2007 BMW X3 rear prop driveshaft

[leafs99]

Anybody have any good recommendations where to pick up a rear prop driveshaft from a reputable parts supplier.
A google search comes up with multiple suppliers but I am confused why some sites have it as 49.5 in length and other sites have it as 50.5 inch in length.

Is a 1 inch difference a big drawback in installing the part?

Thanks

[dishuser]

Anybody have any good recommendations where to pick up a rear prop driveshaft from a reputable parts supplier.
A google search comes up with multiple suppliers but I am confused why some sites have it as 49.5 in length and other sites have it as 50.5 inch in length.

Is a 1 inch difference a big drawback in installing the part?

Thanksdo you not have old drive shaft?
cause 1mm can make a difference let alone an inch

[leafs99]

Yep..it’s still installed in the vehicle but private mechanic (neighbour)told me it needs to be replaced and he doesn’t know the exact size. I definitely don’t want to engage a bmw mechanic/ dealership or might as well kiss my paycheques good bye. Lol

Car is driveable so I would like to pick it up before pulling out the old one. Neighbour has worked on the car in the past and does quality work for a fraction of the price of a bmw mechanic.

[Gabacho]

If your still driving it and there is no vibration why do you think it's bad?

[leafs99]

Vibration and noise is noticeable when accelerating around 60km and over. Mechanic saw discolouration on the ujoints.

[dnasp002]

should be able to change the u-joints for a fraction of the cost of a new shaft

there is also a center support bearing on that shaft and it looks like there is a flex joint that is made of rubber on the front mount, both of them could be causing the vibration

as for the different lengths it could be different transmissions or transfer cases depending on the specs of the vehicle would be my guess.

if you order a drive shaft without knowing the exact measurement make sure you include all the relevant info, whether it's 4 wheel/all wheel drive and whether it's automatic as well as the engine size, and make sure the shaft includes the flex joint, center support bearing and flange.

[steveOtoo]

Would definitely look at replacing the center support bearing first. Had to replace mine on a Tacoma. Pretty easy job.

[The Noof]

Anybody have any good recommendations where to pick up a rear prop driveshaft from a reputable parts supplier.
A google search comes up with multiple suppliers but I am confused why some sites have it as 49.5 in length and other sites have it as 50.5 inch in length.

Is a 1 inch difference a big drawback in installing the part?

Thanks

As DU pointed out,there's no room for error .There is no "slip yoke" on that design, so you will need to measure the exact length of your driveshaft.Consult with the supplier for their recommended method.

[dnasp002]

looks to me like it does have a slip shaft

it's in the middle where the support bearing is mounted

[Terryl]

Unless the drive shaft's them selves have a serious ding or dent in them, I would not see the need for replacing the whole shaft assembly, and there are two types of driveshafts for this model.

On one type there are two flex discs at each end and a slip joint/center bearing in the approximate middle, the flex disc's should be replaceable by removal of 12 bolts, 6 at each end, 6 for the drive shaft and 3 each for the flex disc to the transmission/differential, the center support is two bolts only.

On the driveshaft with true "U" joints the "U" joints are not replaceable (in some not at all) without a press and proper tools for this job, then you would need to replace the shafts them selves, or take them to a drive line repair shop.

And if you have never worked under a car before doing a major job like this, removing the drive shaft can be a dangerous job if the car is not properly supported so be very careful.

I use rockauto for parts, good stuff and reliable.

[leafs99]

Great advice from everybody. I looked into rockauto and they have 2 type of driveshafts mentioned below for the x3 model. My model is the bmw x3.0si but I am told the x3 and x3.0si use the same drive shaft. I guess I better get the mechanic to take a closer look at it before ordering parts. Do you think both of the parts below are interchangeable from rockauto?

CARDONE 657045 {#26107564740} Remanufactured Info
Rear; with 49-1/4" (1251 mm) Long Driveshaft

ULTRA-POWER 936593 {#26117502959} Info
w/AUTO TRANS, REAR; 3.0SI
extended 49.5"
compressed 48.5'

[Putski]

I would do as mentioned above replace the u joints and hanger bearing
, and will be like new
Some of them old u joints have to be heated up till the pop then bang them out.
Good luck on what ever you choose to do.

[leafs99]

Those u-joints are not replaceable on that model of bmw unless you have a press. As I dug deeper today, I confirmed that the driveshaft is Drive shaft assy rear L=1283MM or 50.5 inches OEM PN number 26107564740 .

According to my earlier post CARDONE PN 657045 {OEM PN #26107564740} Remanufactured
Rear; with 49-1/4" (1251 mm) Long Driveshaft, it should work since it has the same OEM pn number.

I think the Slip Yoke/Shaft that member Dnasp002 mentioned in an earlier post must be the reason for the difference of length since the function of the slip yoke is what allows drive shafts and PTOs to flex or “slip” with their given application.

The slip yoke extends and vice versa during normal operations.

The mechanic keeps insisting the u-joints are bad.

thanks

[steveOtoo]

Center support bearing...............

https://www.rockauto.com/info/107/26127521855__ra_p.jpg

[leafs99]

That’s pretty cheap and easily replaceable. What’s the symptom of a defective centre support bearing. My vibration starts around 60km and a loud humming noise is prevalent.

[steveOtoo]

Mine was at 35mph...................

[dnasp002]

The mechanic keeps insisting the u-joints are bad.

thanks

he's the only one that's actually looked at them so he would have a better idea of what's going on than we do :)