No vertical transponders coming in

[cheapcat]

I posted this in Dreamlink section, but there hasn't been any response. I am hoping someone here can help me since it might not be a receiver-specific question.

Just got my new T5 today. Set it up according to the setup instruction on here. After doing a scan, I realized that I am only getting the channels on the horizontal transponders, none on the vertical ones. Here is my setup:

1000.2 dish with power inserter.

LNB power on
LNB Type: OCS-DP
LNB Frequency: 11.250
LNB 22kHz off
DiSEqC SW1.0: 119-1, 110-2, 129-3
DiSEqC SW 1.1: off
Legacy SW: Off

For the horiz transponders, the S and Qs are all green and around 80%. For the vertical transponders, S and Q are all red, but over 95%.

Used a voltmeter to check the voltage output from the receiver. 18V of H transp. ad 13 for V. So the receiver is good. What else could it be? Any suggestions? Please help! Thanks in advance!

[Terryl]

Your settings look correct for that type of LNB.

Where do you have the power inserter attached?

To the LNB then the receiver?

Or on it's own coax?

Some FTA receivers like the T5 may not like the DC power inserter in-line with it, so you should run a second coax from the receiver to the #2 port of the LNB.

Also the coax used is very important when using DP equipment, the old coax used for some old legacy LNB's does not work too good with DP type LNB's. (D1000.2)

The coax must be rated to 2.5 GHz or swept to 3 GHz, this should be marked on the coax, if your coax is for off air TV or CATV then your going to miss out on 1/2 of your transponders.

The DP LNB's do not use a +13 or +18 volt switching voltage to go from H to V transponders, but uses band stacking to get all the transponders down the coax at once, so you have to use a higher frequency rated coax to do so without problems.

[cheapcat]

The power inserter is on its own coax. So basically, I have two lines coming from the dish/LNB. One goes to the receiver, one goes to the power inserter. Is that correct?

Is it likely that the power inserter is faulty? If so, wouldn't I lose all the transponders?

I never paid attention to the type of coax cables I was using, but will definitely check them when I get home. I have been using this setup for the past 2.5 years with no problems though. It was with a Limesat Air. It recently died, so I am switching to a T5.

[Mavrick]

Do you have the power inserter going into port #1 on the LNB.......... and your receiver on port #2 ?

Try the same scan without the power inserter, if you get the same results that would indicate that maybe your power inserter is indeed faulty.

[cheapcat]

I am not sure which port the inserter is going into, but I will check. Is it critical that it goes into port #1?
If I remove the inserter, will the receiver be fried?


Do you have the power inserter going into port #1 on the LNB.......... and your receiver on port #2 ?

Try the same scan without the power inserter, if you get the same results that would indicate that maybe your power inserter is indeed faulty.

[Mavrick]

I am not sure which port the inserter is going into, but I will check. Is it critical that it goes into port #1?
If I remove the inserter, will the receiver be fried?

Make sure to turn your receiver off from the back switch before you remove the inserter, then try another scan, if you get the same results I would take a close look at your A/C.
Some LNB's will only draw power from port #1, I can't remember if the 1000.2 is one of them but it is a general rule to run your A/C into port 1 of DP LNB's and switches.

[Terryl]

If the power inserter was bad he would not get any signal readings from anything, that LNB needs at least +17 volts DC at 650 mA to run, however trying to test the DC power inserter when disconnected from an LNB or a proper switch will give you a false reading, it has to be under load to get the readings right.

If it was working before the first receiver went poof, then it may be a problem in your new receiver, or the old receiver took the power inserter with it.

The missing transponders are in the higher band on that LNB, try this.

Go to 110W look at TP 12355L, you should have the "Whats on Dish" promo channel, (channel 9598) then go to 119W TP 12457R, this is the "Dish 101" channel, if you can get that one then maybe the receiver is at fault.

[cheapcat]

I removed the power inserter. The results were the same. Still no vertical transponders coming in. Horizontal ones were still quite good. However, after I re-installed the power inserter, I restarted the receiver, everything went away. Now I can't even get the horizontal transponders to come in.

I tried the setup with an old SV8000. It was able to pick up the horizontal transponders, but still not the vertical ones. Then I reconnected DL T5 back to the setup. Did a full factory reset and re installed the factory file and bin file, still nothing. What is going on? Did I fry the box? Or do you think that the power inserter is faulty?

[Terryl]

OK do this.

Go get a 75 ohm 10 watt resistor, plug one end into the "F" connector that says "To Switch" the other end of the resistor will touch the out side of the "F" connector, then using a DVM measure the DC voltage at the end that is plugged into the center of the "F" connector, the other lead of the DVM touches the outside of the "F" connector.

It should read 19 to 22 volts DC, if lower then 16 volts then I would suspect the power inserter.

This is not the correct way to test this, but it's one way to do it without a proper test bed.

Look here for the resistor needed.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/20J75RE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBICyMnDEGwScOUSxvup54R%2f8% 3d

[cheapcat]

I'll stop by Radio shack when I have the time. Meanwhile, I am inclined to change the dish to a non-dishpro dish. I won't need a power inserter with that, correct? What kind of dish can I get? I need to the HD channels on 110 and 119 though.

[Anubis]

I'll stop by Radio shack when I have the time. Meanwhile, I am inclined to change the dish to a non-dishpro dish. I won't need a power inserter with that, correct? What kind of dish can I get? I need to the HD channels on 110 and 119 though.

http://www.satfix.net/forumdisplay.php?763-Dishes-Discussions-and-Pictures;)

[Glatt]

I had this and changed connector on RG6 to fix problem!

[Terryl]

I'll stop by Radio shack when I have the time. Meanwhile, I am inclined to change the dish to a non-dishpro dish. I won't need a power inserter with that, correct? What kind of dish can I get? I need to the HD channels on 110 and 119 though.

This all depends on the LNB's and how many receivers you want to run, a standard 4x1 Diseqc switch and standard LNB's on a good elliptical dish would do the same as your D1000.2 dish and DP LNB.

But when you need to add more recivers you will have to go to a powered switch, this is because all the LNBs will be on at the same time, some 4x1 switches only supply power when the LNB is selected, others will try and power all LNB's at the same time.

Using a standard non DP type LNB will cut back on the DC current needed to run the system, DP LNB's are power hogs and most FTA receivers can't run them all at once, that is why the D1000.2 LNB needs the DC power injector for it to run right.

So look at the spec's when you go shopping for replacement LNB's, check the DC current load, you can use the D1000 dish as there are standard LNB's that will fit that 3 LNB holder on that dish, look for LNB's that have the same type "D" mounting as the DP single LNB, or are a direct drop in for that type of LNB.

Once you get the 3 LNB's then a standard 4x1 Diseqc switch will work, the Diseqc switching will not change in the satellite settings, only the LNB type.


Also I don't think Ratshack will carry that rating of resistor, you will have to order it from that web site.

If you do nt want to order the resistor, a 12 volt car turn signal or tail light bulb will be a substitute, it wont be a 75 ohm load but it will draw the DC current needed to test the power inserter, you will need some alligator clips to do this.

[cheapcat]

I think I am going to keep this currently setup since we definitely need 129 for the few HD channels that we watch all the time. Don't want to go though the troubles of ordering new lnbs and/or dish and realigning everything. I am not very good at it.

Anyway, you were right, Terryl. Radio Shack didn't have the resistor. I stripped open an unused coax and took out the center wire and put it into the "to switch" side on the power inserter. The reading was 21.3. Was that a correct way to do it?

If the power inserter is good, what else can it be?

[cheapcat]

Which connector are you referring to, Glatt? Does that mean I have to check all the cables in the setup? I have 2 75ft cables running from dish to the control box outside of the house. Then buried in walls, maybe another 100 ft put in by the builders. Then a short one from wall in the living room to the receiver box.


I had this and changed connector on RG6 to fix problem!

[Terryl]

I think I am going to keep this currently setup since we definitely need 129 for the few HD channels that we watch all the time. Don't want to go though the troubles of ordering new lnbs and/or dish and realigning everything. I am not very good at it.

Anyway, you were right, Terryl. Radio Shack didn't have the resistor. I stripped open an unused coax and took out the center wire and put it into the "to switch" side on the power inserter. The reading was 21.3. Was that a correct way to do it?

If the power inserter is good, what else can it be?

OK the power inserter does look to be good, it's putting out the correct voltage, but you didn't test it under a load, but that doesn't matter for now.

Check the coax cables outside, look for any rusted center conductors at all connections, be sure to power the receivers down with the switch in back first.

If water has got into the coax then it can cause problems like this, it could be a corroded connector like Glat mentioned, or somewhere a crack in the PVC jacket of the coax has let water in and it just popped up now as a problem.

Also look for a coax staple piecing the PVC jacket or a kink in the coax, and again make sure the coax is rated to 2.5 to 3 GHz, even the stuff put in by your builders, and the jumper from the wall to your receiver, they may have used the wrong stuff.

If it's for CATV then it's the wrong stuff, it might have worked for the other receiver but no two tuners are the same.

You have a 175 foot run of coax, a standard LNB will not work too good on that long of a run, this is why Dish came up with the DP band stacked LNB's, they can work out to 200 feet without problems.

[cheapcat]

Checked all the connections, everything looks good. put everything back and restarted the receiver. Had to load the factory file and bin file a couple of times to get the horizontal transponders back. So I am back to square one.

The two coax cables from the LNBs are both 2.2 Ghz, but one says CATV, one says digital satellite. The CATV one is connected to the power inserter. Is that ok?

Is there any chance that it is the alignment of the dish? There has been some nasty winds and rain. But if the alignment is off, wouldn't the horizontal transponders be all out as well? Terryl, you mentioned that I should look at 12457R for channel 101, I could not get it, because the quality and signal are both 0 (or red in my case) since it is a vertical transponder. I do get 102 though. All the horizontal transponders have quality and signals around 75-90% for 110 and 119. The channels on those transponders all came in nicely.

What can I do next? Swap out all the cables? Get new LNBs? I am at a loss now!

[Terryl]

The one marked for "CATV" will work for the power inserter IF that coax is the only one connected to the #1 port on the LNB.

If you have signals on the "H" transponders for both satellites then the dish alignment is fine.

The coax marked "Digital Satellite" says it's for 2.2 GHz, that may not be good enough as the upper band for the "V" transponders ends at 2.15 GHz, but it may stretch that out a bit.

Check (when the weather permits) that the CATV coax goes to the correct port on the LNB, then the #2 coax marked "Digital Satellite" can go to the #2 port on the LNB and directly to your receiver.

[Mavrick]

I posted this in Dreamlink section, but there hasn't been any response. I am hoping someone here can help me since it might not be a receiver-specific question.

Just got my new T5 today. Set it up according to the setup instruction on here. After doing a scan, I realized that I am only getting the channels on the horizontal transponders, none on the vertical ones. Here is my setup:

1000.2 dish with power inserter.

LNB power on
LNB Type: OCS-DP
LNB Frequency: 11.250
LNB 22kHz off
DiSEqC SW1.0: 119-1, 110-2, 129-3
DiSEqC SW 1.1: off
Legacy SW: Off

For the horiz transponders, the S and Qs are all green and around 80%. For the vertical transponders, S and Q are all red, but over 95%.

Used a voltmeter to check the voltage output from the receiver. 18V of H transp. ad 13 for V. So the receiver is good. What else could it be? Any suggestions? Please help! Thanks in advance!

This may seem like alot of work but if I were you I would take a small tv and the receiver right up to the dish and connect them with a short (known-good) cable, also connect the A/C up at the dish with a short (known-good) cable. If everything works up at the dish then you start working you way backwards to the house, if there is still an issue when connected up at the dish then you know it's not any of your cables and either the LNB or something in your receiver........