Winter Project

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Took on a new project to keep me busy this winter. (or longer, more then likely longer)

It's a 1939 Chevy Business coupe. (has no back seat)

I have no problems finding parts and body panels (removing fenders for work on them) but I want to change out the old 216 cubic inch engine to a 235, the old engine has a cracked block in the water jacket.(so I got a great deal on it)

But I'm having problems finding a 235 engine in rebuildable shape, looking for one close by to the Modesto CA area, but if in good shape will go further then 150 miles.

Anyone spot one give me a PM.

Are you restoring or street rodding it?

I'm 50/50 on that, I would like to restore it but finding OEM parts hard to find.

One major thing was the foot boards, the ones on the car were rusted out, (holes I could put my fist through) I have looked for OEM replacements but having a hard time doing so.

The street rod replacements (some came with the car) are 5/8 of an inch too thin, the OEM boards have water grooves stamped in them for drainage, and have special bolt attachments to mount to the supports, so they are thicker then the street rod replacements, the street rod type are just flat steel and don't quite fit up to the front fender bolts, also they don't have a way to attach to the OEM supports, I would have to do some engineering to make them work.

But I have time to figure this stuff out. (I hope)

I have found some refurbished OEM boards and rubber mats, but the shipping from Ohio to here is almost double what the guy wants for the boards.

One other problem is that they (back in 1939) used square nuts on all the bolts, it's very hard to remove a square nut that has been in place for 85 years,(without the proper tools) and trying to find a supplier for 4 point socket sets has been frustrating.

One more thing is that most of the bolts I can get to are just breaking off, even with a good dose of WD 40 and PB blaster, so it looks like I will be using some good bolt extractors to remove these. (any recommendations?)

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Originally Posted by Terryl

One other problem is that they (back in 1939) used square nuts on all the bolts, it's very hard to remove a square nut that has been in place for 85 years,(without the proper tools) and trying to find a supplier for 4 point socket sets has been frustrating.

One more thing is that most of the bolts I can get to are just breaking off, even with a good dose of WD 40 and PB blaster, so it looks like I will be using some good bolt extractors to remove these. (any recommendations?)

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I used to use some heat on them. Most came loose but patience is needed. I used to sell Streetrod parts for a living. Chev parts were always hard to find. Street rod companies had a hard time justifying the cost to manufacture parts for chevys. I would have thought that when Fords were getting scarce then the manufacturers would step up and start punching out Chev stuff. I do suggest Street rodding it. So much stuff out there now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Terryl

Attachment 29671

Took on a new project to keep me busy this winter. (or longer, more then likely longer)

It's a 1939 Chevy Business coupe. (has no back seat)

I have no problems finding parts and body panels (removing fenders for work on them) but I want to change out the old 216 cubic inch engine to a 235, the old engine has a cracked block in the water jacket.(so I got a great deal on it)

But I'm having problems finding a 235 engine in rebuildable shape, looking for one close by to the Modesto CA area, but if in good shape will go further then 150 miles.

Anyone spot one give me a PM.

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what about a reman theres one in sun valley 2400 bucks
i`d offer to paint her for ya but i retired after 48 years
to old.also in stockton theres a old chevy parts seller the name
escapes me maybe mr corvette ill look it up its off farmington rd i believe

I looked at those refurbished ones, if I was going to spend over 1K on an engine I would drop a 283 or 327 in it, (and tranny, rear end) if I was going to do that I would drop a new front end on it and street rod it.

Thinking long time work and spread the budget out as far as possible.

A friend who is a mechanic suggested a 4.2 liter inline 6 that has an aluminum block, but have to get the specs as to is measurements and how it mounts. I don't want to have to extend the front end just to clear the radiator, even if I go with a 235 I might have to go with an electric fan as the belt driven fan may not clear the radiator.

If I do go with a small block V8 I would have to get a new radiator and one setup for an automatic tranny cooler,(if I go with an automatic) also with an electric fan setup.

Things to think about, and work things into a budget that wont break the bank.

And thanks on the offer to paint it, I have a guy here local that's going to help with the body work, as the whole rear end by the bottom of the trunk need replacing, it has what is called a "Tool Tray" that part is totally rusted out, and the back end body panel looks to have been crudely repaired.

Fun stuff ahead, all comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated as I haven done this type of work since the "70's".

Later guys

Walker Radiator is the one I would recommend. Great quality but a bit pricy and it had the bungs for the trans cooler lines.

OK kids, have run into a problem, I need to do some cutting and grinding on the inside body work, the problem is that the gas tank is located inside under the back where a back seat would be, I have access to the tank and have disconnected the fuel line and tank sensor, I can see where the straps connect through the floor board, I see the "T" bolts that hold one end of the strap but cant find the corresponding nuts to remove them.

Too cold right now to get some photos, will tackle this later.

OK an update, got the tank out,(nuts were hidden under some caked on mud and other junk) and did some work as it has warmed up a bit, took the rear fenders off to look at some rusted through holes....Well it looks like this maybe several winters worth of work, got one big spot that is going to be a tough one to fix, and I don't know where to start, here is a photo.

Attachment 29690

I would shape a piece of sheet metal for whole thing and cut most of that out and coat it
on one of my old pickups the wheel wells had a plastic insert and gas tank had a shield
removed all that and redid wheel wells before coating
dumbest design I've ever seen as it traps salt and water and you have no idea it's rusting away

The funny thing is that the passenger side is perfect, no rust to be seen.

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Originally Posted by Terryl

The funny thing is that the passenger side is perfect, no rust to be seen.

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driver must have been a lot heavier than passenger which kept it higher off the ground...lol

Looks amazing as is Terryl but, I am sure it will be primo when done.

Looks good But...Please put up the America Flag on the right.It will make u more proud on your Project and where u live. Thx