My 10' BUD to my 12' Bud (In the beginning)

[risk]

ok guys/gals here is the BUD when i first set eyes on it. . .it was just sitting in the guy's yard and ppl (the kids) where just walkin all over it lol

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P060210_0955.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P060210_0955_02.jpg

i brought it to it's new home and gave it a bath with 2000+PSI of water lol


http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P070210_1738_02.jpg

then got it mending. . .by evening this is what it looked like. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P070210_1738_03.jpg

i had so many places in my head as to where to mount my new toy. . .but this is where i decided mount it. . .on the wall, out of harms ways and if i ever needed to do anything with it (jack, LNBs etc) i can get to them with ease by just goin on thre roof. . .

so a bracket had to be made. . .


http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/Dishbracket1.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishBracket2.jpg

the piece hangin blow the bottom bracket will be cut off. . .

[risk]

i been askin a few weeks back on how to get the BUD on a pole. . .well i also made a tool for it (it's still in it's very early stages), it requires 2 persons. . .but when im finished i should be able to get the dish up and down on my own. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishTool1.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishTool2.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishTool3.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishTool4.jpg

Stay tune. . .i will be goin to collect my 'donor' 10' BUD this evening. . .lets hope the LNB on it is C/KU band LNBs and they still working. . .

[Costactc]

Awesome pics risk, good job on the bud. What did you use to stitch it? I used 20lb fish string.
I hope it isn't too windy at your locale, you might get home one day and your bud is going to be in your neighbours back yard.

[risk]

findin my bud on the ground was what had me a bit worried. . .but then i told myself, if it does happen i will build that part of the house stronger because its goin back there lol. . .

the dish didnt need much mendin. . .the mesh ust slides into slots on the dish. . .but for the tiny holes it did have i used pieces of wire from a piece of 12 gauge wire lol. . .

the funny thing is, the next BUD im goin goin for is perfect. . .the mesh sectino that is, the metal pieces which holds the dish is completely rusted out.

will get some pics of that soon.

[Costactc]

Keep the pics and posts coming risk, fta is alive and kicking here at fix.

[Terryl]

Nice looking Gin pole Risk, great job.

Can I make a suggestion from an old time antenna raiser?

Add a second pulley at the top and a hand wench (with a clutch or reverse gear) at the bottom, this will make things much easier to raise and mount the dish.

Take a look at this drawing.

http://www.satfix.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3558&stc=1&d=1268587668

[risk]

funny you should post this. . .but that is the modification i will be doin with it. ..but thanks for the heads up. . .me and a buddy just came from 'tryin and failin' with the early model. . .and just what you suggested is what we said well will do. . .

great minds think alike lol. . .i have a few more pullys. . .i just need the winch now. . .goin huntin tommorrow for one.


here is a quick pic of it. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/FirstTry1.jpg

[Bigpineguy Retired]

Great Job risk, you guys are making me to start thinking about talking to a few ppl that have these in their yard that no longer use them....


BPG~

[risk]

well you know how 'costactc' made me feel. . .with his 'my arc 2' post. . .

go up to the ppl and ask a question. . .it wont hurt.

[Costactc]

Placed a free ad in a local paper 6 months ago and got over 35 calls or e-mails, got a call last week as well. Found Stan one in the area as well. It doesn't hurt to ask.

[TurboPirate]

It seems yesterday I was helping Risk to get amz on a 3.5 DTV dish and now he is setting up a BUD, wtg Risk, like Costa said, keep the pictures coming so the members see the True FTA world is a live, "A Live" "A Live" sorry went Frankenstein there for a moment. lol

[Bowhunters]

Hey Risk, does a strong gusty wind make your house shake at all with that dish up there?

Great Pic's.

[JCO]

Hey Risk, does a strong gusty wind make your house shake at all with that dish up there?

Great Pic's.

No but the earth moves...:thumbsup:

[Bowhunters]

Hahahaha LOL

[risk]

lol @ the 3 last post. . .well the dish is not up as yet. . i do hope my house dont shale when the time comes around lol. . .i will let you guys know. . .


@

[risk]

It seems yesterday I was helping Risk to get amz on a 3.5 DTV dish and now he is setting up a BUD, wtg Risk, like Costa said, keep the pictures coming so the members see the True FTA world is a live, "A Live" "A Live" sorry went Frankenstein there for a moment. lol

yea. . .just yesterday. . .lol lol BIG thanks to you guy, you never gave up on me not even once. . .

since then i went and set up a guy on amz. . .so the internet schooling im gettin here is payin off. . .

more pics to come. . .


UPDATE: i went out tryin to find a small winch. . .the only ppl who had them, had the really BIG sizes which was an over kill imo. . .2000lbs loads lol and they didnt winch both directions. . .

i will need to order one it seems. . .until then, the dish has to go up, so its "MAN POWER" now lol

[Bowhunters]

Yeah the cheap boat trailer winches only ratchet one way going up (if thats what you looked at) but there are some better ones for about $50 or so that ratchet both ways.

Not sure what your dish weighs, I think my 10ft probably weighed around 250 - 300lbs with the ring, feedhorn, LNB's already mounted.

A boat winch with a steel cable is probably the cheapest way to go that is strong enough to do the job.

[TurboPirate]

Yeah the cheap boat trailer winches only ratchet one way going up (if thats what you looked at) but there are some better ones for about $50 or so that ratchet both ways.

Not sure what your dish weighs, I think my 10ft probably weighed around 250 - 300lbs with the ring, feedhorn, LNB's already mounted.

A boat winch with a steel cable is probably the cheapest way to go that is strong enough to do the job.

Good Idea, the thing is he lives in Caribbean and there is not easy to find a variety of things, just what you see is basically what you'll find in every corner, but like you said its a boat thingy, Risk go to pier maybe a fisherman got an used extra one can sell to you cheap.

[risk]

yea, cant find what you exactly NEED when you NEED it lol lol. . .

i will order one, i see them online for about the same prices you guys quoted. . .20-30usd rachet both ways. . .

TODAY's Update: We (me and three other guys) took down the dish and i took off the LNB and cover. . .

its a Chaparral feed horn, a Norsat LNB with servo motor and Orbitron cover. . .has a bit of corrosion on it, i dont believe it should hurt anything.

a quick google on the LNB and i believe this is what mine is. . .


http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P160310_1815.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P160310_1815_01.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P160310_1815_02.jpg

This is the pic of the LNB (not a very good pic) but on it, it has the temp,gain model number and i guess manufacture date of some sort

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P160310_1819_01.jpg

After veiwin the pics and assuming the LNB is still functional. . .how good and what good is it?

after writin this i remembered thid post. . . http://www.satfix.net/showthread.php?t=18021

[Bowhunters]

Unfortunately IMO it looks from the photo's like its all been laying in mud or submerged in water at some point to me, you might get lucky on the LNB still working but I won't put money on the blue servo motor being any good. The blue servo motor is IMO the weak link in BUD hardware, i've had some that worked for several years and I had one that didn't even make it through one year.

Maybe they had a big flooding rain when it was sitting on the ground.

Once you get it all set up and running and you are trying to get channels, if you find it only gets every other (all odd or all even) numbered channels thats a sign that little blue motor has gone bad.

[risk]

where the dish is i less than a half mile away from the beach. . .and the salt water kills things here if you are not careful.

the history i got about it. . .the dish was brought to its home and within hours they had it on the pole till today when i took it down, it was not bein used for about 5yrs. . .the Von Weise 24" jack i got from it still works (lucky me). . .i hope this works too.

[Bowhunters]

Ahhh, maybe some very strong winds blew water up inside the LNB cover during a bad storm.

My fingers are crossed for you, wishing you luck on everything working.

[Costactc]

Wish you luck as well risk, but don't hold your breath on the lnb.

[risk]

pure manual labour lol lol. . .we lift and haul the dish on my roof. . .then we lifted it on the pole. . .it endded here for tonight, i will take and post pics 2morra, the sun had gone and since December my buddy has not brought back my digi cam so all my pics so far has be taken by my phone lol. . .

house aint shakin. . .yet. . .so far so good lol lol. . .everyone is tellin me that the bracket is good nuff. . .i do hope so lol

should nkow by 2morra if the LNB is shot or not. . .when i connect it to the receiver i should get a good signal. . .

[risk]

early morning pics for the guys. . .dont worry about the elevation, nothing has been set as yet including the jack. . .been doin alot of reading on setting up the polar mount type dishes. . .i believe i have all my info and angles/degrees for my location. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishUp1.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishUp2.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/DishUp3.jpg

[Bowhunters]

Nice pic's.

If the previous owner is nearby and nobody messed with polar mount elevation then it should still be dead on, may he can also tell you what satellite he was on the last time he used it to give you a ballpark (with the dish mover retracted most way) at its last shutdown it was obviously aimed at a westerly sat.

[Costactc]

When I put my 10' bud up lasr november, it was on the arc. Slight elevation of the dish increased signal quality by almost 25%. Still got a bit of adjustment to do but I'm in and around 90% on all c band sats on the west side.

[risk]

@ Bowhunter - i believe the angles on the dish 'should' be good, but i just wanted to know ALL about it, so im educating myself lol lol. . .

the dish came from one person and the jack from my other donor dish. . .but i was messing with the jack on my floor so its startin all from start. . .i also deleted ALL the sats out of the 4dtv receiver. . .so that i will have the joy of finding them on my own. . .

well its off to the outside to make things happen. . .

[Bowhunters]

I've tweaked the elevation on mine also Costactc, in the winter when we got a big snow the weight of snow building up on my dish would pull it down just enough that I lost a lot of signal strength.

I tweaked the elevation up about 1/2" higher on the polar mount and that fixed it to where having some snow built up on the dish doesn't affect the reception any more.

Somehow I doubt Risk will have to worry about snow building up on it though. LOL



Sorry Risk, I didn't know the motor came from someone else, I assumed it came with the dish.

You are doing it right though, wiping the receivers memory and doing everything on the dish from scratch is the best way to learn.

[Costactc]

Good luck risk and keep up those awesome pics. BH, by accident I noticed the one bolt attaching the dish to the polar mount was so loose I'm surprised it didn't come out altogether. Slight raising and tightening and voila, increased quality. Gonna fiddle a bit more.

[Bowhunters]

Hahahaha - Back when I first put mine up I did the same thing.

I had done some tweaking and then a week or so later I was just sitting watching tv thinking how good the picture looked and then it dawned on me that i'd never tightened the bolts on the pivot mount that slides over the pole luckily we hadn't had any strong winds or storms that could have knocked it off alignment.

I also learned it pays to put alignment marks on the elevation and pivot pole mount once you have everything set with a colored felt marker, that way the 'good settings' will always be marked even if you have a storm move the dish or you move it for a repair it will be easy to put it right back in alignment. I learned that one the hard way.

[Costactc]

Your lucky the dish didn't end up in your neighbours back yard- too funny, the bolts for the pole!!!!!:laughat:

[Bowhunters]

It would take a tornado to do that, and if one of those hits me the dish will be the least of my issues. LOL

[risk]

thanks for the support guys. . .i will keep the pics comin. . .

well this evenin was not as productive as i had planned, but never the less im gettin there. . .

i first hooked up the jack to the receiver so i can push the dish to my south sat but on doin that i was also checkin on weather the jack would need spacers or not and. . .it does, the jack only came out about 4-5" and its there touching polar mount. . .also what i notice was at my full relax position the dish elevations was really high so that means i would have to move the mount on the jack. . .well on movin the mount bolts which where on there for 5yrs+ the heads of 4 (6 in all) of them broke off lol lol

so i have 2morras list. . .im also changin the bolts and nut which hold the mount on the pole and the ones for the jack. . .

so all i did this evening was get the wires ready so 2morra i dont have to deal with them. . .

[risk]

UPDATE: fresh bolts in. . .i put the jack bracket about an inch or half inch from the end and still with it in its lowest position i believe its still a bit higher than my 7.5 degree evelavation for G1. . .

i finally got to push the dish up to what i assume was my south position and chked the polar mount and the degree on read of the dish. . .its all good. . .

i will find out 2morra if the LNB is good or not, i have not connected this as yet.


@ costactc - when you do your full travel and the jack is fully extended. do you have any trouble with it pullin back in the dish?

why i ask, is because i was pushin it to see if it would still rub and i got around 55.5w and i was a bit scared lol lol

the jack at this point was now passin the vertical mark. . .

[Costactc]

When starting out, push your jack full east and positioner will stop at Eastern limit, before setting western limit make sure to be outside to see how far it will go, don't push it to the extreme.
To answer your question, yes I have flipped my actuator 2 times, giving me a heart attack both times. When it happens, I have my son pulling the dish back east while i command the positioner east. That is why my c band arc only goes to 105w- my other dish tracks the rest of the arc.

[risk]

i didnt really set the limits, i wanted to do that on the go. . .but technically it has a limit of about 55w startin from 133w (this is only for now).

everything seems to be set correctly, the LNB is working :D i have the LNB cable run to the VS ultra while all the other cables are on the 4dtv (the dish mover)

i know there is a sat very close to where i have the dish set (133w), doin a blind scan with the VS and the quality moves just a bit on a few TPs. . .

i need to find out if the servo is still workin now. . .tryin pick up the sat with the 4dtv receiver was a bit of a lost cause.

[Costactc]

Usually you can hear the servo flip if your outside when somebody changes from a hor tp to a vert or vicaversa.

[risk]

i will try that this evenin when the roof is a bit cooler. . .in the mean time im just playin around with it. . .one thing i have to tip my hat off to the 4dtv receiver for is that i can be on the roof with the remote and still operate the dish/receiver from up there. . .

[Bowhunters]

On the 133w you are on -

C-Band Analog that are Free you should get on your 4DTV receiver -

Channel 5 - Art Showcase
Channel 11 - EWTN
Channel 12 - NBC Shop
Channel 17 - Inspirational


Mpeg -

H-3720 1430 5/6 29.270
H-3817 1333 3/4 03.000 8000 8001 CLASSIC ARTS SHOWCASE
H-4000 1150 7/8 29.270
H-4120 1030 3/4 30.000
V-3780 1370 5/6 27.800
V-3860 1290 7/8 29.270
V-4020 1130 7/8 29.270


There are a crap load of the subscription Ch on 4DTV up in the higher section of channels (HBO, Starz, etc.) and those will all say 'subscription required' (Ch 100 and up) on that satellite.

[risk]

ok, im at a slight hault. . .the servo motor is not working. . .

also, i didnt set the LNBF when i installed it on my dish.

the small piece of wire inside the LNB is in the 11 o'clock position if viewed from the front (in front of the dish)

i have not idea right now if its stuck in a horizontal or vertical position. . .

i still didnt get the dish set, it may just have been because of the servo or the fact the LNBf was not set. i dont know.

the jack keeps a bit to much noise when i push the dish pass the direction of my most south sat. . .i only got the jack out about 19" then i stopped.

if i need to buy a jack, i will look into a 36" one time :)

[Bowhunters]

I would take the blue servo motor off and see if you can turn it manually, it has little plastic gears inside so you should be able to hear them turning the little servo motor.

Maybe try a little 9v radio battery to see if you can get the servo to turn, if not it needs replaced.

The piece with the thick metal wire inside the feedhorn may also be locked up with dirt or sand keeping the blue servo from turning it, that piece in the feedhorn should be very free and easy to move and it doesn't need any lube but you can use WD-40 or something like that to clean it to losen it up if needed.

If the dish mover is making a lot of noise its probably dry inside, rain water will get inside and wash away the factory lube from the screwjack or ballscrew inside the tube and it will start to rust inside so you probably need to relube it once a year after the rainy season (i'm guessing you have one).

Maybe see if you can fully extend it and then shoot some WD-40 or Breakfree type cleaner lube inside from where the upper piece comes out and see if it doesn't quiet down a bit, I wouldn't use a grease as it will attract dirt and sand.

A dish mover boot will keep rain from washing the lube out of the mover and that will help keep it from rusting inside. - www .skyvision.com/store/mi1000003.html

[risk]

i will take it off 2morra and have a crack at it.

i will also try a lub spray like WD-40 2morra. . .i used some silicone spray on it today. . .sounded like it was keepin a bit less noise. . .i will take off the jack soon, so i will take off the bearing at the end and spray the lub spary in there. . .

[JCO]

Risk WD 40 is a good cleaner but lousy lube.. Use the WD to clean it out but as for lube graphite or a good grease is much better.. In terms of spray stuff I find Gig a loo better as a universal cleaner lube..

[Gizz-Moes]

Great post “risk” and thank’s for the photos.

Always glad to see someone else exploring the true meaning of “free to air”, and setting up their own BUD system.

You did a great job at re-building a dish I would have probably passed on, nice job.

Looks like you got a good bunch of members helping out.
I have setup many BUD systems (50+) and my only concern is your mounting option.
If this is your only option it must do, but wall and roof mounts are never recommended for a 10" BUD.
Even the mesh dish catches a lot of wind force in surprisingly little wind. Would hate to see anyone hurt, or your wall pulled out over TV.
This is why most 10 footers are installed in ground with heavy concrete footing.

Good luck on your project, work safe.
Gizz

[risk]

Great post “risk” and thank’s for the photos.

Always glad to see someone else exploring the true meaning of “free to air”, and setting up their own BUD system.

You did a great job at re-building a dish I would have probably passed on, nice job.

Looks like you got a good bunch of members helping out.
I have setup many BUD systems (50+) and my only concern is your mounting option.
If this is your only option it must do, but wall and roof mounts are never recommended for a 10" BUD.
Even the mesh dish catches a lot of wind force in surprisingly little wind. Would hate to see anyone hurt, or your wall pulled out over TV.
This is why most 10 footers are installed in ground with heavy concrete footing.

Good luck on your project, work safe.
Gizz

well it was the only option for if i needed to do anything with the dish (like right now lol) im not to worried about it, because like i said if it falls i will make it stornger and set it back up there. . .

here in the caribbean wall houses are built out of concrete and concrete blocks. . .

here is one of the other ppl here who has a wall mounted BUD. . .12' and way higher that me.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/Wallmounteddish.jpg

[risk]

ok guys, i came home this evenin with ALL intentions of gettin to the bottom of the servo motor problem. . .

i took it off and had a very short go at tryin to unscrew the 4 screws . . .but based from what guys here and from other forums and online stores say about the servo motors goin bad i just. . .yall ready for this?!?! i broke it off lol lol lol. . .to only find that the piece it goes on to is what was stuck, some WD-40 and it was loose in now time. . .servo motor still working lol lol. . .


here is my question to you guys who changed these before. . .
is there a right way and wrong way of installin these?
in these two pics i took of it, i only turn the lnb, NOT flip it, so what is at the bottom reminds at the bottom.

im also assuming that its in a 'vertical' position.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P220310_1825.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P220310_1824_01.jpg

then my next question is, installin it on the dish. . .

[Gizz-Moes]

Sorry for the link, it is much easier to read than have me try to explain.
One of the better sites for help in setting up a BUD is “Geo-Orbit”, it covers all aspects of a typical BUD installation.
http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp2.html

The feed horn assembly will be installed with server motor up, and LNB down.
When mounting the scalar plate pay close attention to the focal point & distance.
Both of these are explained on the Geo-Orbit site.

Gizz

[Bowhunters]

Gizz-Moes is correct in that the feed horn needs to be positioned so the blue servo is verticle 'up/down', on the servo's cap there should be arrows on each end and it should say < Polar Axis > to indicate that with the dish facing south the arrows on the servo cap should be pointing North/South.

Looks like I guessed right that the wire switching piece might be stuck inside the feedhorn keeping the motor from turning it, it needs to be very loose, the servo motors aren't the strongest in the world so you need to clean that wire pivot piece until you can flip it around easily with no resistance or drag before you put the servo back on. If you can hear or feel any roughness or stickyness it still has sand or debris and needs more cleaning.

I assume you intend to glue the servo back on since you snapped it off but I have my doubts that will work at all or not for long, I would get a new one. A new one should come with a rubber seal to help keep sand and water out of the servo motor and that wire pivot fitting.

I've never bought from these guys but they are the cheapest price i've seen. - www .thesatelliteshop.net/chaparral-c-band-servo-motor-p-117.html?m1track=googlebase&utm_campaign=export_fe ed&utm_medium=Google+Base&utm_source=googlebase&la nguage=en

[risk]

Gizz-Moes is correct in that the feed horn needs to be positioned so the blue servo is verticle 'up/down', on the servo's cap there should be arrows on each end and it should say < Polar Axis > to indicate that with the dish facing south the arrows on the servo cap should be pointing North/South.

Looks like I guessed right that the wire switching piece might be stuck inside the feedhorn keeping the motor from turning it, it needs to be very loose, the servo motors aren't the strongest in the world so you need to clean that wire pivot piece until you can flip it around easily with no resistance or drag before you put the servo back on. If you can hear or feel any roughness or stickyness it still has sand or debris and needs more cleaning.

I assume you intend to glue the servo back on since you snapped it off but I have my doubts that will work at all or not for long, I would get a new one. A new one should come with a rubber seal to help keep sand and water out of the servo motor and that wire pivot fitting.

I've never bought from these guys but they are the cheapest price i've seen. - www .thesatelliteshop.net/chaparral-c-band-servo-motor-p-117.html?m1track=googlebase&utm_campaign=export_fe ed&utm_medium=Google+Base&utm_source=googlebase&la nguage=en


Its moving very smoothly, yea I understand about installling the servo, I wanted to know if it made a difference if the piece is vertical or horizontal. I don't think its a problem because while I had it workin yesterday I could get it rotate almost a full 360 degrees via the receiver. Bbut this north/south I'm not seein on anything,

[Bowhunters]

Its moving very smoothly, yea I understand about installling the servo, I wanted to know if it made a difference if the piece is vertical or horizontal. I don't think its a problem because while I had it workin yesterday I could get it rotate almost a full 360 degrees via the receiver. Bbut this north/south I'm not seein on anything,


No it won't really matter where the wire is pointing when you put the servo on top of the feedhorn.

First thing you need to get the Dish (East and West Travel Limit) set into memory on the receiver, since you cleared memory that travel limit needs reset before you can start locating and locking in satellites.

Once you find a satellite like the one you mentioned in a previous post at 133w Galaxy15/G1 and then you do an (Autopeak) to lock in the satellite, the receiver will tell the mover to bump the Dish back and forth slightly and it will also switch that wire around automatically where it needs to be for that satellite for Vert or Horiz skew until the sat's signal is at its highest. If you go to that satellite I would advise going to Ch5 (Arts Entertainment) is on 24/7 a week and it will be easy to lock onto.

Maybe your servo doesn't have this on top, I have bought all of mine over the years from Skyvision and the ones they sell have this 'Polar Axis' on the cap.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/Bowhunter70/006.jpg

[risk]

mine dont have that on the top, i thought i was missin something lol

but everything is back together and working GREAT. . .well the LNB that is. . .i took down the jack lol lol

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1710.jpg

[risk]

i know i keep sayin this, but you guys must forgive my poor quality cell phone pics. . . seems like my buddy didnt borrow my camera, he stole it.

i decided to rip apart the damn jack today. . .i was gonna make a new topic on rebuildin a Von Weise jack, if you guys (mods) feel it can be of more help bein in another topic instead of bein hinden in here feel free to move it.

not a step by step, i had to be removin my gloves all the time and day light was not more.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1820_01.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1823.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1828.jpg

LOOK AT ALL THAT CRAP. . .and this is the small potion lol

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1824.jpg

the nut/screw just popped right out after i broke this tab off lol

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1844.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1828_01.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_1843.jpg


now here is what im gonna do with this unit. . .

with the jack extended its 24" i still have another 5" inside (this made me feel better now knowin that when i extend it i wont just *pop* out lol).

i will be usin a longer nut than what was in there just for my piece of mind.

the play i was gettin when fully extended i believe can be minimize by utilizing this 5" of reminding shaft, they (the makers) has a teflon bushing at the end which is about 12mm wide.

in the mean time, i wanna be scanning, so im thinkin of buyin another jack. . .some may say why bother with this old jack, but i just like the whole idea of makin something better. . .


seein how this jack is made up, i beleive i can modify it to be a anything over a 24". . .

[Bowhunters]

I think a step by step of the actual internals replacement with pics would be great and should be made a sticky for the BUD section.

I'm on my second dish mover/jack now since I put up my BUD some years ago and the replacement price for mine is right at $300 and thats pretty crazy high IMO and I might just try a rebuild on mine if it ever goes bad.

I put a rubber boot on my mover when I installed it and it looks like its still in great shape as the boot is keeping water, ice and snow out of it.

[risk]

ok, its just about an hour later and i got the other jack. . .lol lol

another Von Weise (24"), its used but the old guy didnt use it for very long, and he only changed it because he is finished with the 8' solid and gone to an 12' solid and poor 'Von' couldnt get it moved without a bit of help. . .

i purposely took a bad pic with to show the difference. . .lol

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P230310_2115.jpg

he also has a Chaparral feedhorn with both norsat c/ku lnbs on there. . .he said its like the top of the line stuff, i will call him 2morra and get the info on the LNBs before i take it off his hands. . .that also looks NEW!!!

[risk]

i believe i will figure it out, but i dont wanna waste to much time 2morra on the jack. . .


How do i set the internal limit? Von Weise 24"
it set kindda backward imo. . .i can motor it till i pops out but i cant send it completely in. . .and i NEED i completely in.

its about 2" out then it stops.


UPDATE: everything has been set. . .made some small turns of the white wheel next to the limit switches. . .

[Costactc]

You mention Norsat c/ku lnbs, top of the line and very pricey.

[risk]

You mention Norsat c/ku lnbs, top of the line and very pricey.

Yup they are, I called him he said the ku is model is 4106A and the c band is 8115 as I said before its comin with the chaparral feed horn and servo all for a couple bills. . .

How does that sound?

My other questions are, lookin at the ku lnb this should be able to give me linear like amz and circular like dn? I know he has dn, but I'm not sure if he ever really did any scannin. The other question is, would this be able to do circular c band? If no. What is the difference?

[Costactc]

Nice lnbs, there each retailing around $200. If you want c band circular you must buy the wideband corotor or you will not pick up circular channels. The answer to your other question is no, the ku band lnb is only linear, you'll need to somehow attach an lnb for ku circular onto your feed somehow.

[risk]

Nice lnbs, there each retailing around $200. If you want c band circular you must buy the wideband corotor or you will not pick up circular channels. The answer to your other question is no, the ku band lnb is only linear, you'll need to somehow attach an lnb for ku circular onto your feed somehow.

im thinkin to buy it. . .i cant really loose with it, because when i do get a wide band i will just swap the LNBs over. . .

was tryin to find some info on the wide bands, "whats makes a wide band and wide band?"

maybe you 'costactc' can ansswer this.

[andyb2]

Costa,can he not do what I do if circular is needed for ku and put a divider in the neck of the lnb or is it not possible on those type?

Your doin a great job risk.I'm following this very closely as I may have found a 6' that I can get and its been sittin for along time and may need some work.

[risk]

ok, i just wanted everyone to know who is reading this that tonight i finally got the quality to rise. . .YES rise, which means im on to something. . .was bumpin my dish around thw 61w mark. . .then played with what i thought 58w bump usin costactc post 'my arc 2' i found the channel listin. . .seems to be 55.5w. . .

[andyb2]

Just a big guessing game out there sometimes risk lol.

[Bowhunters]

Once you get a satellite autopeaked and set into memory, if you find the signal strength isn't very strong you may need to try loosening the feedhorn slightly and moving it in and out (towards and away) from the dish to get the correct (Focal Depth) so that more of the reflected signal will go into the feedhorn and then into the LNB.

There is a formula to figure that out mathmatically based on the dish width and depth but if you have someone to watch the signal strength indicator on your 4DTV receiver displayed on your tv while you try moving it in and out slowly to find the sweetspot will work, you can also look on the feedhorn where the previous owner had the screws tightened down as that will be close.

Having the focal depth set correctly will make a huge difference in signal strength.

Another thing is to check and see if the dish itself is elevated too high or too low, while someone is watching that same signal strength meter on the tv you can push up for 15-30seconds and then pull down on the bottom edge of the dish to see if the signal strength goes up while lifting or pulling down on the dish. Adjust accordingly.

[risk]

the funny thign is, i cant get anthing on the 4dtv receiver. . .i have the cable from the lnb plugged into the VS ultra, when i get a picture that can be watched and i plug the cable back into the 4d i get nothing.

[Bowhunters]

You are really doing it backwards from what you should do, just because you see a signal on the FTA doesn't automatically mean the 4DTV can view it and visa versa.

You need to go ahead and first just use the 4DTV and dish mover and find and autopeak and lock in all the satellites on your arc that you can find first, then next after you have saved all the sats then you can start using the FTA receiver on each of those locked in satellites to find any FTA broadcasts.

You still need to use the 4DTV receiver to move the dish to a sat, then shut it down and then start your FTA (Viewsat Ultra) and let it do a search.

Since you are only 'C-Band LNB' you need to do a coax pass through on the two receivers, plug the LNB coax cable into your Viewsat Ultra marked LNB or IF input, you should see a LNB or IF output just below the input run a coax jumper to your LNB input on your 4DTV receiver, so you can find sats with the 4DTV receiver and watch 4DTV channels as it will 'pass through' the FTA receiver and that way you won't need to constantly disconnect and move the coax cable back and forth.

So you need to run something like -

LNB________coax_____> FTA Receiver __ coax____> 4DTV _______> Television


Or go here and look at the first drawing with C-Band

www. skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf


As I said before, if you are going to move the dish to a sat and then watch FTA you should shut off the 4DTV receiver before you power up the FTA receiver, both the FTA and the 4DTV send voltages to the LNB through the coax, LNB's needs a small amount of voltage to amplify the sat signal and send it through the coax.

You don't want to run power on both recievers at the same time, I don't know if it would damage the LNB but its best just to be on the safe side.

[TurboPirate]

You are really doing it backwards from what you should do, just because you see a signal on the FTA doesn't automatically mean the 4DTV can view it and visa versa.

You need to go ahead and first just use the 4DTV and dish mover and find and autopeak and lock in all the satellites on your arc that you can find first, then next after you have saved all the sats then you can start using the FTA receiver on each of those locked in satellites to find any FTA broadcasts.

You still need to use the 4DTV receiver to move the dish to a sat, then shut it down and then start your FTA (Viewsat Ultra) and let it do a search.

Since you are only 'C-Band LNB' you need to do a coax pass through on the two receivers, plug the LNB coax cable into your Viewsat Ultra marked LNB or IF input, you should see a LNB or IF output just below the input run a coax jumper to your LNB input on your 4DTV receiver, so you can find sats with the 4DTV receiver and watch 4DTV channels as it will 'pass through' the FTA receiver and that way you won't need to constantly disconnect and move the coax cable back and forth.

So you need to run something like -

LNB________coax_____> FTA Receiver __ coax____> 4DTV _______> Television


Or go here and look at the first drawing with C-Band

www. skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf


As I said before, if you are going to move the dish to a sat and then watch FTA you should shut off the 4DTV receiver before you power up the FTA receiver, both the FTA and the 4DTV send voltages to the LNB through the coax, LNB's needs a small amount of voltage to amplify the sat signal and send it through the coax.

You don't want to run power on both recievers at the same time, I don't know if it would damage the LNB but its best just to be on the safe side.

Link took me to blank page.........................................

[risk]

You still need to use the 4DTV receiver to move the dish to a sat, then shut it down and then start your FTA (Viewsat Ultra) and let it do a search.

Since you are only 'C-Band LNB' you need to do a coax pass through on the two receivers, plug the LNB coax cable into your Viewsat Ultra marked LNB or IF input, you should see a LNB or IF output just below the input run a coax jumper to your LNB input on your 4DTV receiver, so you can find sats with the 4DTV receiver and watch 4DTV channels as it will 'pass through' the FTA receiver and that way you won't need to constantly disconnect and move the coax cable back and forth.
So you need to run something like -

LNB________coax_____> FTA Receiver __ coax____> 4DTV _______> Television


Or go here and look at the first drawing with C-Band

www. skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf



this i was thinkin about, but what stopped me was that i didnt know if both receivers will be sendin power to the LNB. . .

so i guess with the pass through the VS will stop the power from the 4d gettin to the lnb?

ps: yea i know it sounds a bit backwards, but with the stuff bein so old that im usin i just wanted to get on the right track first and the VS is a bit easier to use right now that the 4d.

[Bowhunters]

Link took me to blank page.........................................


I put some blank spaces after the www. and the rest of the link because when I have posted full active links in the past it was made inactive by a moderator here.

So if you take out those open spaces after www. then it will work.

www. skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf


RISK - I advised setting up the 4DTV first because IMO that really is the best way to do it and in the long run will be the easiest, once you get all the sats loaded in the 4DTV then it will be easier to go to a sat you select instead of searching and not really knowing which sat you are on and then you can go FTA for that specific satellite, some FTA on sats is C-Band that you will be able to watch and some is KU Band that you cannot watch because you don't have a KU LNB on the dish.

Hopefully the previous owner had the 4DTV receivers manual to give you, if not you can find them in pdf on the internet.

If you have any questions on setting up your 4DTV including the steps for setting limits and finding sats then fire away.

[risk]

i must say, thanks to the guys so far. . .

i will head out to the roof now and see if i can lock in 58w or 61w, since these are closest to bein my most south sats. . .i will mark the pole where it is now. . .

i read what you said and i have run the complete system like what you mensioned. thanks

i hav already set my limits, both the jack and the receiver limits, i NEED to cut a small piece out of the dish bracket because when the dish is on its way down from about 50w headin toward to lower numbers the jack (internal piece) is touching.

im also goin to buy the c/ku LNBs from the guy tonight.

[Gizz-Moes]

As said, peak your dish on all satellites using the 4DTV unit first, once this is done add the FTA receiver.

If setup correctly both units can be powered at the same time.
I set up many according to the diagrams posted below with zero problems, be sure to use only DC-Pass or Power-Pass splitters.

I thought I posted these diagrams here before but can’t seem to find them, sorry if there already posted.

Gizz

[TurboPirate]

I put some blank spaces after the www. and the rest of the link because when I have posted full active links in the past it was made inactive by a moderator here.

So if you take out those open spaces after www. then it will work.

www. skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf


RISK - I advised setting up the 4DTV first because IMO that really is the best way to do it and in the long run will be the easiest, once you get all the sats loaded in the 4DTV then it will be easier to go to a sat you select instead of searching and not really knowing which sat you are on and then you can go FTA for that specific satellite, some FTA on sats is C-Band that you will be able to watch and some is KU Band that you cannot watch because you don't have a KU LNB on the dish.

Hopefully the previous owner had the 4DTV receivers manual to give you, if not you can find them in pdf on the internet.

If you have any questions on setting up your 4DTV including the steps for setting limits and finding sats then fire away.

I notice the space and fix it but it leads me to blank page, the best way to have a dead link is replacing the http for hxxp or boxed it with code plus /code inside [] or simply used the # symbol in the toold below the undo button....................

[andyb2]

Might be easier to show how it looks with code tags in

{CODE]www.skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf[/CODE]

Replace the { with a [ and you get


www.skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Pansat_3500S.pdf

Or go to advanced and highlite the link then select the pound key (#) and it automatic

[risk]

As said, peak your dish on all satellites using the 4DTV unit first, once this is done add the FTA receiver.

If setup correctly both units can be powered at the same time.
I set up many according to the diagrams posted below with zero problems, be sure to use only DC-Pass or Power-Pass splitters.

I thought I posted these diagrams here before but can’t seem to find them, sorry if there already posted.

Gizz

so you are sayin dont run it like what the other member said?
because this is how i have it now. . .

when you guys say 'peak' do you mean the option in the 4d which says 'peak' or you mean get the highest signal?

whats funny or should i say puzzlin is that i found 2 sats. . .i ID them by the TP but the 4d never shows them. . .but yet i can watch whats there from the VS.

another learnin curve. . .

[risk]

ok, i got the LNBs todays. . .tonight. . .just now lol

Norsat 8115 c band lnb and norsat 4106A ku band lnb with the chaparral feedhorn and servo. . .

@ costactc - can you take a pic of your wideband if possible? i would love to see the difference.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P250310_2039.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P250310_2040.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P250310_2041.jpg

[Gizz-Moes]

so you are sayin dont run it like what the other member said?
because this is how i have it now. . .

when you guys say 'peak' do you mean the option in the 4d which says 'peak' or you mean get the highest signal?

whats funny or should i say puzzlin is that i found 2 sats. . .i ID them by the TP but the 4d never shows them. . .but yet i can watch whats there from the VS.

another learnin curve. . .





The diagram on the second page of the link “bowhunters” provided is basically the same as mine.
It uses a pair of DC-Pass splitters, one for C-band another for Ku, and a DiSEqC switch.
This is what you need for your C-band/Ku setup!!

The first page of the link shows a C-band only setup using the “loop-through” feature on the FTA receiver.
This dose work but not as reliable as the splitter option. When using this option only one of the units can be powered up at the same time.

I just don’t trust the “loop-through” have heard of boards fried so I just don’t use it.

Sorry, “peak” means obtain the best signal possible

Gizz

[Bowhunters]

I thought Risk only had a BUD dish with a C-Band LNB and thats why I suggested the pass through setup, its simpler because you run the LNB coax to the FTA and then another coax jumper from that FTA receiver to the 4DTV and you don't need to use any splitters.

[risk]

I thought Risk only had a BUD dish with a C-Band LNB and thats why I suggested the pass through setup, its simpler because you run the LNB coax to the FTA and then another coax jumper from that FTA receiver to the 4DTV and you don't need to use any splitters.

yes, when you told me about this, this is how i ran it. . .i only got the c/ku lnb lastnight. . .how about i run the the new c band lnb the way how i currently i hav it and the ku i send straight to the 4dtv or visa versa?


so im guessin with this new one i will need the spliters etc.

[risk]

How lucky can I get? I mailed the pics I posted here to a guy who has a sat store that I was goin to buy the wideband from later and he said I'm all set, what I hav is the wideband. . .I'm just waitin to hear from costactc. . .

[Costactc]

Looking for me risk? What can I do for you? Good to know you have the wideband corotor, save you lots of $$$$.

[risk]

Looking for me risk? What can I do for you? Good to know you have the wideband corotor, save you lots of $$$$.

Lol man I was lookin for ya, so its been confirmed again. . .its a wide band.

Since I didn't cut the trees down as yet. Can it try settin up my arc from my most south down to like 11w?

[Costactc]

You mean from East, of course you can but what lnb are you going to use?

[risk]

You mean from East, of course you can but what lnb are you going to use?

i was hopin one of them lol. . .

seems im in the foot print for 11w (elevation 32 degrees) with c band, 8w (29 degrees) with ku band or 5w (26 degrees) c band or 1w (22 degrees) c band.

so what the best choice?

[Costactc]

I would start with a very strong c band sat like NSS10 at 37.5w just to get your bearings. Metro tv comes in at 99% quality. Don't go for 11w yet. If your going to try ku band as well I would suggest Telstar12 at 15w, strong tp there as well.

[risk]

I would start with a very strong c band sat like NSS10 at 37.5w just to get your bearings. Metro tv comes in at 99% quality. Don't go for 11w yet. If your going to try ku band as well I would suggest Telstar12 at 15w, strong tp there as well.

based on hxxp://www.satbeams.com im in a better c band foot print with 40.5w but the ku at 15w is nice.

also remember im tryin to set up my arc so this is why i was sayin my top 61w or 58w to my low either 133w or 15w

[Costactc]

40.5 is a very strong sat as well, it's circular so you can test out your wideband corotor. I only suggested 37.5 because once you get that you will know where you are pointing and the signal from Metro tv is really strong.
After 37.5, I would manually go down the arc until your actuator stops- your east limit and then begin your arc.

[risk]

well i took off the c band lnb this morning. . .

only have two problems (small)

the small bolt on the wideband which adjust the f/D is stuck and while i was extendin the jack to see how much of the bracket i need to cut off (the jack was touchin when extending) the jack started to slip out of its mount. . .again. . .it didnt this the first time when i was takin the jack to its limit and it locked on the mount and now today while i was movin the dish from the east to west it started to walk out. . .not touchin anything this time.

[Costactc]

Keep us updated risk, I'd like to compare signal quality on the Eastern sats once you get the bud arced.

[TurboPirate]

Keep us updated risk, I'd like to compare signal quality on the Eastern sats once you get the bud arced.

Now this is True FTA hobby..............

[Costactc]

True fta is alive Turbo, can't wait till you get your bud setup and we can all compare channels on all sats.

[risk]

ok, i made a bit of progress. .

i replaced the hex key bolt with a normal bolt.

my focal distance is 50" and my f/D ratio is .42 (pretty shallow, nice)

i need to find an easy way to center the scalar ring (laser pen or something). . .so not mountin the wideband till this is correct. . .maybe 2morra hopefully

i took the dish for a spin and "Mr V. Weise" seems to not want to do what i tell him to do. . .

with jack out 19-20", the dish approched a point where the jack started touchin the mount again so i TRIED to wheel it back in and it wont budge, i had to help it by pullin up on the dish.

does anyone else has this problem with there dish/jack when they fully extend and then tryin to pull the dish back it is restin spot?


you guys where tellin me a few pages back on how to install the lnb and servo. . . now im understandin a bit more, the information stated can be a bit misleading. . .

i think it was said to have the sevo up and lnb down. . .well i did this and it still worked for me but from re-reading other sites etc i should have mounted it on its side when lookin at it while installed on the dish while its at rest (jack fully in, because this is the only for me to install it)

but i believe i have to line up the servo with the N/S line havin my servo closer to noth and the lnb closer to south so that when i my dish is at its peak the servo is at 12 o'clock viewin from south.

[risk]

RISK - I advised setting up the 4DTV first because IMO that really is the best way to do it and in the long run will be the easiest, once you get all the sats loaded in the 4DTV then it will be easier to go to a sat you select instead of searching and not really knowing which sat you are on and then you can go FTA for that specific satellite, some FTA on sats is C-Band that you will be able to watch and some is KU Band that you cannot watch because you don't have a KU LNB on the dish.

Hopefully the previous owner had the 4DTV receivers manual to give you, if not you can find them in pdf on the internet.

If you have any questions on setting up your 4DTV including the steps for setting limits and finding sats then fire away.

yea i got the booklet with the receiver, in very good condition too i must say.

my question to you and anyone else who can answer: finding sats - when i find the sat 61w like what i did how do i know for sure the next sat 'goin east' is 58w?

i also find that when i try programming sats and i select one from the list and have the jack workin it goes out and stops, then goes again all with my finger still on the button. why does it do this?

[Costactc]

Have alook at my channel list in the thread my arc and take it one sat at a time- any channels up on Amazonas for you?

[risk]

didnt get much time to play with amz, but on the ku side there is the guide. . .55.5w was what i got.

but if im try to get my arc how do i do this startin from 58w/61w to G0 (i believe this i can get) if i hav to do it one sat at a time?

[Costactc]

Lots of good Spanish and Portuguese channels on that sat. When the NFL season is on I watch games on XHTVL Canale 9:

3613 V SR 3797

[Bowhunters]

yea i got the booklet with the receiver, in very good condition too i must say.

my question to you and anyone else who can answer: finding sats - when i find the sat 61w like what i did how do i know for sure the next sat 'goin east' is 58w?

i also find that when i try programming sats and i select one from the list and have the jack workin it goes out and stops, then goes again all with my finger still on the button. why does it do this?




You have mentioned a couple of times where the mover/jack has been rubbing or hitting the dish brackets and you have done some grinding on it, etc. Do you have any photos of that as that shouldn't happen and maybe one of us will have an idea of a remedy besides using a grinder.

A couple good sites to help you with the satellite location information is (.satbeams.com) it has a 'footprint page' that you can look at each sat and see which satellites put a signal footprint that covers your specific area where you live and on its 'channel page' it will show the channels on each sat and show which are encrypted and which are open to FTA.

(.lyngsat.com) is another good site but IMO Satbeams is easier to understand and use.

Moving the dish manually by holding down an arrow button on the remote the mover/jack shouldn't start and stop and start again as you describe, I would suspect a bad connection at the back of the 4DTV receiver or inside the mover/jack motor, if it doesn't do that and the mover moves smoothly when you select a satellite that you have stored in the 4DTV receivers memory (using the SAT button) or if it seems that its only doing that in one direction then it could be the switch under the arrow button inside the remote control is shorting or is dirty from having food or a drink spilled on it at some point.

I don't know if you knew to do this but on your 4DTV receiver you should go to G1 Channel 3 at 133w as soon as you can to get the satellite position updates loaded, autopeak and save that sat and manually tune it if needed so that you see the DC green light come on and let it sit there for a few hours (you won't see anything playing on that channel) but give it some time to download any updates into the memory like any new satellites put in orbit or satellites that have been renamed. W5 is one of those sats that you may not have, you can look to see - on the remote 'Options' button and then numbers 6, 4, 4, and you should see a list of satellites names stored in memory, right before the F1 sat you should see sat W5 listed, its a new one so if its not there you need the updates as you are missing sats that should be listed on the receiver.

We talked about that satellite before, Arts is on Channel 5 and runs 24/7 on that satellite so you can put your 4DTV receiver on that channel and autopeak to help you get it locked in and saved and then go to Ch 3 and make sure the DC light is lit up.

For me it also gives me a tv guide and sets the clock on the receiver but that may not happen unless you have a subscription.

[risk]

i will take some pics the next time i take the dish for a spin. . .yea i know it should happen, but i hav read online that some ppl hav to use spacers on theres etc.

yea, i used satbeams, dish pointer and lyngsat. . .they worked so far for me.

the dish only starts and stop when i do it manually, it did this same thing with the other jack as well. . .what about batteries dyin? another funny thing about it, is that the pulses are not even, eg. it would allow a half inch of travel now then the next maybe about an inch and a half. . .this is why i thought it was takin me to the next sat position.

yea, i read about the G1, but i was just tryin to get my arc sorted first by goin to the most south sat, the receiver also has W5 in the list.

__________________________________________________ ______________
UPDATE: i installed the wideband today, i tried to get it as perfect as possible, i couldnt set the focal distance to 50" because my arms only allowed a max of 47-47.5"

i played around with it for a bit on the most south again, i got nothing, then i was goin to try for G1, while i was movin the dish more to the west it did this stop and go thing again, so i stop completely and looked at the screen, and saw somethign happenin, i play around with the auto peak and skewed a bit and got a picture. . .black and white, no sound

im not sure what the sat is as yet, i know the dish didnt move very far away from the 61w mark. . . on CH 1 it has a camera at the bottom right, CH 2 sbt, everything in spanish.

why is it that when i skew on horizontal ch then goto a vertical one the horizontal one i return i hav to skew again?

[risk]

Big Brother Brazil is showin on "ao Vivo"

any know the sat? just so i can know my position.

i think its this. . . hxxp://www.lyngsat.com/brasilb4.html

[TurboPirate]

Big Brother Brazil is showin on "ao Vivo"

any know the sat? just so i can know my position.

i think its this. . . hxxp://www.lyngsat.com/brasilb4.html

BBB Big Brother Brazil, is one new channel added to amz 61west this past Monday, along with syfy, MGM, and more, total of 12 new channels, just re scan your SV you already have aimed to amz and you'll see this new channels, some 216, 217 and 982 and UP.
BBB is on TP 11015 or 11175 both with S/R 28880 3/4

[risk]

ok its hxxp://www.lyngsat.com/staronec2.html that im pickin up.

why is it showin B&W on the 4d but full colour on the VS?

then the channels where i have no sound on the 4d im gettin sound but no video on the VS?

[risk]

my problem now guys

i didnt find my most south sat, so i was tryin to get G1 at 133w (i have a few trees in my way. . .for now lol) while movin the dish to this point i saw a glimer of something on the tv, i tuned into it and it turn out to be 70w (Star One) i played with this for a bit. . .but since then thats the only sat which i can get, i hav tuned the polar mount a bit both directions and nothing. . .i only replace this lnb on sunday but before i was usin the very old norsat lnb the one earlier in this post and with this i was receving 55.5w

can anyone shead some light on this matter?

[Costactc]

Risk, you need to know where your pointing before we can help. I would suggest finding a really strong sat and then making your dish adjustments on that sat before going to other sats. I'm not sure why you think you picked up Starone- spotbeams for South America and Brasil.
If your trying with the old lnb, you may be wasting your time, be patient and wait for new lnb to arrive.

[risk]

Well, i said before im on 'star one' at 70w. ALL the TPs from lyngsat adds up. You guys in the U.S or CAN wont be able to pick it up, but im in the caribbean and in the footprint the VS when it locks a sat displays the name. Also i marked the pole before moving it. When i return home i will post the TPs i have so if anyone here in who is in the footprint can confirm. Im also get 75% on some and 20% on others

[Costactc]

Sounds good risk, I'd also appreciate a tp list of 55.5 as well and quality levels.

[risk]

Sounds good risk, I'd also appreciate a tp list of 55.5 as well and quality levels.

3631 4688 v 3/4 62%
3651 4286 v 3/4 50%
3681 6000 v 3/4 65%
3640 6518 v 3/4 40%
4071 13020 v 3/4 12%



they are also some weaker ones, but this is just a few a few i took off. . .

as i said, with the VS it shows you the sat name and location when you are locked.


i wish i could give you TPs from other sats, but like i said im not pickup up 55.5w anymore. . .

[TurboPirate]

3631 4688 v 3/4 62%
3651 4286 v 3/4 50%
3681 6000 v 3/4 65%
3640 6518 v 3/4 40%
4071 13020 v 3/4 12%



they are also some weaker ones, but this is just a few a few i took off. . .

as i said, with the VS it shows you the sat name and location when you are locked.


i wish i could give you TPs from other sats, but like i said im not pickup up 55.5w anymore. . .

I don't know about C Band but this TP's add up with Lyngsat 70west channel names will also help, I mean the TP and what channel you get on that TP...............

[risk]

3631 4688 v 3/4 62% '4011' NBR
3651 4286 v 3/4 50% '4013' canal um (TV) also Radio AM-FM
3681 6000 v 3/4 65% '4016' TV GLOBO - Minas (No sound or video)
3640 6518 v 3/4 40% '4019' Igreja Mundial do P
4071 13020 v 3/4 12% '4021' TV DIARIO
3673 4800 V 5/6 60% '4015' InteTV Cabugi (No sound or video here)


the '4000' numbers is the channel number on the VS


the funny thing is, i believe the answer to one of my earlier unanswered questions maybe 'because its PAL'

the question was. . .how come with the VS and 4d hooked up (via the IF out) i see different channels on the 4d than what i see with the VS. . .but the 4d channels are clear in black and white with NO sound.

[Costactc]

I wish I could help you on the 4dtv question, but I have no experience on that subject. My suggestion risk is to keep at 55.5w and keep trying to get higher signal by playing around with azimuth and elevation. Once you've done that nudge the dish to the next sat and do the same till your arc is complete. Of course saving all positions.

[risk]

I wish I could help you on the 4dtv question, but I have no experience on that subject. My suggestion risk is to keep at 55.5w and keep trying to get higher signal by playing around with azimuth and elevation. Once you've done that nudge the dish to the next sat and do the same till your arc is complete. Of course saving all positions.


well the 4D question is answered. . .

i would LOVE to keep at 55.5w. . once i can find it back lol lol

i will make a few adjustments today and im goin at it strong, something positive has to happen with this.

[Costactc]

As frustrating and time consuming as it is, it's well worth it in the end.

[risk]

question before the good news. . .

how tight should the polar be?
why im askin is before only when my dish gets to a certain point it keeps noise, i know it maybe because of rust but when i extend the jack to almost it max and then try to pull it back in, its gets some trouble.

when the dish was on the ground i was chkin to see if the pole i got was the correct size, so i put it inside the mount, with it inside there i could now moved the dish to ANY position and it stayed, this means thats it tight enought to keep up its body weight, but is it too tight?

see pic at the bottom. . .



the good news, i found my most south sat (58w) and funny enought this is what i did, since i could only find 70w for the last few days, i figure i would just use this (plus another guy said 'hey, it wont kill to max it out on that)
so i pulled up my weakest TPs and then i did the pull push on the dish and startin with a % of just 10 with me pushin on it it went up to about 50%.
so twist it on the pole till it kept this readin or close then i tried to find 58w . . .i could not have done it with out the signal finder. . .even when it started makin noise the quality meter on the tv never moved. . .



http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P240210_1726.jpg

[risk]

its late, i should be in my bed lol lol

havin some fun scan. . .58w, 61w (c&ku), 70w, 55.5w i finsh off tonight with 55.5w

thanks to 'costactc' for his arc which im usin the TPs from there to make things happen for me.

[TurboPirate]

3631 4688 v 3/4 62% '4011' NBR
3651 4286 v 3/4 50% '4013' canal um (TV) also Radio AM-FM
3681 6000 v 3/4 65% '4016' TV GLOBO - Minas (No sound or video)
3640 6518 v 3/4 40% '4019' Igreja Mundial do P
4071 13020 v 3/4 12% '4021' TV DIARIO
3673 4800 V 5/6 60% '4015' InteTV Cabugi (No sound or video here)


the '4000' numbers is the channel number on the VS


the funny thing is, i believe the answer to one of my earlier unanswered questions maybe 'because its PAL'

the question was. . .how come with the VS and 4d hooked up (via the IF out) i see different channels on the 4d than what i see with the VS. . .but the 4d channels are clear in black and white with NO sound.


http://www.lyngsat.com/staronec2.html
That info completely adds UP with 70 west, check the link for channels, some got audio and some doesn't have because those are encrypted.....

[Costactc]

its late, i should be in my bed lol lol

havin some fun scan. . .58w, 61w (c&ku), 70w, 55.5w i finsh off tonight with 55.5w

thanks to 'costactc' for his arc which im usin the TPs from there to make things happen for me.

That's what were here for risk, to help out and if my thread is doing that than I'd do it over again.
Keep your mount tight, only loosen when your tweaking for higher quality.

[risk]

@ those guys who said to peak my dish first with the 4d. . .

how can i really do this? im gettin 75% + in some cases from some sats and the 4d aint showin me any signs that it knows a sat is there.

only one sat i got this to work on and it was 58w ch 387H and 835V

[TurboPirate]

That's what were here for risk, to help out and if my thread is doing that than I'd do it over again.


I quote and back up costa..............

[Bowhunters]

@ those guys who said to peak my dish first with the 4d. . .

how can i really do this? im gettin 75% + in some cases from some sats and the 4d aint showin me any signs that it knows a sat is there.

only one sat i got this to work on and it was 58w ch 387H and 835V

Maybe its just me but I don't see either of those channels listed so i'm wondering if you are really at 58w.

If you are only getting sats south of you that makes me wonder if your dishes mount is aimed at true south, if the mount that attaches to the pole is misaligned and aimed slightly SE or SW then when your dish is swung around with the mover/jack then it will track above the sats in one direction of travel and below the sats when the dish is moved in the other direction so thats why its very important to have the pole mount aimed perfectly south with a compass.

If the BUD's pole mount is aimed slightly east or west the dish will track above and below the sats like these pics instead of tracking on the sat arc.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/Bowhunter70/pointing2.jpg


http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/Bowhunter70/SatelliteDishPointing.jpg

[risk]

seems to be a misunderstanding here now in what im asking for. . .
a set of those channels plays music on 58w (P9) and remember i was gettin video from 70w which all showed up on the 4d

i can get sats from 40.5w to about 95w. . .i didnt try passing either of the two as yet because you guys where syin to program them into the 4d receiver first and get the best quality on that. . .i still need to tune the arc and the lnb because im not gettin ku band. . .

if it where a case where my dish was not trackin, why would the fta read such high quality percentages?

[Bowhunters]

I didn't say the arc tracking was for sure a problem, I meant it as a suggestion as a possibility based on what I read out of your posts, none of us are there to see what you see and what you have done.

Your going back and forth between 4DTV and FTA may be part of what is leading to the misunderstanding for me, as I pointed out before in an earlier post I felt you would be better off first learning on your 4DTV receiver and getting it completely squared away on all the satellites first before you threw in jumping to FTA in posts.

I'm sorry about not being able to help you much, I have felt somewhat frustrated in this.

[risk]

I didn't say it was for sure, I meant it as a suggestion as a possibility based on what I read out of your posts, none of us are there to see what you see and what you have done.

Your going back and forth between 4DTV and FTA may be part of what is leading to the misunderstanding for me, as I pointed out before in an earlier post I felt you would be better off first learning on your 4DTV receiver and getting it completely squared away on all the satellites first before you threw in jumping to FTA in posts.

not exactly back and forth. . .but all im sayin is, if i can read as high as 75% on the fta, i should be seein the quality on the 4d move

i ran it the way i think you mensioned. . .LNB, cable, fta, IF out, 4d. . .

and i have two TVs in front for me, one for the fta the other for the 4d.

im tryin to learning the 4d, but its not givin me any lead way.

you know whats another funny thing. . .my clock is now sayin the exact time for my country. . .if i disconnect the power cord to reset the clock will i loose my sat postions?

they say a picture is worth a 1000 words. . .heres 3 :D




http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P040410_2317.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P040410_2317_01.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P040410_2320.jpg

[risk]

I didn't say the arc tracking was for sure a problem, I meant it as a suggestion as a possibility based on what I read out of your posts, none of us are there to see what you see and what you have done.

Your going back and forth between 4DTV and FTA may be part of what is leading to the misunderstanding for me, as I pointed out before in an earlier post I felt you would be better off first learning on your 4DTV receiver and getting it completely squared away on all the satellites first before you threw in jumping to FTA in posts.

I'm sorry about not being able to help you much, I have felt somewhat frustrated in this.

well you seein you bein the only person here which seems to hav a 4d i thought you might be the one to know the tricks. . .but if you are frustrated guy, dont sweat yourself much about it, my life goes on, yours should too. . .i will get to the bottom of this some day. . .peace

[Bowhunters]

When you click 'Options' and then '6 enter and 5 enter' to the System Status page do you see a (Unit ID number) and a (Receiver number) listed under A and B?

I wouldn't post pics of that screen but just verify you have them.

[risk]

When you click 'Options' and then '6 enter and 5 enter' to the System Status page do you see a (Unit ID number) and a (Receiver number) listed under A and B?

I wouldn't post pics of that screen but just verify you have them.

yup, it was the first thign i chked when the recevier got home.

everything is there.

im wonderin if its because i cant get it updated yet and thats why i cant see the other channels via the 4d. . .a few trees in my way of gettin to G1

[Bowhunters]

OK, well thats good.

Can you go to G1 Channel 5 and get the Arts channel I have mentioned before?

If so can you go there now?

[risk]

OK, well thats good.

Can you go to G1 Channel 5 and get the Arts channel I have mentioned before?

If so can you go there now?


chk my post above. . .i have to cut the trees first.

[Bowhunters]

Ahhhhh ok,

[risk]

i tried G5, but i dont know if the footprint is a bit weak for my right now and to make matters worse my dish still needs fine tuning. . .

BUT i will try ALL day tomorrow if i have to.

G5 Ch 9 on the 4d. correct? i will let you know the out come.

[Bowhunters]

Your 4DTV should get all analog channels that are in the open, those are generally Channels 1-24.

The channels above 24 are only watchable on a 4DTV receiver are mostly subscription, the Dallas Sports Network on Sat W1 Channel 400 that I listed above is the only 4DTV channel I know of that is free.

Those I listed from top to bottom go progressively go East to West, they are channels that you can see on your tv or with at least a test pattern.

That way you can lock in these satellites and it will help you find the others that are in between spots as not all have viewable free channels in the open but if you work at it you can still find them by signal.

I'm in Kansas and i'm the same boat as you as my neighbors tree has grown over the years and blocks some of my eastern satellites just as trees are blocking yours looking west.
__________________________________________________ _________________________________________________

Going East to West


G16 Channel 17 is a Disney-ABC wild feed channel in the clear that has a test pattern and high pitched side tone when nothing is airing.

W4 Channel 16 is PBS Channel in the clear

W1 Channel 400 is Dallas Sports Network in the clear

M5 Channel 780,781,782,783, are all Edusat in the free and clear

T7 Channels 798 Enlace Religious and 799 is a shop at home type site and both are free and clear

G5 Channel 9 you won't be able to watch but it used to be ESPN and it will say "not authorized" and you can use it to save the satellite

C3 Channel 7 is C-SPAN1 and is free and clear

G1 Channel 5 is Arts and is free and clear

C4 Channel 9 is QVC sales and is free and clear


When you get the tree cut down maybe this will help you find the westerly U.S. sats that you can get, I doubt you can get anything past C4.

[risk]

G16 - Ch 17 w/ test patterns, ch 16 Shepherd's Chapel, ch 19 court (divorce court at the time)
W4 - didnt get anything from ch 16 on the 4d, but i still have the two TVs runnin with both the 4d and fta, with this atleast i know the dish
is close to where it should. . .i picked up golden eagle on the fta.

i got down to about 116w satmex 5 (this is at the top of the trees), and didnt get aythign on the 4d, but one TP reads but gives know detail from a blind scan. . .when i go play with the dish soon atleast i wont hav to be lookin for the sats, just fine tune them with the 4d now.


so i have from 37.5w to just about 116.8w right now. . .

[Bowhunters]

The W4 Ch16 PBS channel seems to be a bit on the weak side compaired to others so that probably explains why you can't see it, you may not be able to get it unless you have the dish and feedhorn really tweaked to its max.

If you get KU on your 4DTV there is another PBS channel out your way - Sat K3 Channel600 at 87w

Here is a pretty good list of 4DTV channels, they are marked video and audio and if they are in the clear, if it doesn't say they are clear then they are subscription and scrambled - add the www - .skyvision.com/pages/information_center/4dtvguide.htm

Unfortunately for me that G16 with the Ch17 test pattern is about as far east as I can pick up now because of my neighbors tree that has grown up over the years and is blocking the eastern end of my arc.

[risk]

As said, peak your dish on all satellites using the 4DTV unit first, once this is done add the FTA receiver.

If setup correctly both units can be powered at the same time.
I set up many according to the diagrams posted below with zero problems, be sure to use only DC-Pass or Power-Pass splitters.

I thought I posted these diagrams here before but can’t seem to find them, sorry if there already posted.

Gizz

not much to update the guys on my progress at the moment because the weather is one which you wanna keep in doors :D

but i did get the item you mension in this post so this is what i will do for now. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P070410_1656.jpg

[Costactc]

Your doing a great job risk and bowhunters knows his stuff, especially with 4dtv. I've never tested 4dtv so It's all Greek to me.

[risk]

yes costactc, bowhunters does know his thing. . .thanks to him also. . .

well the switches are set up and working. . .i just need to make the time to go back on the roof now to get the ku band working. . .have not got a signal from that as yet. . .

[TurboPirate]

Your doing a great job risk and bowhunters knows his stuff, especially with 4dtv. I've never tested 4dtv so It's all Greek to me.

Wait a minute!!!! you lived in Greek, so it should be in your knowledge, lol..............jk

[Bowhunters]

Thanks guys but honestly most of the time I feel that I know just enough to be dangerous. LOL

[Costactc]

Wait a minute!!!! you lived in Greek, so it should be in your knowledge, lol..............jk

Just an expression Turbo, I speak Greek almost fluently.

[TurboPirate]

Just an expression Turbo, I speak Greek almost fluently.

I know my friend, I was adding the comedy relief to the thread, if you know what I meant.................

[risk]

i decide to put this link here since where it is does not get much traffic. . .

http://www.satfix.net/showthread.php?t=20594

[risk]

OK guys i finally got home the other BUD today. . .and what i thought was another 10' turns out to be a 12' :D

and from the looks of it, it seems to be in way better condition then the 10', only ONE mesh panal is pushed out and this is because i did that. . .

the mount is about 50% rusted so time for a new one and i believe i will be usin this in the future bigger is better right? ha ha ha . . .i will take a few pics 2morra when i return home

btw its an Orbitron dish. . .i was readin that the company has been out of business for a few yrs now, but the owners are happy with the products.

[Gold]

OK guys i finally got home the other BUD today. . .and what i thought was another 10' turns out to be a 12' :D

and from the looks of it, it seems to be in way better condition then the 10', only ONE mesh panal is pushed out and this is because i did that. . .

the mount is about 50% rusted so time for a new one and i believe i will be usin this in the future bigger is better right? ha ha ha . . .i will take a few pics 2morra when i return home

btw its an Orbitron dish. . .i was readin that the company has been out of business for a few yrs now, but the owners are happy with the products.

My first dish was bought new in 1985 it was Orbitron. I still have it today, but I'm gonna scrap it out now, it's just too far gone. 50% of the panels are missing/torn/holes etc.

I bought a nice 10' Unimesh as a parts dish, & since I'm using a Unimesh now I decided to sell the Orbitron for scrap Aluminum.

They are a little funky to put together...Mine is quite difficult, & darn near as hard to take apart, but hey a 12' I think I would suffer through it...You got a nice dish

[risk]

maannnnnnnn. . .in 1985 i was still sleepin with gran-ma and wettin my bed i think :D

i was gonna create a new topic, but i will cram all into here, keep it all in one place. . .

here are a few pics of my new dish. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_0646_01.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_0647.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1745.jpg

this is the only damage (which i did) it has besides the rusted out mount
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1746_01.jpg

[risk]

i had a hell of a day at work. . .tired, but still found the energy to do this :) cant keep my hands off it lol lol
any good ideas you guys hav for me on makin on?
my 10' BUD is currently usin a home made mount. . .works great, 'may' copy that design and incorporate the original Orbitron a bit. . .

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1812.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1812_01.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1813.jpg
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_1813_01.jpg

[risk]

i was goin to change the topic title name to

"My 10' BUD to my 12' BUD (In The Beginning)"


if a MOD can change this for me or someone tell me how that would be great. . .

[Bowhunters]

Are you going to replace the 10' with the 12' ?

That 12' looks like it needs some sand blasting and some serious work. LOL

[risk]

Are you going to replace the 10' with the 12' ?

That 12' looks like it needs some sand blasting and some serious work. LOL

serious work? na man, it just needs a mount, i believe the power washer can clean the mesh and dish frame pretty good, but why bother? it will turn like that again soon i believe, the 10' is already. . .

believ3e me when i tell you. . besides the mount on the 12' its in way better condition than the 10', with the 10' the mesh panels are a bit wavey on the 12' they are smooth like the day it came off the assembly line :D

[risk]

@ augoldfinger:

i was lookin around online and found someone lookin for a manual to install/setup the dish. . .and here is where it hit me.

i see the bolt to adjust the elevation but i coundlt figure how they would have set the decline. . .but on more diggin i see someone callin it 'spinclination' they use the section you see stickin up in the pic below. . .

with this bein said i assume that that piece was NOT at a 90 degree to the base of the dish to allow for your angle to be met. . .from the pic it looks perfect 90.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/OriginalMount1.jpg

[Costactc]

i was goin to change the topic title name to

"My 10' BUD to my 12' BUD (In The Beginning)"


if a MOD can change this for me or someone tell me how that would be great. . .

For my good friend risk, title change done.

[Bowhunters]

@ augoldfinger:

i was lookin around online and found someone lookin for a manual to install/setup the dish. . .and here is where it hit me.

i see the bolt to adjust the elevation but i coundlt figure how they would have set the decline. . .but on more diggin i see someone callin it 'spinclination' they use the section you see stickin up in the pic below. . .

with this bein said i assume that that piece was NOT at a 90 degree to the base of the dish to allow for your angle to be met. . .from the pic it looks perfect 90.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/OriginalMount1.jpg


From what i've seen it depends on the manufacterer of the mount on if it has a declination adjuster or not, it may also be that the older Bud polar mount setups are more likely to have it but newer ones probably won't and are more likely to have a welded small 2-3 degree offset angle on the dish face plate so if you need to set the declination you indeed spin the dish to different positions to tune the dish so that it stays aligned on the sats all they way across the arc.

It may look in that pic like the pipe fitting is welded at 90 degrees to the dish face plate but i'd bet if you could look down on it you would see that its off angle slightly by a couple degrees.

I believe on your 10ft dish from the pics that it does have the declination adjuster but I agree you don't seem to have one on the 12ft.

A good site to check out - .geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/tuningp4.html#anchor801578

From what i've read its only after you set dish elevation pointed south and then if your dish actually hits the sats ok to receive the signal at each end of the arc (east and west) but it goes above or below the sats directly south is when you need to adjust the declination.

If thats what you meant.

[risk]

ok guys, just a minor update on my progress and findings. . .

i have ordered a vbox6, a buddy gave me his pansat 3500 (diseqc 1.3 :) ) and i had a guy walk over to the neighbors and cut down the damn tree lol lol. . .

with that being said my skies are from Intelsat 10-02 @ 1w (BBC world service a nice circle c band beam hittin on my roof lol to i estimate from my other neighbor to about 133w maybe just a little bit more. . .


does anyone uses an H-H mount on there BUD? hxxp://www.dhsatellite.com/horizon.htm

with that travel distance my jack will starts to loose its leverage around 37.5w, i honestly dont wanna install 2 BUDs but i would like to scan every beam that hits my roof.

any ideas guys? maybe some kind of extention which still allows my dish to return back to the lowest sat on my west.

thanks. . .goin and play with the pansat. . .any tips costactc?

[Costactc]

I don't understand about your jack loosing leverage at about 37.5w. H-H mount is incompatible with a bud. My bud tracks 10w-107w, that's almost 100 degrees; why wouldn't yours be able?

[risk]

I don't understand about your jack loosing leverage at about 37.5w. H-H mount is incompatible with a bud. My bud tracks 10w-107w, that's almost 100 degrees; why wouldn't yours be able?

one thing i can say is that when i look at some of the pics of the BUDs it seems like when they move they push from side to side while mine has to flip over the top. . .plus im closer the clarkes belt. . .and with it over the other side the jack and the back ring becomes parallel.

and i wanna go from 133w (jack complately retrac) to 1w this is completely flippin the dish the other side. . .

H-H NOT compatible? what about the link?

here is 133w

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/133w.jpg

58w (most south)

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/58w.jpg

and 37.5w

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/375w.jpg

[Bowhunters]

Those mounting pic's don't look right, every BUD i've ever seen 'including pictures' the dish mover/actuator is always mounted so that both the dish attachment and the slider clamp attachment are on the same side of the main pole, the way it looks in your pictures the dish actuator attachment is on the east side but you have the mover's tube slider mount attached over on the west or SW side of the pole and that is why the actuators motor end is coming into contact with the verticle pole when the dish is looking west.

If the slider clamp mount was on the N side or NE (house side) of the main pole the motor would be away from the pole.

As they show here the mover should be attached to the dish on the same side as the dish mover attachment mount is on and be in an alignment - .skyvision.com/pages/information_center/PDFs/Dish_Mover_Install.pdf

I think you'll find if the mover/actuator is mounted over on the same side of the main pole as the dish attach point it will very likely work better.

As far as the mover not seeming to have the guts to move the dish fast, moving the mount around may help some but if it still seems slow or that its struggling it could be that the motor has seen its better years and just flat needs replaced.

I also noticed in your pictures that you have unequal travel on your dish, it travelss a lot further looking east than it does looking west, that may be intentional as you wanted to look further east and so you adjusted the slider clamp mount on the actuator to the end but it normally would be in the middle so you would have equal travel both ways but due to the mount being on opposing sides it may also be due to the motor coming in contact with the main pole when looking west.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/Bowhunter70/PolarMountPicture.jpg

Edited the post - This picture I found (I added the colored arrows) is what I mean by the correct way the mover/actuator should be installed on the same side, you could either use a longer bracket or triangle plate 'whichever yours has' (orange arrow) to move the actuator arm further away from the main pole or use a spacer under the slider mount attachment (Green Arrow) with a longer bolt so the motor end of the mover will stay clear from the pole.

Doing this should help the dish track around more smoothly.

[risk]

im not a 100% sure i fully understand what you are saying. . .but allow me to clear up somethings. . .

it just needed spacers so the inner tube dont touch the mount, being that my mount is home made i was mounted more like 100 degrees and not the 90. . .but this is not the problem.

in my first pic the dish is lookin at 133w, if i adjust the jack clamp closer to the center this will push my dish higher and i wont be able to point the dish at the lower birds like 133w, remembering this bird is located 7.5 degrees at my location.

ALL pics where taken viewing from south side, the jack is on the north side of the pole.

the actuator is in good shape, the problem was the when pushin from 37.5w down to 1w the inner tube is parallel with the back ring of the which will make the actuator lost it leverage. . .i will need to take a pic of this for better explanation.

just remembering, im closer to the equator then you guys and my dish swings over the top and not to a side when sweepin the arc.

this is a pic of the mount (home made) maybe you can post a pic or two with yours, lets see if im missing smoething.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P240210_1726.jpg

[risk]

this is my original orbitron mount and its basically mounting the jack in the same orentation is the home made, the dish in the pic is 180 degrees the other side, but you get the picture.

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P260410_0647.jpg

and from that pic you see that the dish moves side to side, while mine will have to push the dish over the top of the pole. . .

[Bowhunters]

Ahhh ok, I guess it just looks strange from the angles I am seeing bud.

I knew your dish is basically looking straight up to see the belt of sats and swinging over the top toward the horizons when going east or west, maybe using a spacer with a longer bolt on that slider mount on the actuator will be all you need to do to make the motor stay clear of the pole.

It could be due to a combination of the weight of the dish and that your actuators motor is old and maybe getting weak that is why it is struggling to push or pull the dish when its over to one side.

Some of the movers being made in recent years are known to have stronger motors on them than movers made years ago.

[risk]

these youtube vids are the best i could do in tryin to explain my case. . .

first let me say, when my dish (or dishes here) is setup and you place that angle meter on the back ring to get the total degrees ours comes out to 15 degrees give or take a degree or two for fine tuning, so that should create a picture in how my dish travels.

this is how i believe most guys on here dishes move (side to side i call it)

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCOvBd2HZss

this is the closest one i found to how my dish moves. . .closest!! lol

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhyVytpu7yM&feature=related

at 44 seconds in with the dish at its highest still have more lean than mine. . .in other words if i had a solid dish and kept it at my most south it will keep all the water when the rain falls.

[risk]

Ahhh ok, I guess it just looks strange from the angles I am seeing bud.

I knew your dish is basically looking straight up to see the belt of sats and swinging over the top toward the horizons when going east or west, maybe using a spacer with a longer bolt on that slider mount on the actuator will be all you need to do to make the motor stay clear of the pole.

It could be due to a combination of the weight of the dish and that your actuators motor is old and maybe getting weak that is why it is struggling to push or pull the dish when its over to one side.

sweet, now we gettin somewhere, the jack dont touch anything, that problem is history now. . .

my next step now is to explain to you guys that if i where to take the dish from west at 133w (jack fully in) and move it to east @ 1w jack near fully extented that the innet tube on the jack will start to move from bein 90 degrees to the earth (motor of jack closer to the ground and inner tube to the sky) and start headin towards 100+. . .this is the problem and this is where i talk about the leverage. when you guys hav you jack fully extented the weight is not on the jack, its on the mount. . .while ALL the weight on my dish is on my jack. . .then it has to try to pull it up from this angle.

but i will take a pic of this at something. . .a picture worths a 1000 words

[TurboPirate]

these youtube vids are the best i could do in tryin to explain my case. . .

first let me say, when my dish (or dishes here) is setup and you place that angle meter on the back ring to get the total degrees ours comes out to 15 degrees give or take a degree or two for fine tuning, so that should create a picture in how my dish travels.

this is how i believe most guys on here dishes move (side to side i call it)

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCOvBd2HZss

this is the closest one i found to how my dish moves. . .closest!! lol

hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhyVytpu7yM&feature=related

at 44 seconds in with the dish at its highest still have more lean than mine. . .in other words if i had a solid dish and kept it at my most south it will keep all the water when the rain falls.

I saw both links and both dishes move differently.

[Costactc]

Looking a bit closer at your pics, was your actuator making contact with your pole? If so, the jack is always mounted to the outside of your pole. In reality, you should be able to move your dish approx. 100 degrees, if you over do it you might flip the actuator.

[risk]

Looking a bit closer at your pics, was your actuator making contact with your pole? If so, the jack is always mounted to the outside of your pole. In reality, you should be able to move your dish approx. 100 degrees, if you over do it you might flip the actuator.

my jack NEVER touch my pole, it CANT lol lol the close any part of it to the pole is about 6". . .it was just bowhunter's words that he used. . .it was at one point touch the mount when i extend it, but spacers took good care of that.

a 100 degrees i get for sure. . .i can move from 37.5w to 133w+ thats 95.5+ degrees there and i hav pushed the jack more before. . .but i would really like to start from 1w :D. . .so i need to push 140w so i will pass both my last sats on either end.

[Costactc]

Where are you located risk, I don't think you'll get to 1w. I'm one hour west of Montreal and I can get my bud to 10w.

[risk]

Where are you located risk, I don't think you'll get to 1w. I'm one hour west of Montreal and I can get my bud to 10w.

im in Barbados we are also the most eastern island . . .this is my theory on why i should get to one.

1: based on satbeams im in that beam strong (i know they are not a 100%, but for the most part they are close for all the sat i have been locking)
2: pointing at that sat is 22.5 elevation (cornwall area is like 2 degrees), basically the same degree i also need to point at 119w (21.6 degree on dishpointer)
3: 1w is in my east and i have a better view of the sky in that direction. . .

sounds logical guys? plus its all fun and games in fta. . .well for me.

what i will do is, i will disconnect my jack, flip the dish over makin it a linear/east and start from 1w and let you guys knows. . .this will happen this weekend, plus with it flipped i get a chance to fine tune the lnb because up till not i have not received a ku signal. . .

[Bowhunters]

Sorry for any problem I may have caused.

I was only going by the below photo where it appears that the actuator motor housing was in contact with the pole and evidently it only appears to be touching in that photo due to the angle the photo was taken.

Sorry I even brought it up but I was only trying to help you.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/Bowhunter70/375w.jpg

[risk]

Sorry for any problem I may have caused.

I was only going by the below photo where it appears that the actuator motor housing was in contact with the pole and evidently it only appears to be touching in that photo due to the angle the photo was taken.

Sorry I even brought it up but I was only trying to help you.


hey buddy, no harm done here. . .we all always try to help each other, i know my photos are not the cleanest lol. . .i hope this dont stop you from havin a say in this topic, you been been helpful :D

cheers

[Costactc]

Tha's the pic that made me post as well. Seeing that your in Barbados, you logically should be able to get to 1w, but those sats spot beams are for Europe and Scandinavia. I couldn't even oick some of them up when I lived in Greece.
I think your best bet would be Atlantic Bird at 5w- I've heard of some people in the Montreal area scanning it in with there buds.

[risk]

ok costactc. . .like always i will let you guys know what i dig up. . .

1w is the last know beam which satbeams give me for my area and im dyin to test it out. . plus as i said with the dish bein linear/east enables me to fine tune much better. . .

had a roam on satbeams. . .i never really did go into the 'E' side of life. . .

wouldnt it wild for me to pick up 10e? lol lol it estimates my dish at 11 degrees.

[Costactc]

You know risk if you could get to 13w-Hotbird- with a universal ku band lnb you would probaly scan in over 1,000 open channels. Have a look at the spot beams though, most are for Europe.

[risk]

You know risk if you could get to 13w-Hotbird- with a universal ku band lnb you would probaly scan in over 1,000 open channels. Have a look at the spot beams though, most are for Europe.


im not sure im findin the bird you talk about. . .they are hotbirds at 13E, not seein anything for 'w'. . .those beans at 13e are not even close to me, but you know i'll try to bring in what ever i can :D

[Costactc]

Just like me risk, even though they say there aren't any channels I still scan. I've gotten channels on sats before which I shouldn't have.

[risk]

i know we are pass this but i took a quick pic while i was out there :)

this was taken from the west side lookin east. . .pointin at 58w, just showin the distance between the jack and pole.



http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/P180510_1832.jpg

[risk]

still havin some fun. . .

today i turned the dish makin it a linear/east after i was some what happy with my arc on the west side (37.5w to 135w) the quality i tried with a bit but i dont believe i cant do anymore with it knowing that my LNBs are not completely centered, i cant get the correct focal distance (im short by a few inches) and i believe the condition of the mesh panels are stoppin me from gettin ku band, but we'll see about this in a bit.

ok, i locked on to "1w Intersat 10-02" only got two TPs, 4183 h 21050 32%q and 4177 v 28000 29%q kind of sad because i wanted bbc world :(

with my dish like this i can now face the dish and play with the LNBs and hope to get the ku lnb in action.

only if i could get my dish to max out 1w - 135w. . im still tryin for 10e and 17e :D

@ costactc : what is the strongest ku TP on 12.5 or 15?

after writin this i found that "Atlantic Bird 2 at 8.0°W" has a nice ku beam here, and with this the dish will still be low enough for me to reach the lnb

[Costactc]

I haven't scanned 12w yet, still fidling around with my universal lnb. On t12 at 15w the strongest tp is MSNBC at 1170 V 3197- comes in here at 99% signal quality.

[Bowhunters]

Awesome picture Risk, no way Costactc or I would have brought up the clearance issue if we'd seen that before.

A picture can say a 1000 words.

[Costactc]

Awesome picture Risk, no way Costactc or I would have brought up the clearance issue if we'd seen that before.

A picture can say a 1000 words.

Not quite sure what you mean bow, about previously posting that his jack was making contact?
Risk, if you meant Atlantic Bird at 5w, you should be able to pull it in. I've heard of people in Montreal getting some Northern African channels at 5w.

[risk]

at one time me and bow where talkin about my jack touchin my polar mount. . .i had cut piece off the mount and i also installed a spacer. . .that fixed it, this is what i believe bow is talkin about. . .

yea i got 5w. . .was watchin some football yesterday on it. . .i believe i can get 10e but another set of trees again in my way. . .

im thinkin 8w because at that sat the dish is in a position where i can reach the LNBs well. . . but i would have to guess the location because there is no c band for me to lock it first.

[Costactc]

According to lyngsat there is one ku tp but you'll need a universal lnb for it at 8w.

[risk]

this is the one TP 11500 H 3460

how did you know it requires a universal lnb?

learning time again. . .

[risk]

ok guys. . .here a new addition to the family :D hope it works well

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/1.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af348/05typeR/Satellite%20Stuff/2.jpg

now i dont have to use two (2) TVs when movin my dish lol

[Costactc]

Nice piece of hardware risk, use it well. I'm retiring my vboxII and replacing it with a Pansat positioner, anxiously awaiting its arrival.

[risk]

o man this has been a long wait. . .but i finally got it and it worked right away. . nothing like the vbox 6 where ppl said i had to play with wires to find the sweet spot. . .

[Costactc]

Great news risk, keep us up to date with your findings. T o answer a question you asked as to why you would need a universal lnb for tp at 8w, our linear lnb cover 11700-12200 but that tp is 11500.