I use 12156v 3978 for ku aiming,like you say the rest are wildfeeds.
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I use 12156v 3978 for ku aiming,like you say the rest are wildfeeds.
can't get anything on 101w
The position of the scaler and LNB skew are very important but I find little effect of how close or far in-an-out the LNB is on C band. Try the scaler as far out on the front edge of the LNB as you can get it--just shy of not being able to tighten the screws to hold it on. It would not surprise me if the dish did not do well if you are in NE. I get Lesea on 99 degree very easily, but haven't even tried many other satellites--101,103, 107, 95 degrees at times have given me OK TP (I'm sort of in the middle of US), but as I said earlier, very hit and miss as to what I can get.
years ago I was able to hit a c band channel on 123w with this dish/lnb just jury rigging a mount over the old ku holder.
I don't even think that tp is there anymore.
That was with a regular scalar.
The dish elevation was off by 4 degrees vs ku.I think I had to go 4 degrees higher.
lyngsat eirp is like 46 for 123w for my neck of the woods.
Very interesting read. Would love to put that old prime star dish to work. Any pics of your prime star dishes be awesome to see
I think I have too many bushes in the way,no leaves but lots of branches that may not effect ku but C.
It was another day of finding nothing.
That is too bad! Leaves and branches are why I can't really go outside the range of satellites I posted I've tried. Even thought of selling where I live to re-locate to someplace more open (can you say obsessive?). My initial tries were pretty poor too. The beamwidth on the dish is so broad that you get something through a wide swing of the dish AZ or El if you get the LNB positioned half-way right. Really helps to see the signal on a spectrum analyser display to really let you know that there is something there even if receiver has trouble getting it.
even if it worked I would be limited to dvb-s tp's anyway.
Someday I may try a big homemade oddball dish like a fresnel.
They do sell microwave reflective paint,so theoretically somebody can make a fresnel with some rigid material that passes microwaves without any cutting.Just a good paint job of the rings.
You don't need any special paint, just use some aluminum colored Rust-Oleum professional paint, get the flat stuff, then paint over it with some flat white or flat gray paint.(do not use semigloss or gloss)
There is enough aluminum in the first one to reflect any microwave signal, the flat white or gray will keep the dish from frying the LNB when the Sun gets directly in front of the dish. (this happens twice a year)
I have refinished reflective coated fiberglass dishes this way, they work just like new.
I found an old win95 program for figuring out your own parabola.
That should be interesting.
That 4 foot by 8 foot reflector I built was designed to fit on the front of 1 meter dish. I built an H shaped support with a bar running down the center of the H cross bar and that fit over the top of the dish and had a little dowel to fit in the lowest LNB support. The sides of the H had little bars to help keep the thing from moving side to side as well. All this out of 1 by 2 inch lumber. The up and down parts of the H had 15 degree angled wood supports (angle = atn(y / (2 * f))) That varied in height according to the basic parabolic eq x = y*y / (4 * f). 15 degrees was picked because it was something that I could do with a miter saw I have. One of my design errors was a too small focal length--I used 4 foot when I should have used something up above 5 foot. That would have moved the 15 degree supports out to closer to the end of the .25 by 1.25 inch 8 foot long wooden reflector surfaces that were flexed to shape by the supports at center and those 15 degree blocks and then by string at the end. Cost was only around $20 US for all the parts. Painting the wood took a while. Attaching the window screening to the wood took a while too.
Sort of worked, but I would think just using a jig saw and plywood to form the parabolic curved ribs would be easier. Easier than cutting out a Fresnel lens too.
I was thinking of the 1/2 inch plastic pipe that is easily bendable, to make a big spherical dish.
Still trying to figure out an approach with that.I think the only fittings available are t's and elbows.
PVC pipe can be steamed to make it bend just about any way you might need. Once did an extended cave trip with backpacks made of big PVC tube flattened to an oval shape to fit through the narrow parts. Many plastics can be bent/shaped/cut by heat applied right. Most plastics become brittle with time and cold temps.
I've thought that very thin sheets of something like plywood or wood paneling might be an interesting place to start with DIY dish. I even like the idea of using cardboard--I've seen burning man "tents" made from cardboard and they have built canoes out of cardboard w/ protective "paint". Not saying that you could leave it out in tropical rainfall, but in some climates it could be left out for most of the year. I also like the idea of modular dishes--say three modules that have octagonal or 12 sided that attach to each other to make up a dish. There are big telescopes that use a similar idea as well as large solar furnaces with hundreds of modules--usually they use hexagons with spherical reflective surface and then either flex the module to a parabolic shape or just position it to reflect to a single point as if it were an element of a parabolic surface. I took the idea of sub-dividing a geometric shape like a square or triangle and mapping (on PC) the new points to a sphere and then tried mapping to a parabolic surface--cool looking images--it is likely "tessellation" to the math guys.
I'm not sure that spherical dish is any easier to build than a true parabolic dish. I know you can move LNB around in front of it rather than try to move whole dish, but you can make a very light weight dish and might even be able to mount it on one of the bigger provider dish mounts (think of the newer DTV oval ones).
I was thinking 1/2 inch plastic pipe which is floppy,the "fittings" I could make out of blocks of wood drilled out.
The 8 ball spherical dish of the 1980's was a 30 foot radius,so you use a 30 foot wire or chain with a pen at the end to get the curve on a piece of 2x12 or 2x14 to get the curve you need.
Still thinking about the umbrella dish in my other thread.
I found 1/2 inch plastic fittings from an old screen house,it had a 4way piece I might be able to use.