Switching trouble

[dogdayz]

I have been running a T5 with a Chieta 4x1 with legacy LNBs on 91, 110 and 129 and a universal for 118 and 119.

I changed the switch to an EMP centauri 8x1 and added another legacy LNB for 82.

Now it seems that the receiver doesn't want to switch. Have I exceeded the limits by adding another LNB or is there a problem with the Dreamlink and EMP?

What's the best solution to enable reliable switching for all of these sats?

[Terryl]

Did you set the T5 for Diseqc 1.1 on the switching??? That will enable the receiver to switch more then 4 Diseqc ports. (up to 16)

And the switch if designed for a single receiver should only power the LNB selected, you would only exceed the receivers DC current spec's if you use a 2 or more receiver switch with 3 or more LNB's attached.

Setting us a Diseqc 1.1 switch may be a bit complicated, go to their web site (emp-centauri.cz) and see if they have a setup guide for that switch.

[auggie]

Dreamlink's seem to have a Problem with EMP centauri switch's and adding extra equipment to the mix
Believe it boils down to the DL receiver Not Having Enough Power to run everything.
Stick to the Chieta/legacy switches.

[dogdayz]

Yes, I was thinking it was all the LNB's drawing too much power but Terryl said above that only one LNB should be powered at a time.
I thought the EMP switch was supposed to be excellent quality - didn't expect problems.


Dreamlink's seem to have a Problem with EMP centauri switch's and adding extra equipment to the mix
Believe it boils down to the DL receiver Not Having Enough Power to run everything.
Stick to the Chieta/legacy switches.

[Terryl]

This may be true for a multi switch designed for use with 2 or more receivers, when using that type of switch all attached LNB's are powered up, thus the DC current draw is quite high.

On a 1x4 or 1x8 single receiver switch the attached LNB's do not need to be power up at all times, the switch will enable the DC power to the selected port and LNB, so there should be no problems with over taxing the DC current supplied from the single receiver.

In a multiple LNB setup like this if there is more then one dish I would make sure that everything is grounded and bonded using #12 gauge copper wire to one single Earth ground, this will ensure that there would be no 22 kHz signal leakage or other RF intrusion on the coax, this could confuse the switch.

[Terryl]

I've also found that all LNB's need to be of the same type/brand, as mixing types and using different manufacturers can also contribute to switching problems.

Now some of the old style legacy LNB's use a DC voltage to switch between satellite polarity's, this would require two coaxes to each LNB (one for the low voltage and one for the high voltage) this requires an old style legacy switch, one with a SAT 1 A/B input, for 6 satellites using the old style LNB your switch would need to have 12 inputs.

Now on the newer standard LNB's only one port would be needed for one satellite as the switching is done on the single port, when you add a second reciver to the mix you need a second port on the LNB, when using this type of LNB you must be very careful not to mix up the two outputs, you must use port #1 on all LNB's when using a single receiver.

So I would go back and check your cabling to be sure that there is not a mix-up between outputs on the LNB's.

I would also be sure that all the LNB's are of the same type/brand as some don't work too well with others.

[Terryl]

I'm going to be quiet for a while as I have had too much coffee.

[auggie]

EMP is a good quality switch, for the Most part, "BUT" some brands of receivers DL etc.
seem to function different (my own experience) with them, i have a T-4 and a SV8000 the
T-4 would not work with the EMP switch but the SV8000 "WOULD", soon as a changed to a Chieta
No More Switching Problems with Both Rec.

[dogdayz]

Arrrrrrgh! What a PITA.

Thanks Terryl, last thing I want to do is climb up on to the roof and check all my LNBs for port allocation, I never thought that it would matter. Also I don't have my dishes grounded either.
I'll have to leave all that for a day when I feel more energetic. :tehe:

Maybe I should try a different 8x1 brand or what about two 4x1 with a 0/22 or SW21?

[jvvh5897]

I run 5 LNB on a 4 to 1 sw as one of the LNB (combo C and Ku) has internal 22KHz on/off (A/B) sw. Power draw is typically 0.15-0.25 amp with a mix of LNBs (no two are the same at the moment).

[dogdayz]

I ordered a new 8x1 switch from ebay, I'll give that a try when it comes. I was also thinking about using a motor, that would eliminate the switch and use only one lnb. Anybody have any thoughts to share or experience using a motor?

[baseman]

I have been running north and south with a Zinwell MS4X8WB-Z 4X8 Multi-Switch...similar to Jvvh5897 #10 above

[jvvh5897]

A good place to read about motors is this section:
http://www.satfix.to/forumdisplay.php?759-Satellite-Hardware-Discussion-and-Pictures

[dogdayz]

Thanks, I never noticed that category in the forum...:innocent:


A good place to read about motors is this section:
http://www.satfix.to/forumdisplay.php?759-Satellite-Hardware-Discussion-and-Pictures

[dogdayz]

I see them for sale on ebay and amazon. It looks good - does it work well, reliably switches sats? That would be a good solution for me, I'm running a T4 and a T5.


I have been running north and south with a Zinwell MS4X8WB-Z 4X8 Multi-Switch...similar to Jvvh5897 #10 above

[dogdayz]

Just did some more reading about the Zinwell MS4X8WB. This switch has 4 LNB (2 dual) inputs and eight receiver outputs. That's no good for me, I need six LNB inputs.