Coax flaring tool?

[Pollypurabred]

Last year I finally moved to the one step coax stripper and waterproof compression fittings. (If you haven't yet done this I would definitely suggest you do this.) BUT I did run across a short because I did miss a couple of wire wrappings of a RG6/U inner shield and DID NOT run a continuity test. Got complacent!

So my question is do you guys use any type of shield flaring tool to peel back the inner shield or just rely on your fingernails?

Any tips would be appreciated.

[Terryl]

This puppy will do the job.


http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/Paladin-RG59-RG6-RG6-Quad-Flaring-Tool/726309.aspx

[harryb]

http://www.idealindustries.com/media/img/products/datacomm/product/stripmaster_coaxial.jpg

This is what I use and never had a problem

[jazzman]

Don't know of any flairing tool..I've probably installed over a hundred ends over the years first just usind a pocket knife the moved up tp a one step stripping tool and an RG-6 crimper. I always just twist the inner shields a bit and inspect them closely before crimping the end on. Never had a problem yet but yeah, them little tiny wires can wreak havock if they touch the inner copper lol.

[Condor]

As Terry points out.. I do it as you and poke my fingers doing it by "hand"...As I am too cheap to buy the tool...lol

[Gold]

I like Thomas & Betts Snap n Seal connectors, so I use their compression tool for RG6, & RG11

[CrisisWhatCrisis]

Hi I use this little item... [URL="http://xxx.bo-dickey.com/"]/URL] it is a time saver, and always assures of a perfect fit of the compression fitting. I swear by it. Just my 2 cents worth. Sure there are cheaper ways , BUT this is foolproof and consistent.
It cost about $30 CDN for what I remember

[Pollypurabred]

Appreciate all the replies. Have done searches and came up with the same 3 or 4 tools but the reviews are not too good across the board. It probably has a lot to do with cable manufacturing and could be even weather related.

I did check out what Crisis linked to, Bo-Dickey 2K4 Super Pro Bundle, which if nothing else was an interesting read. Might try that one just to get the installation tool that is bundle to the flaring tool.

As always, looking for that perfect tool.

[Pollypurabred]

Sort of a follow up to selecting a cable flaring tool:

A local installer let me try his Paladin pencil-type flaring tool, linked to by Terryl, and while it worked well with Carol RG6/U coax (this year House Depot), it did not work with Belden RG6/U (>5 yr old) , both with 18 awg solid center conductor.

This same person told me that their group have tried different tools over the years and nothing works across the board, except fingernails I guess.
So unless you work with the same type of cable all the time and do it for a living, don't waste your money is basically what they inferred.

Since this is the same generality, do you or do you not stripped the final foil away from the center insulator (foam) when working with quad coax? They same group was 75/25, leave foil, while most videos I've seen don't really say or show.

[Quantum-Entangled]

Dude, try not to make it to complicated. The only thing u really need is a F-Type compression tool (HV-508). Its worth every penny of the $30. Solid tool that will last until u lose it somewheres. Once u done a ton, u can prep the wire perfect with a knife or box cutter. The stripper is easy and cheap but really not necessary, very quickly .

Always snip a fresh end to work with, then 1/4 inch foil before 1/4 inch bare coppper wire. As for the steel hairs, just brush them back like peeling a banana. With a close look, you can see if you got all of them or not. Once you do have them all brushed backed, put the end on and compress it.

You should have the copper wire very slightly passed the steel end and if you look straight inside, the white foam should be as snug as it can get to the end where the copper wire first appears.

Give a slight tug just to be sure, and any issue you may encounter after that....its not the ends. I think someone already mentioned the Thomas and Betts ends, put those ends properly on a fresh wire and it should last you 7-8 years. I change all my wires more frequently than that but you could push them that far. So spending the extra money on the new weatherproof ends (if we are thinkin of the same ones), you need a new type of tool and its not necessary. Your gonna change them after 7 years anyways.

There is the new R11 cable but i have not tested that at all.


Wasting time or money on trying to test your cables is just that, a waste. You should know fairly early if any of your cables are bad.

I understand the looking for perfection :thumbsup: , but you will drive yourself crazy that way.

You dont really need a "flaring tool" do you?? :tehe:

[satchick]

I've never used a flaring tool either, as somebody else pointed out they're more trouble than they're worth... All I use is a good compression tool, and Corning/Gilbert connectors. The Gilbert connectors are slightly cheaper than T&B, but they're still approved by all of the satellite providers and cable companies. I prefer the ratcheting compression tools, they're a little more expensive but I find that you have less of a chance of messing up the end.


Wasting time or money on trying to test your cables is just that, a waste
You should always test a new run before connecting any equipment, to make sure that you won't short out the power supplies. It takes 5 seconds with a DMM to verify that there are no shorts in the cable. Testing for opens isn't a huge deal in a receive only system, but if the cable was intended for a transmitter you'd want to make sure that it was perfect.

[Terryl]

If you all are worried about the tiny metal flakes that could cause problems then use an old tooth brush, 2 or 3 swipes before the connector goes on and the end is clean. (use without tooth paste)

[Pollypurabred]

Good ideas from all. Appreciate the feedback and I especially like Terryl's suggestion since I always carry a spare toothbrush anyway. One never knows....

Actually being in the Instrument business, one or two stray strands can bring down a 100 million dollar operation, so we need to be a little bit anal. But I must admit, good work habits carry over as I do not like mistakes or call backs. So yes, we check everything!

Okay enough about the job. My concerns, which I did not state earlier, are about frequencies. Since companies are always pushing the limits, will leaving the foam foil intact, help to insure a better separation of skin and analog/digital frequencies and help keep the signal intact <3GHz? Other articles/forums that I have read are divided (at Sat freq) on this.

BTW, I do use the T&B RG6/U waterproof connectors along with Klein compression and one-pass stripping tools. I only help friends out so I only need these tools 2-3 times a year.