I did chevy motor to ford rear end
turned out perfect having a 9" posi rear end
bullet proof :thumbsup:
handled 425 hp no problem
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I did chevy motor to ford rear end
turned out perfect having a 9" posi rear end
bullet proof :thumbsup:
handled 425 hp no problem
Lookin' good Terry.Continue paying close attention to your drive line angles.You will be glad you did.Driveline vibrations are REAL tough on the diff and tranny.Curious why you chose the LS over old-school SB or even BB.
I got a good price on the LS, a local had his truck "T" boned a few years back, saw it posted one day on a local market place, got it and the tranny for 200 smackers. It had been sitting in his back yard for a bit, but I have pulled the oil pan, exhaust and intake manafolds, used a bore scope on the cylinders and everything looks great.
OK, the engine and tranny are situated, now for the really big job.
Anyone have experience with changing out the front end (1939 end) to a Mustang II IFS, watched some videos, but have lots of questions as to what one to get, have seen the comparison videos between the cheap universal ones, (Chinese) others on Ebay to the really expensive ones. (Heidts)
I can get one that will bolt in to my frame, but its almost 800 bucks more then the weld in ones, I do have a local welder that is certified, but again it's more cost to pay him.
Any ideas out there???
I personally wouldn't trust a bolt in unless you add some weld tacks. If you do a bolt on I would recommend the Chassis Engineering one but it's priced at $1,000.00. Speedway Motors has a weld in one for $360.00
Well one thing with a weld one, that chassis is not that thick of metal, it's a box type, not the "C" channel type you get now days, it's one piece that is stamped out with the bottom piece spot welded on,(you can see it in my post #32) it was good enough for the old 216 CI 85 horse power engine but I'm wondering what may go on with the small block LS and with the front end replaced.
Being out there in the boonies I don't have someone local that has done this before that I can run things by, if I lived back in the big city I might have a local club or two to talk things over with, this is one reason for this thread.
Most frames back in the day were c channeled. Boxed is the best way to go for a chassis. I would add more weld to the chassis where it's just spot welded. I personally would make sure most of the frame is properly boxed and welded.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terryl
Ok, new front end is on it's way, now for something different, anyone have a good idea on how to clean up an aluminum transmission case, the one I have is very dingy, and with the car going to all new paint and the chassis all freshly undercoated the tranny will look terrible.
I see products online but most are for outdoor patio stuff and mag wheels, I want some good spray on stuff that I don't have to wire brush or scrub very hard.
Depending on how dirty it is I would first try cleaning with a high psi power washer (car wash). If that doesn't clean it I would suggest having it soda blasted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terryl
I have a gas powered pressure washer and a sand blaster, but I don't want to use the sand blaster on it as the stuff may get inside somehow.(super fine ground up coal clinkers)
It's not that dirty, just grungy....As in the photo if you can tell.
Attachment 30379
pressure washer should clean that oxidation off
Agreed!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by dishuser
will the tranny fit? :innocent:
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...vw&oe=67D56F7B
Mmmmmm the dishwasher would have to be a bit taller for to fit, but the engine and tranny have been fitted in the chassis, just waiting on the new torque converter and to install the new Mustang II IFS front end, then the whole assembly is going back in.
Blast with dry ice rather than sand.Plug the cooler line fittings as well as the vent,output shaft, and input shaft if you do it with the converter removed.
I don't use sand, I use crushed coal slag from Tractor Supply,(cheap) the fine stuff did wonders on the chassis and car body, only took 300 pounds.(6 bags of this stuff, tractors item # 390779899 if you want to look)
And I don't know how to use dry ice in my blaster, besides the nearest place to get dry ice in my area is about 60 miles away.