1000.4 Conversion For 110,119,129

Had a 1000.4 given to me without the head. This dish is the latest install being used by DN for sats 61.5, 72, 77. Nice sized dish so I thought I would try and mod it for the 3 bracket holder that comes with a dish 1000 or the bracket that is being sold to allow single lnbs for the dish 1000.2

Pic 1: First you will need to cut a piece of bracket arm off a dish 500, dish 300, direct tv dish just about any of them will work.

Pic 2: Attach the bracket to the cut piece of arm from the other dish.

Pic 3: The 1000.4 has a wider and higher lnb arm opening and will allow the smaller piece of arm to slide right down into the end of the 1000.4 perfectly. Drill a few holes in the dish arm with the added piece to stabilize it and presto you have a dish that will pick up 110,119,129 with ease.

Pic 4: As you can see this is a much bigger dish than the dish 500 or the dish 1000 and works perfectly for those sats. The bracket can be bought off ebay for 10-12 dollars and allows you to use legacy lnbs to get away from the power requirements of those DPP lnbs. Dish focal point is spot on with the 3 lnb bracket and all sats came in at 90% or better. This is in the USA dont know how this will work for our northern neighbors.

This might aught to be a sticky somewhere as a dish mod.

Great job.

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Originally Posted by Bowhunters

This might aught to be a sticky somewhere as a dish mod.

Great job.

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Consider it done! :thumbsup:

Can this mod be done on Dt# at9 ?

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Originally Posted by lme

Can this mod be done on Dt# at9 ?

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I have seen some dish modifications done on the DTV AT9 dish, but I do not remember where I seen that info, and I do not remember seeing it done very much.

The DTV Phase III dish was more of the choice of modifications.

I hate to stear you away from this site to find that info, but I would suggest doing a search for DTV AT9 Modifications on your favorite search engine.....then do the modification and post your results here!!!! :thumbsup:

Looks like a great project to try! Some more precise measurements would be in order for f/d and the like. Have a bunch of *choice 60e's around and could use the arms for this project, as they would match up good for legacys and the like. Now I just have to get some!!!


Happy Testing!!!

Had a 1000.4 given to me without the head. This dish is the latest install being used by DN for sats 61.5, 72, 77.....................first sentence i c/p.......... this is what they put up on my dads house when i was out of town,i had made a thread back last yr but thought it was a 1000.2 but its not its a 1000.4 wow is there anyway to get 110,119 from it?i know when i'm watching the sub i'm watching 110,119 but on the contract says 61.5,72,77????????that s--t is confusing me.the way it sets right now is there anyway to run a coax from it just to one FTA and get 110,119 is what i'm asking,i have no idea

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Originally Posted by badboyz4life

Had a 1000.4 given to me without the head. This dish is the latest install being used by DN for sats 61.5, 72, 77.....................first sentence i c/p.......... this is what they put up on my dads house when i was out of town,i had made a thread back last yr but thought it was a 1000.2 but its not its a 1000.4 wow is there anyway to get 110,119 from it?i know when i'm watching the sub i'm watching 110,119 but on the contract says 61.5,72,77????????that s--t is confusing me.the way it sets right now is there anyway to run a coax from it just to one FTA and get 110,119 is what i'm asking,i have no idea

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Dont think you can use the 1000.4 for 110-119 without doing the mod to it as the lnbs on the standard head are spaced 11 degrees apart from 61.5 to 72.7 and 4 degrees to 77W, 9 degrees apart would be optimum as the W bracket has. Thats just a guess on my part its possible you might be able to use the 61.5 and 72.7 lnbs for 110 and 119 but I have never tested that. I have attached an installation guide for the 1000.4. You can check where it is pointed by looking at the zip code tables in the guide and comparing the skew and elevation readings. My guess is it is pointed at the Eastern Arc. Check the skew and elevation on the dish and if it matches the pointing angles in the chart then it is pointed at 61.5, 72.7 and 77 degrees. These are DPP lnbs with internal diseqc switch so you would need your dish receiver powered on all the time to power the internal switch in it and chances are you will have to repoint the dish to get 110-119 on the lnbs I previously mentioned if possible. Hope that helps.

thats it my friend and its to much for me to try i'll stick with my dish 500 i got hooked up,i'm calling dick to come get there piece of s--t anyway.my dads contract has another yr but seeing he just past away they can stick there contract up there a--

I did this mod exactly as it says here. im getting a lock on 119W where the 129W LNB is supposed to be, which is the far left lnb if you were standing behind the dish, TP 12501 S&Q is 74% and 69%. 110 W is locking on at approx. the same S&Q and on the correct LNB,far right standing behind dish. the middle LNB, which is supposed to be 119W, only seems to lock onto 110W. I have made adjustments in elevation and azumith and cannot get S&Q any stronger and there are no obstuctions or interference. Can this be due to LNB not being grounded?

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Originally Posted by ivanme

I did this mod exactly as it says here. im getting a lock on 119W where the 129W LNB is supposed to be, which is the far left lnb if you were standing behind the dish, TP 12501 S&Q is 74% and 69%. 110 W is locking on at approx. the same S&Q and on the correct LNB,far right standing behind dish. the middle LNB, which is supposed to be 119W, only seems to lock onto 110W. I have made adjustments in elevation and azumith and cannot get S&Q any stronger and there are no obstuctions or interference. Can this be due to LNB not being grounded?

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Standing from behind the dish the 129lnb will be to your far left or westward, middle lnb will be 119 and lnb to the far right or to the east will be your 110 lnb. Your 129 lnb will be skewed higher than the others as it is the lower sat in the arc with 119 being middle and 110 sat highest thus the lowest lnb on the dish because of the crisscross pattern reflected from sat to dish to lnb kinda like a bank shot in pool. Use the middle lnb the 119 lnb to site your dish. Use either the dish 1000 or 1000.2 settings for elevation, azmuith and skew. Set the skew first and do not change that. Use the elevation and azmuith settings to fine tune.

Grounding the dish and coax should be done. You can get a static build up in the coax and blow an lnb or stb. I will upload the 1000.2 dish instructions and pointing angles by zipcode for your azmuith, skew and elevation settings. Same settings as using the triple head lnb off the dish 1000.2 for the 1000.4 those lnbs are marked correctly. Think your problem will be corrected using those settings as you are now probably 9 degrees off. If not check your switch and settings to make sure they physically correspond to your menu settings.

You can kill two birds with one stone by using a ground block right at the dish, attaching the ground block to the dish mounting mast with a good sized sheet metal screw (drill a pilot hole first) with do both, run the ground wire from the screw to an earth ground ( I don't like using the house electrical ground, a metal cold water pipe will work just fine) and your set, it will ground the dish and the coax, the coax will ground the case of the LNB(s). (the plastic 3 way mount for the LNB's isolates them from ground)

Be sure to use some coax seal or liquid tape and dielectric grease on the connectors at the ground block or you may get a water leak

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( I don't like using the house electrical ground, a metal cold water pipe will work just fine

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Local codes vary, but the Code here says that any additional ground rods need to be bonded to the service entrance ground with #6 copper/#4 aluminum. I think that's to avoid a difference in potential in the event of a lightning strike. Since the receiver is grounded through the house electrical system, the dish should be grounded there as well, to form a single point ground system.

Grounding to a cold water faucet is prohibited as well, by DN and Bell installation Quality Standards. If you do plan on grounding to a pipe, it has to be as close to the entrance as possible, and the pipe has to be metal for at least 10' once it's outside.

Different states and even counties have different grounding codes. Even though a proper dish and directv install calls for higher standards you cant always adhere to them for one reason or another however getting it as close to code as possible is in your best interest. Good information from both Terryl and Satchick on grounding. Main thing is regardless of codes grounding should be done on all dishes and coax on any type of install and a common grounding point should be used for all stbs or devices on those coax lines especially when using more than one stb, a direct hit by lightning isnt goind to matter what code you went by anyways but a good grounding job will help if its not a direct hit. The dish installer that did my first dish told me although he was supposed to go six feet down with at least 8 gauge he grounded to my water pipe anyways. Good info satchick and let me mention that a drip loop should be used as close to the grounding point and entrance to the house as possible, In my case it was about 5 ft. from water pipe going into basement but I live on the side of a hill and the water pipe is buried pretty deep by the time it gets to my house. lol

Well, I guess if you had it grounded that close to where the pipe enters, it would have a pretty good connection to the building ground anyways, since metal plumbing is always bonded to the panel...