Moved a cable and having problems

[gaapgroup]

I wanted to move the cable to the other part of the room, cut the wire and thread it up the floor. Everything worked fine prior to doing this, but now I have no signal on that STB. The other STB works fine....could it be that when I cut the wire that it blew out the switch? I have a DP Twin LNB connected to (what it looks like) the High Frequency grounding blocks....4 connections in all. Looks like 110 and 119 connected in the one side feeding the connection to each STB separately. Sorry, I am not that knowledgeable on these connections....just looked at the pictures that were provided on the site. Any help on getting the other connection back would be appreciated. If I need to change the Diseqc and suggestions would be appreciated.

[zoogor]

did you remove the coax without shutting off the receiver from the rear switch? if so then if your lucky...all you blew was the switch. always turn off rear switch before removing or changing anything.

[gaapgroup]

The STB was removed prior to cut. Would cutting blow the switch without the STB connected?

[gaapgroup]

One other question....the grounding blocks I have are attached to the house. do they act as the switch, or do I need to trace all the cables to find it?

[JCO]

The STB was removed prior to cut. Would cutting blow the switch without the STB connected?

No it wont, there is no power running to the switch if no receiverS are connected.. Make shure there is no stay bit of the wire sheath making a short in the connection.
A grounding block is not a switch..

[gaapgroup]

Cut the cable to ensure that there were no frays....still no signal. Any suggestions?

[eyeQ]

Cut the cable to ensure that there were no frays....still no signal. Any suggestions?

need to reconnect the cables to your receiver:noidea:

[zoogor]

hows your quality, or do you mean quality? you might be on a tp with nothing on it.

[gaapgroup]

I reconnected the receiver and this is the reading I am getting. 17% and 0% I am on 119W TP 12253 on port 1. LNB DPLNBF.....Diseqc 1.0 These setting worked before and work on the other STB. I had working signal on this cable before I cut it. Could it be a switch, or do the grounding blocks act as a switch? Thanks for all help and suggestions.

[zoogor]

yeah it could be but if the coax is fine and you unhooked every thing properly and the new connector is put on proper it would be very coincidental that the switch is bad. just try a different switch port and set it properly in your menu. turn off power from the back before unhooking coax.

[JCO]

Cut the cable to ensure that there were no frays....still no signal. Any suggestions?

How did you reconect the cable. Can you post some pics.. I hope you didnt try putting a splitter in there , it will never work .. You can only reconect with a barrel connector..

I just reread your post and what you call a grounding block sounds like a switch.. You seem to have 2 receivers also.. MAybe describe whats written on that connector(Grounding Block) I got a feeling you blew the switch..

[D-troit]

I reconnected the receiver and this is the reading I am getting. 17% and 0% I am on 119W TP 12253 on port 1. LNB DPLNBF.....Diseqc 1.0 These setting worked before and work on the other STB. I had working signal on this cable before I cut it. Could it be a switch, or do the grounding blocks act as a switch? Thanks for all help and suggestions.

The first conus TP on 119 is 12297. You are on a spotbeam on TP 12253 and wont get picture on that TP no matter how strong your signal is. Change to TP 12297 and see if you get signal and a lock in your setup menu. I know this may be a dumb question but are you sure you reconnected the coax to lnb in on back of stb.

[satchick]

What kind of connector did you put on the cable when you redid it? If it's one of those twist-on connectors, replace it with a crimp or compression connector. No matter what kind of connector you used, make sure it's installed correctly. You didn't cut off the shield, right?

If you have a multimeter, disconnect the switch end of the coax, and with the meter set to measure resistance, test from the center conductor to the outside of the connector. It should read an infinite resistance. If you get a reading, there's a short that needs to be fixed.

[JCO]

The first conus TP on 119 is 12297. You are on a spotbeam on TP 12253 and wont get picture on that TP no matter how strong your signal is. Change to TP 12297 and see if you get signal and a lock in your setup menu. I know this may be a dumb question but are you sure you reconnected the coax to lnb in on back of stb.

Both his s and his q are way down 17 and 0 indicate a bad conection to the lnb.

[D-troit]

Both his s and his q are way down 17 and 0 indicate a bad conection to the lnb.

I agree JCO his signal strength indicates his stb is not communicating with the lnb. Usually a coaz short will cause the stb to go through the rebooting cycle maybe the lnb went bad? Would like to see what hes getting on the conus Tps to see if the strength and quality improves at all. Strange it was working then went bad when cable was cut and moved.

[Terryl]

Was the other receiver OFF when he cut the coax?

If not then the switch (if he has one) may be fubar, the other receiver will put out DC and the switch could (depending on the type) feed DC back to the disconnected ports. (not likely if the switch is working right)

If he doesn't have a switch (he said DP twin LNB) then one of the LNB outputs may have died or been affected if the the other receiver was not totally off when he cut the coax.

And if the coax has been in place for a long time (years) it could have stiffened up due to age and something cracked inside or was bent too far and kinked during re-install, this could cause a short inside the coax.

Did you have to add more coax to the old stuff to make it to the other side of the room? If so what type of coax did you use? There are several types of RG-6, some used for TV or cable wont work for satellite.


An "S" of 17 indicates a resistive short somewhere in the coax, if it was zero it would indicate the short was close to the receiver (no DC to the LNB) I would check the coax back to the LNB, look for a staple or coax nail through the coax if you had to re-attach it.

I dont know how it was run to the other side, was it under the floor, in the attic, outside, how?

[D-troit]

Wondering the same thing was the other box on when the coaz was cut. Might have blown a Tip42 transistor if the other line was still on. Might need to check the box the new line is on for that.

[Terryl]

He mentioned that it was in his first post, if he doesn't have a switch (we need to find out if he does) then the coax to that box may have an internal short or that output on the LNB may be fubar.

[gaapgroup]

OK, got it! Here's what happened. When shoving the double co-ax up the floor, the opening was too small causing the two pieces to split. I pulled it all back down....saw the other wire and threaded it up. I immediately got great signal and quality but was using one of those twist on's as well, so took your advice and crimped a proper connection. Thanks so much for all of your help....now the hard part comes connecting the NFHD to NOI so it does not screw the other STB's connection up! (yes, I have two codes) Thanks again and I am really sorry for wasting all of your time because of my stupid mistake!!!!

[Terryl]

Great to hear that you got it fixed and glad you reported back with what you found, it may help others with this same problem.

And don't worry about wasting our time, it gave us all something to do on a Sunday without football. (I know I can watch re-runs)

[D-troit]

OK, got it! Here's what happened. When shoving the double co-ax up the floor, the opening was too small causing the two pieces to split. I pulled it all back down....saw the other wire and threaded it up. I immediately got great signal and quality but was using one of those twist on's as well, so took your advice and crimped a proper connection. Thanks so much for all of your help....now the hard part comes connecting the NFHD to NOI so it does not screw the other STB's connection up! (yes, I have two codes) Thanks again and I am really sorry for wasting all of your time because of my stupid mistake!!!!

Glad you got it worked out. You havent wasted anybodys time we are all glad to have helped and I know I have pulled some pretty dumb stuff myself so dont feel alone. lol

[Terryl]

I cant count how many times I've put a staple through the coax (usually under the crawl space or in the attic) and spent all day looking for the problem.

[twinbee]

Here is how to check the cable for a short..

With an ohm-meter, and with the cable disconnected at both ends, check that there is "infinite" ohms between the center conductor and the cable sheath / screw. Do the same for the other end of the cable. If you have a 75-ohm terminator, you can place it on one end of the cable and check for 75 ohms on the other end of the cable...

If the cable has a short in it, it is likely you blew a voltage regulator (transistor) inside the receiver, that controls power to the LNB. This happened to me. Some soldering is in your future if that is the case. You can find this out by CAREFULLY checking the voltage coming out of the box at the satellite jack. If it is 13 or 18 Volts, you are in good shape. If it is 20 or 0 volts, you have a blown voltage regulator. You can find other posts that talk about how to replace this part.

Hope this helps.