the new style DP twin LNB on the Dish 500 with the extra LNB input then yes you will need the external DC power inserter for the DPP 44 switch, (not the switch but only the DC power inserter, the only one the will work for that DP twin LNB) as the DC current draw is too high for your receiver.

But if you have 3 separate LNB's (one for each bird) and an external switch then no, you don't need the extra DC power supply.

If you have the first type of LNB then you don't need the external switch, that LNB on the Dish 500 plus has an input port for an external LNB, but it has to be a DP dual (single satellite dual output) LNB to match the DP twin on the Dish 500.

What may be happening is your getting Diseqc switch commands that are confusing the internal/external switching for the 129 setup, this is due to signal leakage in the switch, thry the LNB for 129 on switch port #3 and set your Diseqc switch for that port..

The only proven switch to work with this type of LNB setup is the DPP44, but only if the LNB's are all DP type and from Dish.

I was thinking that maybe it would be better to switch from the Dish 500 Pro PLUS twin lnb to just the Dish 500 Pro twin lnb. I already have a spare DP 500 lnb. This would help in keeping the power requirements lower, right?

[alecky]

I was thinking that maybe it would be better to switch from the Dish 500 Pro PLUS twin lnb to just the Dish 500 Pro twin lnb. I already have a spare DP 500 lnb. This would help in keeping the power requirements lower, right?


Yes, this will help with power requirements. You'll need to run three cables to your external switch. Both outputs from twin going to port 1 and port 2. Then run 129 cable to either port 3 or 4.

[Terryl]

O.K. I'm going to get a single dish pro lnb for 129 and hook it up to the external input on the dish pro plus lnb. I'm also gonna get the DPP 44 switch power inserter. I just have to replace it right where my chieta switch is, right? I also read on a thread you posted.

"Now comes the big problem, and that’s using the FTA receiver with a power injector like the DPP power inserter for the DPP44 switch, this type of power inserter uses the coax to supply the switch with 20 to 22 volts of DC voltage at around 1 amp of current, this will run the switch (or DPP+ LNB) just fine, however it will not let the DC control voltage from the FTA receiver to pass through as the power inserter has a DC block on the receiver input side, this will cause all sorts of problems for the FTA receiver, it may even damage the receivers power supply. "



Can you explain a little more? I don't want to mess up my I-Link 9600 receiver.

Not needed as the OCS-DP setting uses the DP LNB band stacking to provide the "R" and "L" polarity transponders.

Only a standard or legacy LNB needs the +14 and +18 volts to switch between the transponder polarity's.

You can also use the #1 port on the LNB to get power to the LNB, use the power inserter on it's own coax, the other port on the LNB will run your receiver just fine.

On some receivers when you use the OCS-DP setting the DC output is set to the higher +18 voltage, on a Dsih receiver when it detects the switch in-line (during a switch check) it shuts off the DP power at it's LNB input, there is no need to use the receiver to run the LNB as the DPP44 switch is supplying the DC power for the LNB.

I have never tested this,(I don't know why?) it may work, but if you do use the DPP44 power inserter try the "LNB power off" setting and see if you still get a signal, it should work that way, then you don't have to worry about the receivers power supply running everything.

[Terryl]

I was thinking that maybe it would be better to switch from the Dish 500 Pro PLUS twin lnb to just the Dish 500 Pro twin lnb. I already have a spare DP 500 lnb. This would help in keeping the power requirements lower, right?


This depends on the switch, some will only supply DC power to the selected port, others supply DC power to all LNB's attached, so you must look at the combined current draw and how much current the switch will need.

You must remember that most of these receiver were designed to work with one LNB or at most maybe two LNBs, the DC power supply to the LNB output on most receivers is rated to 500 mA.

Each LNB you add will require DC power to run it, a single output linear LNB will draw around 60 to 100 mA, a dual output LNB of the same type will draw about 150 to 200 mA, all this depending one the manufacture.

So if you use 3 dual LNB's and the switch provides DC power to them all, you will be looking at 600 mA max, and don't forget about the switch, and the voltage loss on the coax, this all adds up quickly.


In my opinion, I would use the DP twin plus, and a DP dual for 129, then run a separate coax from the DPP power inserter to port #1 on the DP Plus LNB, then run a coax from port #2 on the DP plus LNB to your receiver, the DP dual LNB will go to the LNB input port on the DP plus.

This eliminates the need for the external switch, and will supply all the DP power the system will ever need, and it may help your receiver run cooler if it works with the LNB power turned off. (DPP power inserter supplying the power and running the system)

[PRPirate]

Not needed as the OCS-DP setting uses the DP LNB band stacking to provide the "R" and "L" polarity transponders.

Only a standard or legacy LNB needs the +14 and +18 volts to switch between the transponder polarity's.

You can also use the #1 port on the LNB to get power to the LNB, use the power inserter on it's own coax, the other port on the LNB will run your receiver just fine.

On some receivers when you use the OCS-DP setting the DC output is set to the higher +18 voltage, on a Dsih receiver when it detects the switch in-line (during a switch check) it shuts off the DP power at it's LNB input, there is no need to use the receiver to run the LNB as the DPP44 switch is supplying the DC power for the LNB.

I have never tested this,(I don't know why?) it may work, but if you do use the DPP44 power inserter try the "LNB power off" setting and see if you still get a signal, it should work that way, then you don't have to worry about the receivers power supply running everything.

o.k. thanks. Good info.

[PRPirate]

This depends on the switch, some will only supply DC power to the selected port, others supply DC power to all LNB's attached, so you must look at the combined current draw and how much current the switch will need.

You must remember that most of these receiver were designed to work with one LNB or at most maybe two LNBs, the DC power supply to the LNB output on most receivers is rated to 500 mA.

Each LNB you add will require DC power to run it, a single output linear LNB will draw around 60 to 100 mA, a dual output LNB of the same type will draw about 150 to 200 mA, all this depending one the manufacture.

So if you use 3 dual LNB's and the switch provides DC power to them all, you will be looking at 600 mA max, and don't forget about the switch, and the voltage loss on the coax, this all adds up quickly.


In my opinion, I would use the DP twin plus, and a DP dual for 129, then run a separate coax from the DPP power inserter to port #1 on the DP Plus LNB, then run a coax from port #2 on the DP plus LNB to your receiver, the DP dual LNB will go to the LNB input port on the DP plus.

This eliminates the need for the external switch, and will supply all the DP power the system will ever need, and it may help your receiver run cooler if it works with the LNB power turned off. (DPP power inserter supplying the power and running the system)

O.k. I'll try your recommendation.
Today, I noticed about the 129 sat is that the channels on the Horizontals were worse in regards to freezing than the verticals. The channels that did come in on the verticals were almost perfect.
Anyway, I'll wait for the delivery so I can set up. I'll report back after. Thanks a lot. I appreciate all your help.

[PRPirate]

Oh, forget about what I said about the horizontals and verticals. I just checked again and it's seems all stable now. What a pain. Anyway, I'm going to continue with this project. My receiver runs hot.
One more thing, I'm gonna have to either join the cables where the switch was with a coaxial cable joiner or run a new cable. I could also just put the power inserter in place of the switch. What do you think? If I use a joiner, can you recommend one?

[PRPirate]

O.k. so I received everything today. I replaced the directv lnb pointed at 129 with a used DP single lnb. I hooked up the 129 DP single lnb to the external input lnb on the dish pro plus 119/110 dish. I hooked up the coaxial from input 2 on the dish pro plus lnb and joined it with a coaxial cable joiner to the coaxial going to the receiver. I connected the coaxial from input 1 of Dish pro plus lnb to the DP44 power inserter. Turned on the receiver and I'm worse of than before. I choose OCS-DP and lnb 3 but it stays checking network. I scan anyway and just get 17 channels from 12516. Actually, when I look at the tps in the antenna menu I don't get good signal on 12516. The other ones I do but it stays "checking network". Another thing the power inserter doesn't seem to be doing anything. I don't see an increase in signal. I turn off the lnb power from the receiver and I get no extra power (129,119,110). In the power inserter I'm hooked up to the side where it says to switch with a coaxial from input 1 DPP lnb. Wow, I'm so fustrated. What did I do wrong?

[PRPirate]

For those who are curious of what happened. I noticed on a raining day that I totally lost signal on 129. 119/110 was fine. Now I suspected that the dish wasn't pointed the best it could be. What threw me off is that I originally got 99% however I noticed in antenna settings that it just kept saying "checking network" on the horizontal. So, I moved the dish until it ID the sat as 129 for both vertical and horizontal TPs. Again initially, I checked only vertical. So the pixelation and freezing had to do with the dish needing tweaking. Not a power issue. I changed the directv single lnb to a dishpro lnb just to keep consistent. Anyway, thank you for your input. Especially Terryl.