DPH44 Power Inserter

[WiiLF]

So did a brand new order for a “DPP44 Switch with Inserter/Power supply” on Amazon, and to my surprise this is a full Dish Pro Hybrid Switch Kit, so far so good, I see 1.8mA (where DPP44 is just 1.6mA), ignoring the lack of detail in the listing and leaving buyers in the dark, is this safe for my non-hybrid 1000.2 LNBF?

It is a 28V / 1680mA power Inserter (gray). I don’t want to see sparks, however I figure it is perfectly safe.

Any one have any ideas? Thank you, just being safe. $86 switch kit... (not using switch, strictly).


What is happening, is it is assuming Port #1 at all times as main feed (that is the power Inserter). I have switched coax cables and still the same result, what the hell!?

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[Terryl]

The 1000.2 LNB is used with all joey and hopper setups, so this power inserter will not hurt the LNB, it will only use what it needs to power it's self.

Looks like you don't have the dish aligned right, it should be centered on 119W using TP 12414 on channel 101, this is an open channel.

And you could always return the whole thing as you don't need the switch and just order the power inserter by it's self.


https://www.amazon.com/Dish-Network-DPP44-Power-Inserter/dp/B0016C1PYQ

Are you connecting the receiver to the power inserter's receiver port, if so then don't, this will not work too good with some receivers, you need a second coax run out to the #2 port on the LNB, with the #1 port used for power only.

[WiiLF]

Thank you for your response, that is rock solid. I am having issues locking on, I believe I need to move dish mount a foot over to the other side of what it is mounted on, it is hell of a peak past the house, I think that is the issue.

Now I’m locking onto Nimiq 1 (91W) with 97/98 blue status, and a few open channels work fine but I am on south, knowing this I might get north going.

I ran a separate coax to the dish into port 1 for power Inserter. I ran port 2 to the receiver and all is good. I am keeping both lines separate, according to the countless threads on this.

It will not show any signal at all unless I change port settings to port 1 (this is power, is this normal behaviour)?
Looking at the eyes of the LNB, port 1 is the very left side. And the two other ports are for feeds.

I then tried peaking and locking into what is port 2, nothing. Seems to be port 1 or no dice. Doesn’t make sense.

Unfortunately due to my location, I was limited to one of two products, and at a very high price. I was stuck with the full kit. I might put the switch itself on eBay, being hybrid.. it’s beyond incompatible not to mention irrelevant due to the LNB (1000.2 - 1 receiver).


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Before purchasing another run of rg6 cable and the DPH kit I was only ever locking onto 110W. Funny thing is, I believe I scanned 91W before but it was shown as “Unknown Network” but now I assume because of the fully powered LNB now, that it actually names the sat it finds. Any thoughts?

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(Uploader is flipping my pictures upside down)

[Terryl]

??? Are you trying for the 110, 119, 129 satellites or the 91/82 satellites???

If the 91/82 satellites then you may have problems as the Dish 1000 is setup for 3 satellites not two, you should be using a dish 500 setup for 91/82.

And the Diseqc ports settings are for what satellite, on the D1000 LNB it's Diseqc port #1 for 119W, Diseqc port #2 for 110W and Diseqc port #3 for 129W, Diseqc port #4 is for a second add on LNB for 118W.

And looking at the LNB eyes of the D1000 LNB it is port 1, 2 and 3 left to right, port 4 is an input, looking at the LNB from behind the dish, the center LNB eye is for 119, the LNB eye on the right is for 110 and the one on the left is for 129, this because the signals forn 110 and 129 criss-cross each other as they bounce off the dish.

[WiiLF]

Only 119/110/129W. It just so happened to scan in BEV for the first time, but no I require south.

The Diseqc port settings are for those 3 birds. Again, Only DN. Apologies for the confusion.

** For the port arrangement, should I ignore the fact that port 1 is in fact power and should I configure as normal and ignore that (proceeding with port1,2,3)? Seems to jump onto port 1 not a problem. That’s really unclear in this situation. I know only port 1 has a power pass.

To leave the dish alone, I’ve even briefly (all powered down / unplugged) switched coaxes to rearrange the port layout but the exact same issue (it wants port 1), before reverting back. Again, all safely powered down and done correctly.


Now if I can just continue using all three ports with the power Inserter in the background (separate), I hope that’s okay. I expected the DC pass to port 1 to prevent me from using that port. But who knows, this is a unexplored area I think.

I’ll try peeking 119W as described and try to lock onto the two other birds and call it a day.

Worst case.. I’m in a really bad spot for all three satellites. I might just be stuck with 110W in the end, as has been the case since I bought and installed everything 3 years ago. I thought with this power inserter, it would open up a lot of what was otherwise unavailable, honestly I can’t even tell. I know it’s working as it’s warm.. that’s best I can tell. And I don’t see “unknown network” anymore, maybe that has something to do with the extra DC current now.

[dishuser]

Only 119/110/129W. It just so happened to scan in BEV for the first time, but no I require south.

The Diseqc port settings are for those 3 birds. Again, Only DN. Apologies for the confusion.

** For the port arrangement, should I ignore the fact that port 1 is in fact power and should I configure as normal and ignore that (proceeding with port1,2,3)? Seems to jump onto port 1 not a problem. That’s really unclear in this situation. I know only port 1 has a power pass.

To leave the dish alone, I’ve even briefly (all powered down / unplugged) switched coaxes to rearrange the port layout but the exact same issue (it wants port 1), before reverting back. Again, all safely powered down and done correctly.


Now if I can just continue using all three ports with the power Inserter in the background (separate), I hope that’s okay. I expected the DC pass to port 1 to prevent me from using that port. But who knows, this is a unexplored area I think.

I’ll try peeking 119W as described and try to lock onto the two other birds and call it a day.

Worst case.. I’m in a really bad spot for all three satellites. I might just be stuck with 110W in the end, as has been the case since I bought and installed everything 3 years ago. I thought with this power inserter, it would open up a lot of what was otherwise unavailable, honestly I can’t even tell. I know it’s working as it’s warm.. that’s best I can tell. And I don’t see “unknown network” anymore, maybe that has something to do with the extra DC current now.

you can only get what your pointed at

[Terryl]

Ports 1, 2 or 3 they all have the same output, it's all in the Diseqc switching.

Go to dishpointer.com and inter your address, then under the multi LNb section look for the Dish 1000.2 and select this, then you can zoom into your location and move the marker to where the dish is located this will give you the pointing direction (with a line) in true and magnetic degrees, the elevation and skew for that dish.

Now skew is important on this dish as you need to line it up with the arc of the Clark belt,(where the satellites are) this is different from location to location.

But first you need to find 119W, once you peak on this satellite you can go to 110 and skew the dish to peak on this one, 129 should fall in to line if done right.

Now about 129W it has a funny footprint, in some areas you will need a larger dish then the D1000, take a look at the link below, it is an active footprint map for 129W, select the CONUS beam in the pink area at the top right of the page, then find your location and zoom in, then click on it, this will give you an idea on the size of dish needed for good reception on 129.


https://satbeams.com/footprints?norad=33453

[WiiLF]

Thank you Terryl.

There still lyes the port 1 mystery, but I’ll let it go. “Power to port 1, but must set the T5 to port 1.”

I appreciate the support, guys!