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I have a 1995 whirlpool range and want to replace the receptacle on one burner. I bought a replacement part and diagrams on the internet show you cut the wires on the one receptacle and then connect the new wires with wire connectors. Sales man at store said the internet picture is miss leading and that the current is too large.
Anybody out there who can help me. Thanks Derek
is this the site you checked out?
Code:http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/whirlpool/whirlpool_range_product_list.html
Would you be able to post a model number and if possible the part number of the part you purchased?
Most receptacle blocks for top elements already have the leads on them.
So you have to remove the wires from the switch and plug the new ones in.
You shouldn't have to cut any wires.
But there are some models that sell a kit that has 4 ceramic marrets and 4 heat shrink covers for where you make the connection.
If the kit doesn't have ceramic marrets I wouldn't use it as it they could melt and short out.
Model # is WCE 36300.
You are correct that the wires should go to the switch. I took the front off and cannot access switch.
Then i took part of the back off , more like a cover. Then there is the real metal back but the small screws on the outside did not allow me to move the back to get to the burner switch. Not sure how to access the back, there are so many wires coming out in the middle but cannot figure out how to get to the switch. There are 2 large half inch by half inch notches? at the top back on each side? DO they come off? How do they come off and how do they go back in? Does it involve a special tool that requires a service man or is it something I could do?
Thanks LoginFreak for your reply to my initial question.Derek
The model number is not coming up on the whirlpool website..
Did you get it from the range?
On many whirlpool models.. The back doesn't come off like it used to.
The console actually flips ahead.
If it's the type that flips it will have 4 or 5 screws along the top back of the range. And possibly two more screws(one on each side) holding the two side/end caps in place.
Once the screws are off you can lift the console a bit and then tilt it towards the front.
When trying to get it back in place you just have to make sure to place the side/end caps back in the proper slots to make it a tight fit.
Now some only have two screws to take off. And they would be found at the top under the light cover. There will be one on each side and normally would be silver screws and not black. And they will be star/square bit screws.
So it will depend on the setup of your range.
If you are able to take a couple of picks of the front and back then I would be able to know more. And if the model number wasn't taken off the range pull the bottom drawer out a bit and look on the frame and the model number will be there somewhere.
LoginF..you were absolutely right on about the console moving forward by removing those 2 screws under the light. Replaced the receptacle and the light for the burner now comes on but there is no heat from the element. I guess there is more wrong than just the receptacle...I;m guessing the switch on the burner must be toast too. Just wondering Login Freak, would I be able to replace the switch, now that you have taught me how to open the console? You have been very helpful.
Thanks, Derek
You should be able to replace the switch now that you know how to get to it.
Just make sure to unplug the range before hand. Because there is 240 volts going to the switch and you don't want to get a shock from that..
The replacement switch should be pretty much the same.
With a L1 L2 P H1 and H2 for the markings on the switch.
L1 and L2 are power going in, P is for the light, and H1, H2 go to the block and element.
The wires going to H1 and H2 can be reversed and it will work the same.
L1 and L2 shouldn't be reversed tho. If you do reverse them on some switches the indicator light will stay on.
It's best to just change it wire for wire if possible.
Now I'm just wondering if you had the element tested? It should give continuity when tested. And if this model has fuses. Have you tried replacing the fuses or testing them?
If the block was bad and the pins that plug into the block on the element are pitted or corroded it wont always work..
LoginF...I tried the element in another receptacle and it worked. I never thought that the fuse could be bad if the burner light came on.But I will check. I will also look at the pins..thanks for the info.
And for sure I'll turn off the power ....lol...
Thanks again for your input, very informative and accurate.
Derek