Roper dryer runs, but not heat

I am hoping the right person will see this.
I have a Roper Dryer. Supposedly heavy duty extra large capacity, or so it says on the top.
The problem is that it starts and the drum turns, but not heat. I looked through the posted tutorials and have some good ideas on what may be the problem, but I was hoping for some input for my particular model. It is about 7 years old. Heat has come on and off in the past, but now is not recovering.

model: rex4634kq0
serial: ml1311965
Type: d433-ele-2406028-fm54
Thanks for any assistance

check the heater elements ....

The motor may run if one phase is down, you need a DVM (set to the 250 to 600 volts AC mode) to look at the plug, with it un plugged from the wall you should see 220 to 240 volts across the two top sockets, and 110 to 115 volts across one of the top two to the ground socket or outside of the socket metal case.

If one side is down (under 100 volts AC) then check the breakers for the dryer, it should be a bridged dual breaker of 30 to 40 amps, one side can go bad or trip, fully cycle both (off then back on) and look at the wall plug again.

If that side is still down then you have a loose connection somewhere and it would be advisable to call in an electrician.

To add to Terryl's and sumps posts .. Some Electrical panels have fuses instead of breakers..
If u do not have or know how to use a volt meter....
Easy way is to locate the two dryer fues in the panel and
Replace the both fuses.. :) one of them is probable burnt.. Motor runs on 110/120 volts and heater elements run on 220/240 volts..
The element requires both fuses to supply the 220 Volts..
30 amp is nominal for a fused panel..

If you find that you have the correct votage at the outlet i would remove the rear panel and check for burnt wiring at the heater tube for bad terminals or wire burned in two. If the wiring looks ok there are two Thermostats usually mounted on the tube to protect from overheat. One looks like a circular disc mounted near the bottom of the tube and the other mounted higher up that is usually rectangular white ceramic. You can check these by removing one wire from these devices and use a voltmeter to determine if there open or closed in the same way you would check a normal fuse. The element itself can be checked this way also. Make sure your venting is not blocked cause this can lead to an overheat......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveOtoo

If you find that you have the correct votage at the outlet i would remove the rear panel and check for burnt wiring at the heater tube for bad terminals or wire burned in two. If the wiring looks ok there are two Thermostats usually mounted on the tube to protect from overheat. One looks like a circular disc mounted near the bottom of the tube and the other mounted higher up that is usually rectangular white ceramic. You can check these by removing one wire from these devices and use a voltmeter to determine if there open or closed in the same way you would check a normal fuse. The element itself can be checked this way also. Make sure your venting is not blocked cause this can lead to an overheat......

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If I may add..
I see that u mention the outlet...
If the dryer is "unplugged" as suggested in the above post.. u are ok to preform the tests on the dryer with an ohm meter

As a lot of "old" dryer installs have 'no' outlet.. Power comes directly from the panel to the dryer..
Never remove any part of the dryer with power on..

Anyone attempting repairs/checking with an ohm meter..
If there is no "plug attached" PLEASE remove power to the dryer from the electrical panel before attempting any of the above suggestions..

.

Thanks to all who posted a reply.
The problem seems to be solved, at least for now.
Earlier, I had to re-arrange some wiring in the fuse box due to another household electrical problem. The wires coming to the fuse box from the dryer had been placed on a 15 amp fuse. I moved them to a 30 amp fuse and now my dryer has heat.
Glad I didn't have to mess with thermostats and heating elements.
Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rotorocket

Thanks to all who posted a reply.
The problem seems to be solved, at least for now.
Earlier, I had to re-arrange some wiring in the fuse box due to another household electrical problem. The wires coming to the fuse box from the dryer had been placed on a 15 amp fuse. I moved them to a 30 amp fuse and now my dryer has heat.
Glad I didn't have to mess with thermostats and heating elements.
Thanks

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Glad you go it sorted out but one concern.

Most 15 amp fuses wont handle a dryer, they will pop right away, and the wire size for the dryer (10 gauge or larger) should not have been able to fit the hole for the 15 amp circuit, this is a safety factor, to prevent over sized wiring from being used.

Does the dryer require a 30 amp circuit?

If so did you wire (or someone else) it with 10 gauge copper wire?

If not then what size did you (they) use?

FYI to all going to do their own home electrical work.

Circuit ratings, and wire requirements.

House wall plugs = 15 amps, this takes 14 gauge wire, this is called 14-2, 1 black 1 white and a ground, you have to buy 20 amp rated plugs to use 12 gauge wire. (note, some back wire plugs and switches rated at 15 amps will oly take a 14 gauge wire, a 12 gauge will not fit the hole, its too big)

Light circuits, most will take a 20 amp circuit, 20 amps = 12 gauge wire, wire for this is called 12-2, 1 hot wire (black) 1 neutral (white) and a ground, 3 way and 4 way light circuits take 12-3, 1 black, 1 red, 1 white, 1 ground.

Appliances like dryers and room heaters rated at 30 amps will take 10 gauge wire, dryers some baseboard room heaters are 220 volt, these will take 1 black and 1 red copper wire, one for each electrical phase, some dryers need a neutral this is white, wire for this is called 10-3, 2 hot wires a neutral and a ground.

Electric wall ovens and stoves, some wall ovens and stoves need 40 amps at 220 volts, this is 8 gauge copper wire called 8-3 or electrical service wire, it will be 1 black, 1 red, 1 white and a ground, some stoves and ovens only need the 2 hots (red/black) without the neutral, just don't use it.

Anything over 40 amps I would call an electrician to do the job as it gets very tricky to do the connections with 6 gauge copper. (split bolts and tons of tape)

I dont recommend using aluminum wire, some will be tempted to use it as it is cheaper, but you have to go to the next larger size to get the same current capacity as copper wire, and most electrical appliances above 30 amps only use pigtails, these pigtails are striped copper leads, copper and aluminum don't mix, you have to use very special connectors to connect copper and aluminum, doing otherwise can cause a fire or an unsafe connection and you could have trouble.

Oops too much coffee again, sorry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Terryl

Glad you go it sorted out but one concern.

Most 15 amp fuses wont handle a dryer, they will pop right away, and the wire size for the dryer (10 gauge or larger) should not have been able to fit the hole for the 15 amp circuit, this is a safety factor, to prevent over sized wiring from being used.

Does the dryer require a 30 amp circuit?

If so did you wire (or someone else) it with 10 gauge copper wire?

If not then what size did you (they) use?

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U seem to be assuming that everyone is using a breaker panel.. and while I can agree with the highlighted parts in relation to breaker panels and there breakers.
Just about any size wire up to an including #10 will fit under the screw of the 301 (15 amp) or 302 (15/20/25/30 amp)head..
BTW ..I too would be interested in hearing what size wire is running the dryer because as u say #10 would be minimum...

Yah I keep forgetting about the old ways, you know I can't even find a fuse panel at any of the hardware stores around here! They are all breaker panels, I can find fuses but not the panels, they have to be special ordered.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Terryl

Yah I keep forgetting about the old ways, you know I can't even find a fuse panel at any of the hardware stores around here! They are all breaker panels, I can find fuses but not the panels, they have to be special ordered.

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They sent em all down here..lol :)

15/20 Amp motor and/or controls

15/20 Amp heater element

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