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Be a sport BPG and if they are both real good the rest of the holidays put a little something under the tree for her.........
http://www.homepetitehome.co.uk/USER...%20BLUE(2).JPG
that oughtta take care of your New Years celebrations at the same time !!
I am suprise that those inches-water switches work for so long without many problems. Depending on model and where switch is located it is probably not more than ~ 20" WC. When I have to purchase an explosion proof 10"WC compound switch it is around 500 USD and the diaphragm is the size of a 55 gals drum. Maybe I should buy a washer instead!!!!
OK.. guess I have to be the one to ask...LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Pollypurabred
What is a ~20" WC or an explosion proof 10"WC??
Inquiring minds just have to know..lol
hey big pine guy way to go a little advice next time if you have a shop vac it can go wet or dry for wet pull the filter then reverse the hose and stick it on the hose it should blow it out and or reverse the hose on vacuum and try to suck it out thats the #1 service mans call and he always says its the timer not its always due to clogging been there done it lol but happy to hear you were able to do it without the vacuum!!! Kudos have a Merry Christmas to all !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thetecbrat
Interesting concept,,. How do u reduce the Vacuum cleaner hose down to 1/8" and make it air/water tight?
Going back to my choice of employment, sorry!
Level switches and level transmitters are actually measuring the height of the liquid which is referred to as inches of water column (WC). So a washing machines low level may be set at 20 inches WC, medium level at 30" and high at 40". These are relative cheap switches as generally when changing level settings you have to "RESET" the switch.
In the industrial side the sensing element may be 3" or larger in diameter so the are relatively sensitive and in no need or a reset.
As far as explosion proof device, it is an electrical classification in that should an explosion occur within the switch, the explosive vapors are vented through the enclosures "CAP" (can be screwed or machined-faced) which will allow the vapors to cool below the ignition point (may be an explosive mixture outside the switch also). The idea is to keep the hazardous condition maintained to inside its enclosure.
Interesting concept: It does not matter how large the diameter of the vessel is, only the height of the vessel measured is of concern.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonomus
Okay.....the concept of "blowing" in the hose works, but however, I have to do it each time the washer fills up or it will over fill and flood all over the floor....could it be the load size switch , or the sensor ? Don't want to have to stay with the washer each time we want to do a load of clothes ..
BPG~
I would just order the parts and replace the level switch and tubing for it first.
switch is bad... Replace it with a switch from any washer that has the same diameter hose attached.... if u don't tell the switch is it not off of a GE.. It will never know..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigpineguy
even one off of a scrapped washer would work..most are held on with one or two screws through the front panel...If the replacement switch is a little different..
Use one screw to hold it in place ...;)
Sorry for not updating this thread, I did a ton of reading on what makes that sensor work, and "blowing" into the tube worked, for each fill, but water wasn't going back into the tube which is what's needed for the pressure to build in the tube , I let the water fill up a little while, turned off the washer, siphoned water up to the tube, and quickly reconnected it, started the washer back up , and it switched from fill to wash on it's own , and been working good ever since .....Thanks for all the tips and advice ...
BPG~
Happy to hear you fixed it. just fixed mine the other day to.