As a power supply for the receiver? If it's rated for +12 volts DC and at least 3 amps or more it should work, I can tell much from the photo you posted, eyes are too bad.
Printable View
As a power supply for the receiver? If it's rated for +12 volts DC and at least 3 amps or more it should work, I can tell much from the photo you posted, eyes are too bad.
You want one in this stile like this one:hxxps://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Adapter-Supply-12V-800mA-0-8A-DC-50-60Hz-100-240V-AC-5-5-2-5mm-Brand-New/272405344641?hash=item3f6c9fb181:g:V0UAAOSwPJVdY5U BQuote:
Originally Posted by john4848
But that one is only rated at 800 mA, it may be too small DC current wise to run the receiver.
Check the user's manual for the amount of DC current needed to run the receiver, if under 800 mA then that one would work.
You can always use a power supply with greater then needed DC current as the receiver will only use what it needs, the key is the DC voltage, 12 volts minimum, 13.8 volts maximum, at what ever the receiver needs for DC current.(or more)
I'm using a 65 watt (5.1 amp) laptop power supply
Terryl I was referring to the Style not the specs, the Built-in ones with only the one wire Seem to
work Better than the Block style ones with 2-or more wire connections coming off them.
Least that is what I have found between the two styles
I found an old laptop adapter that fits and powers up my T5 but am not sure if it will fry my box.
Will a 16V - 4.5A output cause damage over time. I leave my box powered on 24/7.
I've attached a picture for reference.
Attachment 27863
Don't even try it.T5 rquires 12 volt inputQuote:
Originally Posted by countysat
I agree with The Noof 12 volt is all you need for the DL T5. Go back to the beginning of this thread, and look at the post is what you need exactly. I have the issue the same with my DL T1 it has the same power supply as the T5 except I may have to replace that one too. The DL T5 has not had an issue since replacing it with same power supply stated on earlier post right here.
So the 20th of December I noticed that on one sat the H transponders where not coming in . (bad or No signal) is what showed up ,but just the one out of 3 lnbs . So i thought bad connection ,so up on the roof like Santa I checked ,and all good up there.Back down now checking out dreamlink ,now the other two sat are showing no H transponders. So multi meter out and I check the power supply getting 12v and 1.6amps ..So like the old guy I am I unplug it and smack it on the table a couple of times. Checked again now I get 12v and 0 amps ...Now the box wont even power up lol.Off to the city to the Source in Canada or Radioshack in the USA and got a Universal Ac to Dc power adapter. Model 800-0630 it does 12v and up to 2.5 amps picked the correct end plugged it in now The box is great.Just though i pass this along. Have a great Christmas
That power adapter that came with the T5 was a piece of garbage it cost me like 100.00 before i knew it was the adapter , i went to the Source and bought a universal adapter 2 years ago and its been working great with a 4 inch computer fan over it keeping it cool .
h//ps://www.amazon.ca/12V3A-Supply-Adapter-Cameras-Listed/dp/B013OVYRZU/ref=sr_1_6?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9M3lh_3K5gIVQ_7jBx0uD QNdEAAYASAAEgK1PPD_BwE&hvadid=229978694862&hvdev=c &hvlocphy=9000862&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvran d=6339967961715060320&hvtargid=kwd-298548523158&hydadcr=1506_10289904&keywords=power+ supply+12v+3a&qid=1577076848&sr=8-6
Read all messages, so this would work as mine seems also to be on its way out..
Thank you!
Yes its possible however its the plug into the unit that might be wrong size. The one from The Source comes with seven ends and I used the forth one. It is the small inside positive one I used. RCA Universal AC to DC 2500mA Power Adapter.There is a stamp on the adapter that says TIP and you match with the positive + on the plug and your good to go.If the one you posted is the wrong size then you will have to cut your plug off a solder it on new adapter.But it should work .I wouldn't go higher then 3 amps but it calls for 12v 2.5 amps or 2500mA.
The circuit topology of the stb determines the current consumed.It is not determined by the power supply.You could use a 10 amp supply if you wanted.Quote:
Originally Posted by dsd
Your absolutely correct Noof.....As long as the power supply used can supply the correct DC voltage and at least the minimum DC current the receiver needs it should work, but I would get one that can supply at least 30% more DC current then needed, this will keep it from overheating.
E=IxR sir...lol.
Only hole in that is if something DOES go amiss on the motherboard, a 10 amperes of current will do a lot more damage that 2.5 will.lol
Thats what fuses are for...........LOL
My main DC supply I use for almost everything around here is 12 VDC (13.8+ when charging) at around 1000 amps, (lots of battery's) this goes to a distribution fuse block that has about 12 outlets, you can select what you want fuse wise for anything connected in.
This is what I use for this.
Very nice DC stuff.Code:https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-rigrunner-4012
No shorts-to-ground please.lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Terryl
HI I posted this in Up down thread and am reposting here.
"HI. Since a couple of days ago I have been getting a Bad or NO Signal error on most channels. A few are up in 200 's but most give the error. When I check the dish setting it confirms I have 87 to 95 % signal strength on both birds. Has anyone else had this problem?"
OK. This isnt the first time I have had the Bad or NO Signal issue. It started in the summer and I checked this post. I bought a new power supply that didnt solve the problem. I assumed it was the box as its a few years old so I bought a new box. Same problem. I managed to work around it and could get 91 but not 82. A month or so ago all cleared up. But 82 comes and goes. I tried 2 diseq 1.0 switches and recently went to a legacy switch. All was good till 2 night ago which is why I posted the post above.
Any suggestions??
Thanks
Are the signal bars in blue or red?What lnb setup do you have?It sounds characteristic of a power supply issue,but can also be switching,cabling, or dl200 module.The service you're using is rock solid, so you can eliminate that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2300tri
Bars are blue when I look at dish settings and on working channels. They are red on the ones that don't work. LNB's are older, single type set on 11.250 frequency. I checked dish alingnment and fine tuned. Changed switches as I mentioned. Up to a month ago when I tuned to a channel on 92 that would not work bar was red. I would go to dish settings and wait a minute and the bars would turn blue. Id go back to channel and signal bar would be blue and channel would work. I did switch over to the new box and with that 82 woudl come in but not regular.
I don t know what to try ext. Id buy another box if I knew it would fix the issue.
What type switch are you using now and what are your switch settings? Other issues I have seen causing issues like yours are cable wire too old or corrosion in your connections.. Lots of things to check
Red bar means no go sir.I would say either the 8psk module (dl200) or the power supply is in question.Ifit misbehaves on both sd & hd channels, I would take out the dl200 hd module &test it again on sd channels only.Easy to do & confirms/eliminates it as the issue.
Switch I am using is a newly purchased legacy switch that says something about dish. When tuning dishes I removed switch and hooked cable direct to receiver from each dish individually. I m prthem again. I am petty sure cables are ok but they are 15 yrs old. I will check anyway. I was just looking at the posts about disconnecting dl200 module. I will try that next.
Thanks for your input. I appreciate it as I was out of ideas. It will take me a day or so to recheck connections for corrosion and remove module and test. I will report back when done.
Thanks Again
Are the LNB'S that your using Legacy or DP, they maybe Failing or causing issues ?
Update. I removed module from new unit and old unit. Connected and signal strength dropped from 95% on 91 to 60%. No channels available on 82. I found the old unit would receive a couple of the 91 channels the new unit would not but 91 showed red bars and would not lock on. Some channels were coming in regardless.
I installed the module from old unit (Blue) into the new receiver. Put the new module (green) into the old receiver. New receiver
with Blue module could now get some of the channels on 82 that were not coming in when the new unit with new module was connected. Old unit with green module could not get anything on 82 as was problem before disconnecting module from new unit.
Conclusion. Green module has a problem.
I rescaned 91. Found that the channels that would not come in before rescan were not picked up with new scan and did not register in the guide. I rescaned 82 and noted difference in signal strength varied with transponder. Some channels with less than 75% signal would come in but would drop off due to signal strength varying up and down. Channels with signal strength over 80% were no problem.
Looks like cabling needs to be looked at.
I will check and redo connections tomorrow to see if signal strength increases / becomes more stable. If not resolved will look at getting newer LNB's.
If anyone sees anything Im missing in what Ive done and concluded so far I would appreciate your comments. If anyone has any other suggestions to check it would be appreciated.
Thanks
When you are checking cables/connections, also have a good look at LNB'S (are they Legacy ?) signs of cracks etc.
Was the Bad/No Signal issue error showing up AGAIN while doing this testing changing things, You mentioned that you
bought a new power adapter, to use, what are the specs on the new one being used. It may not have enough amp/voltage or
Faulty ?
HI. I am back and think I have resolved the problem. I connected dishes direct to receiver and saw a significant increase in signal strength and when i rescaned I picked up a number of channels I have not been able to get for a while. When I reconnected to the switch and existing cables, the signal strength dropped and many of the channels that I could get when connected direct would not come up.
I cut out and changed every connector between the dishes and receiver. I still had low signal. I decided to check the in wall cable from the switch to the wall plug and I saw that the gauge of main wire in the coax cable the installer used when I renovated was a lot smaller than the other cable I had. I had never seen such a thin gauge of wire in a coax cable. I decided to pull out and replace the in wall cable as I had checked or replaced everything else. 4 hours later the cable is installed and I have a couple of wall repairs to patch up the holes I needed to cut to fish the new cable through.
I connected the receiver and bingo!!! I had full signal on both birds.
I guess the moral of the experience is make sure you use good quality coax cable. The new cable was install 2 1/2 years ago and I noticed things started to degrade about a year ago and steadily got worse. So spend the money and get the good stuff. Leave the bargain basement cable on the shelf. If your hiring someone to install cable specify and make sure your getting a good quality cable.
Next step is to get new LNB's. Mine are legacies and i think they are about 20 years old. There are cracks etc so I guess its time.
Thanks to all for your input.
Glad you Figured it out, and yes GOOD coax is a must, as well as the rest of the equipment your using
Glad you resolved it...kudos for thinking it through.