Alot about Whirlpool, Inglis, Kitchen Aid and Kenmore Washers

Hello to all members!

I suppose it's time for me to start making more posts on different type of appliances.

The first post was on the whirlpool, inglis, admiral, and kitchenaid dryer. Those four are all the same.

Next I will go onto another appliance, I have some pictures on a whirlpool washer so I will start with that.

When it comes to washers. Most brands are slightly different. They all work on the same basic principle but might have a few different parts to get there.

The whirlpool washer is BY FAR the best washer around to date.
It might break down like all the others. But are very worth while to fix and much easier than any other brand!

Most of the calls will take me no more than 45 minutes and that is even if I have to change the transmission.
And other washer would take double the time.

Ok so lets start with how a washer works and what makes the clothes come clean.
I know many people will say.... "I've been doing laundry for 20 to 30 years now I don't need to be told how it works" But the funny thing is most people put the clothes in and never think about what can make it clean better.

All the older washers were belt driven. And the transmissions and motors were built much much stronger. Now I'm not saying new machines are all crap. But most of them do not last like the old ones no matter how they are used.

The older washers had such strong transmissions that even when the washers were over loaded they still washed ok because nothing could stop them from working. The machine would go no matter what. And sometimes the belt would slip but would still not destroy the machine.

The way a washer works is with the friction of clothes rubbing against other clothes.
I know most people thing it's the agitator but all the agitator does is spin the clothes around to make it rub all over.
And thats why DUAL AGITATORS that have a top moving part work better because the clothes move a lot more.

This is the reason all the new energy Efficient washers work.
There is just enough water to mix the soap and get the clothes wet. And the clothes rub against each other during the whole wash and rinse.

Now I know most people don't know how to measure how much clothes to wash in the basket.
Because in reality no one is showed by a tech. Normally they take the word of the salesman and that is usually wrong unless they are very well informed or retired techs and even then I have seen some salesman say things that will make the machine break down much faster!!

Well the easiest way to know is to put the clothes in BEFORE the water is put in and only put the clothes up to the last hole in the basket.
NOW I AM NOT SAYING TO PUSH THE CLOTHES DOWN.
If you do this then there will be much more clothes then there should be.
The clothes should be put in loosely.

The new washers are very different for this fact. The washers have a bigger capacity but have weaker transmissions and weaker motors.. So just for those facts they will not last as long.

The new washers are rated by Cubic Foot Capacity. But really it's supposed to be by weight.

Most domestic top load washers are able to take from 10 to 12 pounds of clothes when wet.

Most people will put from 15 to 20 pounds of clothes. And this is because you can actually fit that much in there depending on how heavy the clothes get when wet.

The reason I talk about weight is not just for the washing. It's when the washer goes into spin. If there is too much weight in the basket it has a hard time to start turning.
Most washers have a clutch that makes the tub turn or a brake but essentially they are almost all the same for how they work but they look different..

Here is a picture of the whirlpool clutch.
Part number is 285785

http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages...2/00095123.jpg

Now this clutch has a certain give point. What I mean is if there is too much weight it will slip and sometimes the tub will start to spin but other times you might burn the clutch and THE CLOTHES WILL SPIN BUT STAY WET.
This happens when the washer cannot spin fast enough. Just because it's spinning doesn't mean it's spinning fast enough.

I've been on many washers that needed clutches because there were blankets washed that were way too big and wore the clutch out.

This should be all for clutches.

Another thing that can cause a washer to not spin your clothes dry is the lid switch..
The lid switch has a different function for many different washers but on most it will control the agitation and spin of the washer.

The lid switch is normally found on the cabinet where the lid closes for the whirlpool washers but the new washers have a hidden lid switch and I will have a picture of the lid switch at a later time.
But if you look at the lid. There is a plastic tab that pushes down onto a switch.
When you hear the click it means the lid switch is activated.
If it does not click that means it has to be replaced.

But on SOME MODELS the washer will still fill and drain even if the lid switch isn't working. It wont wash or spin though.

But on the whirlpool if the lid switch is a problem it will not wash, spin or drain.
Once the washer fills it will stop all together.
Just like if you have the lid open...

The lid switch is different on all models but very common to change if the lid is dropped instead of being let down gently which is what you should do.

If the lid switch is working properly. There can be a broken coupling.
Only the Whirlpool washers have these couplings.

In the US they have been selling this washer for 20-25 years and in canada for 10-15 years.

They call this washer the Direct Drive washer.
It was a plastic coupling that links the motor to the transmission.
It is another part that takes me about 15 minutes to change and is probably the most common part for these models of washers.

The reason they brake often is because most people will overload their washers without knowing it.
Because the old washers could take a lot of weight.

The new washers are advertised to be heavy duty commercial quality. But no domestic washer is of Commercial Quality. Actually... Commercial Washers are built exactly like the domestic ones are built. Except they have the coin box and slide.
Otherwise all the parts are the same.

Maybe they say commercial quality because they are all built the same so technicaly it is the same quality as a commercial washer but really when they say that it's more of a selling feature than an actual feature..


If you hear a loud noise coming out of your whirlpool, inglis, admiral, kitchenaid, and kenmore by whirlpool washers then the motor coupling could be your problem.

The easiest way to know is to pull the washer out and tip it back so you can see under it.

Then look at this part and see if the black rubber part is worn out. Or if the plastic piece is broken.
If it is then thats the whole problem and the part only cost $14.95.

http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages...0/00326240.jpg

I will make a post later on how the washer comes apart step by step but I just need a few more pictures to help describe it better.

Now when it comes to the washer leaking just a little puddle in front middle of the washer then that can mean the pump is leaking. Which is the most common part to leak..

Here is what the pump looks like.

http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages...5/00071147.jpg

Another thing that can happen is if the UNDERWIRE from BRA comes off it can make it's way into the pump and either make a very loud noise and slow the pump down or stop it. Or it might just stop the pump all together with no noise. But if this happens you will still hear the washer want to start but it wont go.
The UNDERWIRE is the most common thing for me to find in pumps. Usually makes for a couple of laughs depending on how embarassed the customers are.
But I have found all kinds of things in the pump. Also baby socks are common because they are small. But the only way for them to go over is if you have too much clothes in the washer and they get pushed too high and get between this drain board and the rub.

This picture shows the drain board. You can see it if you lift the lid and move the tub ahead or push it back..
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...g?t=1231813955

Ok now I will mention a few things about the washer overfilling.
If the washer happens to fill over the top. This might mean the water level control is defective.
Or it might mean the hose that goes from the tub to the switch has come off. Here is a picture of that hose. I will explain more when I go into the repair post but for now I don't have enough pictures.
But NOTE that this part does not fail often. Most of the time if the washer goes off balance it can sometimes pull the hose off and that will cause it to keep filling and not stop.
SO DO NOT LEAVE THE HOUSE WHEN THE WASHER IS WORKING. DOING SO CAN CAUSE MAJOR PROBLEMS IF THERE IS A LEAK BECAUSE IT WONT STOP FILLING UNTIL YOU GET BACK HOME!!!

Here is a picture of that hose and the water lever switch.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...g?t=1231813988

I will leave this post like this for now.
I have to get some more pictures to make a full post on how to repair it. But I think this is enough info to know what the common parts are and why they fail.
Thanks for reading!

NOTE
If you Can think about something I missed.
Please PM me and let me know.
I will add anything that you might want to know about.
But Please if you have a question that can help others.
Start a new thread with the question as a title!
Thanks