1000.2 Question

[boster1000]

I have a 2 dream link t5 and I'm going to run it on 1000.2 western arc lnb . There will be 2 receivers my question is how many power inserters do I need 1 or 2 and what is best hook up for it Thanks

[nobodyspecial]

I have a 2 dream link t5 and I'm going to run it on 1000.2 western arc lnb . There will be 2 receivers my question is how many power inserters do I need 1 or 2 and what is best hook up for it Thanks

the power inserter is to power the lnb so you only need one

[harry3456]

You could probably get away with powering up both receivers and leaving them on at all times to keep the power up without the inserter. If you're going to add the power inserter add it to port 1 and put your receivers on 2 and 3.

Do not put the power inserter in line with the receiver, it goes by itself, cable out to the LNB and plug in. Do not connect the other end with either receiver.

[jedi]

You could probably get away with powering up both receivers and leaving them on at all times to keep the power up without the inserter. If you're going to add the power inserter add it to port 1 and put your receivers on 2 and 3.

Do not put the power inserter in line with the receiver, it goes by itself, cable out to the LNB and plug in. Do not connect the other end with either receiver.

I'm curious - why not put your power inserter and a receiver both on Port 1? That's the way I have always done it - and haven't had a problem - but I'm always looking to learn.

[harry3456]

I'm not sure what you're referring to. If you are using an DPP 44 switch, then yes, your inserter goes into port 1 on the receiver out on the switch, but does not go inline with the receiver. Port 2, 3, and 4 are used for receivers.

The OP did not say they would be using a switch only the inserter.

If you're inserter is going direct to port 1 on the LNB (no switch) then you can not add a receiver to that same port as it's taken by the inserter and also not inline with the receiver as it will eventually fry the receiver.

2 FTA receivers if left on should be enough to power up the 1000.2 though.

I'm not sure I understand how you have a receiver and inserter on the same port. Could you clarify, I'm always interested in learning new things also :)

[Terryl]

OK Kid's, the DP1000 LNB is a special animal, it is a DC power hog, it needs around 750 mA of DC current to run right.

A standard FTA receiver can only put out around 500 mA, the excessive DC current draw on the receiver will over time damage the LNB DC power supply in a standard FTA receiver.

So you need something to power this type of LNB other then the FTA receiver, the DP type LNB needs around 20 volts DC at 750 mA, the only power inserter designed for this type of LNB is the one for the DPP 44 switch.

The DPP power inserter has a receiver connection on it, but lab tests have shown that this connection is not too friendly to the standard FTA receiver's HD satellite tuner module,(input impedance mismatch) it was designed to be used with OEM receivers only, they don't care that it may damage a receiver not designed to be used with this type of LNB.

Also trying to use two FTA receivers to power this LNB will not work, this is due to the way the DC power circuit is designed inside this LNB, only the #1 receiver's power will properly power this LNB, OEM receivers on the other ports detect what port they are on and their software will shut down the LNB power to protect the receiver, this only happens with OEM receivers.

So to properly connect a FTA receiver and a DPP power inserter you will need to run one coax cable for the power to port #1 on it's own, and other coax cables for the receivers. (max of 2)

If you need to run more then 2 FTA receivers you will need the DPP44 switch, this will give you 3 receiver ports,(#1 port will be used for the DC power) the good thing is you can cascade the DPP44 switch, this would give you the possibility of 9 receivers run off the one D1000 LNB.

[boster1000]

This is what I was referring to I got the picture off of Google27270

[Terryl]

That will work fine, just run one coax directly from it to the #1 port on the LNB on it's own coax, then ports #2 and #3 on the LNB will run your receivers just fine, the #4 port is for a second external DP single LNB for a 4th satellite, most use the special one for 118W, or it could be used for 82W or 91W (no not both at once) if your in their footprint.

Diseqc switching is....Diseqc port #1 = 119, Diseqc port #2 = 110, Diseqc port #3 = 129, Diseqc port #4 = external LNB. (if used)

This D1000 LNB can not be used with any other type of LNB, it has to be a DP or DP+ single satellite band stacking LNB.

[jedi]

I'm not sure what you're referring to. If you are using an DPP 44 switch, then yes, your inserter goes into port 1 on the receiver out on the switch, but does not go inline with the receiver. Port 2, 3, and 4 are used for receivers.

The OP did not say they would be using a switch only the inserter.

If you're inserter is going direct to port 1 on the LNB (no switch) then you can not add a receiver to that same port as it's taken by the inserter and also not inline with the receiver as it will eventually fry the receiver.

2 FTA receivers if left on should be enough to power up the 1000.2 though.

I'm not sure I understand how you have a receiver and inserter on the same port. Could you clarify, I'm always interested in learning new things also :)

I don't know what I was thinking of either :-) - must have had a few pops to many LOL...........
I might have been thinking of DirecTV SWM power inserters - one cable goes from inserter to dish and other to receiver

[Terryl]

The DPP44 switch power inserter does have a receiver connection, but it is not too friendly to FTA receiver HD modals or the tuners used for them.

They were designed for use with OEM receivers and not the FTA receiver type tuner.

[boster1000]

Basically what everyone is saying is if I use the 1 connection from the LNB (because the LNB has 3 cables coming out of it for 3 receivers) so if I use the one cable that is going to a no receiver to power the LNB I should be good to go

[Terryl]

Yup...the far left port looking at it with the eyes facing you is #1, this is the normal DC power port for that LNB.

[harry3456]

I don't know what I was thinking of either :-) - must have had a few pops to many LOL...........
I might have been thinking of DirecTV SWM power inserters - one cable goes from inserter to dish and other to receiver

Glad they got it figured out! Took me forever to work that switch in with a SW21 to pull all 5 sats....only got 5 to 1 receiver though. The other 3 only got 4. I've been reading for years and confuse the ***** out of myself constantly.....lol

Gonna hit the pops myself! Sure feels like Friday already :)

[Arlo]

After blowing the qpsk modules on my T5 and LB 8000 receivers and reading around, I home brewed my own power supply to power a dn special lnb for 110, 118,119 and 129 on a separate dish. 3 years running and all's good. DC power of 22VDC is fed to port 1 of the lnb and a quality surge protector is used.

From the posts above if a receiver has only 4 diseqc selections, how could you put a 5th, or more, lnb in the loop? My gut tells me....use another receiver. Correct?

What I don't get is if polarity is switched with 13/18 volts on the receiver side and the lnb's are powered separately, how does that work? From what I've tested port 1 doesn't feed back to the receiver, so it must be lnb power only.

[harry3456]

After blowing the qpsk modules on my T5 and LB 8000 receivers and reading around, I home brewed my own power supply to power a dn special lnb for 110, 118,119 and 129 on a separate dish. 3 years running and all's good. DC power of 22VDC is fed to port 1 of the lnb and a quality surge protector is used.

From the posts above if a receiver has only 4 diseqc selections, how could you put a 5th, or more, lnb in the loop? My gut tells me....use another receiver. Correct?

What I don't get is if polarity is switched with 13/18 volts on the receiver side and the lnb's are powered separately, how does that work? From what I've tested port 1 doesn't feed back to the receiver, so it must be lnb power only.

If you're using switches you take one receiver port of the DPP44 and add it to the SW21 and bring in the 5th LNB to the SW21. You will only get it to one receiver though. The other 2 receiver ports will only get the 4 sats that are on it.

[boster1000]

Her is a picture of the LNB that I'm using . Seeing how I'm only using 2 of the rec. connections the 3rd can stay there and use power inserter on that one . When I hooked this up originally it said it does the switching internally so I have no other switches hooked up 27273

[harry3456]

Her is a picture of the LNB that I'm using . Seeing how I'm only using 2 of the rec. connections the 3rd can stay there and use power inserter on that one . When I hooked this up originally it said it does the switching internally so I have no other switches hooked up 27273

If I were going to set this up, looking at your picture the far left port would take the inserter (port 1). The 2 middle ports 2 and 3 would go to the receivers. You can add another LNB into port 4. It needs to be a DP or DPP LNB though. You can not add a twin only a single. The LNB does have an internal switch and will operate an additional LNB tying into it on port 4. You could add 91, 82 or 118.

[Terryl]

After blowing the qpsk modules on my T5 and LB 8000 receivers and reading around, I home brewed my own power supply to power a dn special lnb for 110, 118,119 and 129 on a separate dish. 3 years running and all's good. DC power of 22VDC is fed to port 1 of the lnb and a quality surge protector is used.

From the posts above if a receiver has only 4 diseqc selections, how could you put a 5th, or more, lnb in the loop? My gut tells me....use another receiver. Correct?

What I don't get is if polarity is switched with 13/18 volts on the receiver side and the lnb's are powered separately, how does that work? From what I've tested port 1 doesn't feed back to the receiver, so it must be lnb power only.
The D1000 and the other DP type LNB's from Dish or Bell(the newer ones) do not use the 13/18 volt switching anymore, that is for legacy and other types of FTA LNB's.

The DP+ DPP type LNB's use what is called "Band Stacking".

This is where the Left and Right polarity transponders (which are used on Dish and Bell satellites) are put on different bands, the "R" transponders are in the standard 950 to 1450 MHz band, then the "L" transponders are up converted and put in a 1650 to 2150 MHz band, this way all transponders can be put in one coax, this also eliminates one problem on long coax runs, there are no DC voltages to switch anything, so the DC voltage drop problems on long runs of coax is eliminated, and you can go up to 200 feet on one coax.

Also because of the higher frequency band, the coax used with this type of LNB must be rated to 2.5 to 3 GHz.

A standard Dish or Bell OEM receiver will put out around 20 to 22 volts DC, thus the longer you can run the coax.

And be aware the some of the newer LNB's used for the hopper systems are getting out there, these LNB's called DPx are not compatible with FTA receivers, these DPx LNB's use 3 bands for the satellite signals, they might work but you will be missing some transponders.

As to adding a 5th satellite, you could use 5 or more single satellite LNB's and a Diseqc 2.0 switch, or most have used a 22 KHz switch to go to the 5th (or 6th) satellite, this would make for 2 separate systems, one setup for Dish the other for Bell.

Note: for those that may be thinking of trying for the Bell satellites and live in the US, you must be within approximately 200 miles South of the US/Canadian border to receive the signals from 91 and 82.