Dreamlink T5 Problem with power to LNB

[seadog]

I hope I have posted in the correct forum category. I have a problem with the receiver LNB power. Over the last two days I have done the following:

1. checked output voltage (18V) at receiver connection. OK.
2. " voltage at grounding block - OK
3. Installed new cable connectors on original cable. Continuity check + voltage is OK to dish.
4. replaced original cable with new RG6 with manufacturer's connectors.
5. As power was reaching the dish, I decided to check alignment (aimed at 91W Nimiq1). I have a separate dish on 82 on another receiver and it is working fine. When I connected the satellite finder to the 91 dish, the meter power shut off immediately when the receiver cable was connected. I disconnected the cable to the dish and the power came back on. As I thought I had a faulty LNB, I swapped it with the one used on the second dish and the same thing has happened. All told, I have connected four LNBs (two were obtained from a neighbour who took a b.. dish down.) All reacted the same way. I have full power to the dish until the LNB is connected and then no power.

What else can I possibly check???? Any advise would be sincerely appreciated.

[razorbak421]

Funny I got same problem. Started yesterday afternoon. I’m stumped too .

[62bug]

So from what you describe you don't have a switch is that correct?
Any chance another power supply could be contacting your dish?
The T5 does it have a module installed?
Just thinking out loud here

[beefcake]

Had the same problem spent over 300. trying to find my problem , they have a bad adapter so i got a universal adapter at the source and its been working great ever since good luck.

[mycroft]

Like 62bug asked are you using a switch? Also you can check lnb settings under dish instalation? I will be interested in the solution to your prob.

[razorbak421]

The main t5 power adapter that plugs in wall ? How can that be bad if it turns on and function ok .

[bluenose1]

Mine turned on but was only getting half the power i had it checked , the T5 all had a bad adapter it wasn't getting enough signal from the dish . I had a dish installer come in and check it and he said he had 12 people in 2 weeks that had a weak adapter . The new one works perfect.

[razorbak421]

I just ordered one . I’ll let you know if it works.

[seadog]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will swap out the power adapter for the second T5 that is working OK and see how that works. I do not have a switch in the line as I'm using direct lines from separate dishes. It will have to wait a few days as I have to make an unexpected trip today to attempt to resolve an problem which originated over the weekend. Will let you know how things go when I return.

[seadog]

To those curious as to how I made out with the power/LNB problem, I have to advise that I am throwing in the towel today. I worked all day re-wiring (cables, new Legacy LNBs, new grounding block, swapping T5 receivers, re-aligning dishes and adding switches) but still no luck with pulling in 91 on one dish. Voltages are correct ( 13 & 18 volts) and I even hooked the new cable run (approx 35 feet) direct to receiver without switch or grounding block and voltage disappeared immediately when connected to new LNB. The receiver to sat. finder connection shows steady power when the cable is attached to receiver input but immediately changes to short "beeps" every 3 seconds when LNB cable is connected to meter. Even tried another 12v power adapter for the receiver but still no luck. I know when I'm beaten.

[staticrider]

The ac adaptor to the T5 will fail. It will put out enough voltage but not enough current for the LNB. There are many posts on this in many forums. Move the T5 to a second working location and test it there.

[seadog]

Hello staticrider: You are absolutely correct! In my haste and frustration, I decided to swap the AC adapter to the other T5 that is running downstairs. Unfortunately, I did not realize I had picked up the same adapter I had removed from the non-working T5 and had taken downstairs as well. I then took the same one back upstairs instead of the good adapter. My idiotic mistake. I used the correct adapter this PM and lo and behold, I now have a signal once again.

Thanks ever so much for reminding me of the adapter problem - just shows how careless it can get when things are not going right.

[dcapper]

I had the same problem at the lake and changed the switch three times and it never worked. I changed the power supply and wow it worked! Thanks all!

[Arlo]

Pardon me. Coffee hasn't kicked in yet.
If you're trying to run more than 2 (ideally 1) lnb off of the T5 with no supplemental power to supply them.
It will stress the receiver, it will run hot, the power supply will be taxed, and worse it will fry the turbo module.
For around 3 years I've been running 4 lnb's.....3 on 1 dish and 1 on a another.
I have a power inserter, like the one you use for the DPP44, cabled to Port 1 of my triple lnb.
In my case I have a DC supply of around 21 volts running to port 1. Center conductor is +, shield is -.

I was ok on my T5 and Linkbox 8000 with a twin lnb with no inserter for a year. Once I swapped it out for a triple and added the separate dish my T5 power supply cooked a capacitor. Both receivers cooked the turbo modules.
Many suggest you can use an old DN receiver to power the LNB's.
Everything is living healthy now. Receivers are running cool (also have small pc fans pulling heat out). Haven't blown the DL100 again since.
Ask questions if you want. A perk is that the little bit of heat on the lnb's helps melt snow in the winter.

[Terryl]

Not enough power is a common problem for most FTA receivers, these receiver were originally designed for FTA usage and to be used on one satellite, maybe two.

The standard DC current supplied to the LNB from an FTA receiver is around 400 to 500 milli amps, running two legacy LNB's and a small switch or a DP twin LNB should be OK, but when you get to the three LNB DC power hogs used by Dish your risking a blown internal power supply, this may be un-reparable.

As Arlo mentioned, using the DP 44 power supply to run the triple headed LNB from Dish will keep the receiver from blowing a gasket.

To those that are using the triple headed monster from Dish, even though it looks to be running fine without the DC power inserter, in the long run your risking some serious internal damage if you use more then two LNB's on an FTA receiver, and are not using an externally powered switch, or the DC power inserter for the DP 44 switch. (you don't need the switch)

[Terryl]

And some more info....You cant measure the DC voltage or current out to the LNB without loosing signals, attaching a DVM or current meter without a very special interface with shut down the system, and you may get a false reading.

You may get a DC voltage reading at the end of the coax, or at the LNB input on the receiver, but this is an UN-loaded condition, and will give incorrect readings, all it will tell you is that there is not (or is) a DC short somewhere in the system.

I use a highly modified receiver to do this, this measure's the active system voltage and DC current draw of the LNB(s).

[Arlo]

Absolutely right Terryl. I'd invite doubters to pull the cover and feel the heat sinks on the processor and turbo module.
Hot! Once you inject the correct voltage into the lnb, a vast decrease in temp on the heat sinks.
FTA lnb's are fairly power frugal. DN's, hogs!
The T5 has a header (pair of pins) to allow you to use a small fan inside. I use a repurposed 386 processor fan.
Geeky ones like me. For my LB8000 I traced the display and found the pin for illumination. Used a small solid state relay to power an internal fan which switched on when the receiver is on.

[Terryl]

My audio receiver has a switched AC plug, I use that to power a 120 to 12 volt 5 amp power supply, this runs all the fans (8 total for now) in the stereo cabinet, I build my own cabinets, so this one was designed with air flow, to the HDTV and all the audio, Blue ray and other receivers.

Takes cold air in from the bottom and blows it out the top, all fans are rated under 19 dBA with a very high air flow, can't hear them at all when the stereo or TV is on.

[Arlo]

My audio receiver has a switched AC plug, I use that to power a 120 to 12 volt 5 amp power supply, this runs all the fans (8 total for now) in the stereo cabinet, I build my own cabinets, so this one was designed with air flow, to the HDTV and all the audio, Blue ray and other receivers.

Takes cold air in from the bottom and blows it out the top, all fans are rated under 19 dBA with a very high air flow, can't hear them at all when the stereo or TV is on.

Glad we're on the right page. Same thing I have. I was lucky to find a couple of 4 inch fans with temp. sensors. Pretty slick.
Low volumes on my HT rig, whisper quiet. Crank it up to piss off the neighbors (oh wait...i live on 80 acres) and they ramp up nicely.
Cool lets electronics live.