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View Full Version : How to Make an L-Band Signal Splitter



Zilog80
03-25-2011, 10:05 PM
Here’s a trick I used a few years ago when I first played with digital IRD’s on my old C-Band dish. Back in old C-Band days LNB’s could easily cost upwards of 500 bucks and were often hard to get. Not like today when you can buy most types of LNB’s off the shelf at most FTA dealers for less than 50 bucks. Electrocuting them could be expensive.

So I wanted to leave the power alone that was being fed from my old analogue receiver out to the dish. But at the same time I wanted to pick off the L-Band feed from the big mesh monster and look at it with the brand spanking new Pansat.

I was worried about a conflict between the power from the analogue IRD and that from the Pansat. In retrospect I now know two things about this worry. One is that either IRD could supply the voltage needed out at the dish without hurting the LNB. The other was that I could have fed the picked off signal from the old system into the IF loop out of the Pansat and avoided a power conflict as it does not supply power on that port.

But rather than have a “one or the other” design I wanted both, (There were still lots of analogue to watch back then. Like NASA for example.), and to be able to tune across the C-band with the digital IRD independent of the old Analogue.

So here is what I did. I made myself an L-band Splitter out of an old TV splitter.

I grabbed a TV splitter and pried the back off it. Inside there are all sorts of stuff, coils, caps and things like that. I stripped the works out leaving only the three F-connectors attached to the box. (You cannot just use a normal TV splitter if you have not already discovered this.)

Then I added a new wire from the common F-Connector to one of the splitter output F-connectors. This becomes the power feed side of the splitter so you connect the LNB to the common F-connector and the receiver or IRD to the F-connector with that new wire on it. Now an important step.

Turn the splitter over and mark a big black line between those two F-connectors so you can see which ones they are when you connect things up. (Assuming of course you will be putting the back on the splitter once again.)

Finally connect a capacitor between the common or single F-connector (now with a wire soldered to it) over to the un-used F-connector. This will be the connection used to pick off the L-band signal and feed it to your digital IRD. The capacitor acts as a DC block preventing the digital IRD power from conflicting with the voltage from the old analogue receiver. Use a 50 pf capacitor or there abouts. Not too critical and it only affects the signal strength somewhat.

One other note. In my old analogue system the polarity of the LNB is controlled by the analogue receiver and therefore it means you need to manually flip the polarity as you scan away with the digital receiver. Most channels seem to be on the horizontal polarity but some of the “good stuff” is over on the vertical.

Z

Costactc
03-25-2011, 10:27 PM
Just out of curiosity, what exactly can you pick up on L band.

jvvh5897
03-26-2011, 07:27 PM
The L band is the IF feed to the satellite reciever.

You can buy L band capable splitters with one side DC blocked at K mart. Think they are under $10 bucks.

Zilog80
03-26-2011, 10:13 PM
Just out of curiosity, what exactly can you pick up on L band.

L-Band is the down converted transponder feed from most LNB's. Remember the olden days of LNA's? They were simply an amplifier and what you got at the end of the coax was still at transponder frequencies or 3.7 to 4.2 gigs. Then you had to build or buy a down converter to get the signal(s) down to a user friendly part of the spectrum.

That device was simply an oscillator and a mixer.

The trouble with that was getting the noise figure down and then getting the (stable) signal into the receiver without tremendous losses. So enter the LNB. Or Low Noise Block down converter. By locating everything out at the dish and bringing into the receiver an intermediate frequency many issues could be avoided.

So the industry settled upon a standard IF spectrum of the L-Band and asked for clear channel licensing on it to prevent nearby ground transmitter from over whelming the input to the satellite receivers. So most of the LNB's now down convert to L-Band:

(Chart may not display correctly without spaces)

L-band-------C-band----------------Ku-band
Freq. (MHz) Freq. (MHz) Channel Freq. (MHz)
950---------4200 --------------------11700
970---------4180------------24------11720
990---------4160------------23------11740
1010--------4140-----------22-------11760
1030 4120 21 11780
1050 4100 20 11800
1070 4080 19 11820
1090 4060 18 11840
1110 4040 17 11860
1130 4020 16 11880
1150 4000 15 11900
1170 3980 14 11920
1190 3960 13 11940
1210 3940 12 11960
1230 3920 11 11980
1250 3900 10 12000
1270 3880 9 12020
1290 3860 8 12040
1310 3840 7 12060
1330 3820 6 12080
1350 3800 5 12100
1370 3780 4 12120
1390 3760 3 12140
1410 3740 2 12160
1430 3720 1 12180
1450--------3700---------------------12200

This conversion is valid when the local oscillator frequency is 5150 MHz for C-band and 10750 MHz for Ku-band (Linear). Hence we generaly are using 5150 for our LNB's for a blind scan.

But the L-Band has all sorts of "other stuff" on it as well. For example, Long distance or overseas telephone channels. If you remember the old Comsat satellites they were full of little special SCPC signals on them. When you do a blind scan you often see signals present but get no channels on them. Ever wonder what they carry?

The new receivers help take the hard work out of scanning but if you have some of the older receivers they are a lot more versatile for hunting around. A good place to look is the very upper and very lower edges of the L-Band as they are called "Edge of Band Channels." Because they are on the edge of the band-width filters of the satellites. Since the sat-builders cannot guarantee the performance of these channels as the filters can "fall off" their specs, they market those channels cheaper. Thats where the experimenting or specialty feeds hang out. They can use a link budget that is less constrained there.

A subject for another time maybe. And yes, for 10 bucks you can buy a power inserter that will do the trick but I prefer experimenting myself.

Z

Costactc
03-26-2011, 10:28 PM
Thanks for that explanation, fascinating.

Bigpineguy Retired
03-26-2011, 10:33 PM
Love it! Nice work and thanks for taking the time to share....look forward to reading more from you...


BPG~