Does anyone know anything about the Viewsat 9000HD Power supply problems? How to correct the defects.
I have found the voltages in the 50v and 3.3v connections are giving me less voltages.
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Does anyone know anything about the Viewsat 9000HD Power supply problems? How to correct the defects.
I have found the voltages in the 50v and 3.3v connections are giving me less voltages.
I had the same problems with mine, never could get it resolved. Ended up getting a Maxhd on fleabay, thats still running fine. They're alot of smart people here so maybe someone will tell you how to fix it, good luck
Best thing to do is replace it, but since the Viewsat line of receivers is out of production it may be hard to find a new one.
Try this place, they may be able to fix it for you.
Or you can try a cap replacement.Code:http://www.power-supply-repair.com/?gclid=CNXBk67bg7MCFQSCQgodT0MAcA
My 9000HD was getting slow to boot. It should show "booting" in a couple of seconds of main power switch turn on. I would switch rx on and wait for 30 sec for it to indicate booting. This became 60 after another month. I noticed the 2 fans that I wired internally would pulse on then off and this would repeat. When they would finally stay on, then the booting indication would display. Finally one day it wouldn't boot.
This is a switching power supply I'm guessing. Once it died I could hear it make a repeating click sound. I disconnected the wire harness header and powered up to see if the mainboard was loading down the supply but there was now no clicking sound and no dc voltages likely because there is a sensing cct. I plugged the header back in and now it would click and I measured a pulsing dc voltage, just like the fans were pulsing. The dc shouldn't be pulsing but it's switching incorrectly. Then I noticed a swollen cap near the front right side of the ps board and it is labelled EC201. It is a 2200uf 10v electrolytic cap.
I pulled the power cord, pulled the ps board out, replaced that one cap and now I'm back up and running. When I searched the problem with google, lots of people had opinions about boot loop blah blah blah. If your voltages aren't there or they are pulsing, and they're marked on the cct board what they should be, try changing this cap even if it isn't swollen, it could still have failed. Remember to power down before pulling the board, and note the electrolytic caps are marked with a minus on one side and that matches the thick black print on the cct board. If you don't already know this, you might want to get help from a buddy that does. And if you're not sure what you're doing in there, call a buddy that does. Current kills! :stop: Good luck :yes:
Dishfish is right. Those capacitors on the power supply have had a bad rep for years. Replacements are cheap and easy to install. If that's not it you might check the main board. I believe one of the transistors is also likely to cause problems. It should be attached to a heat sink near the front right hand (cable connect side). Can't remember the code off hand but km419 sounds about right.
I have a dead 9000HD because the PSdied. You can't find replacements unless you get another VS 9000 HD lol. And I also have 1 with bad caps. I might fix that one. These are nice receivers
Just wondering if you had to use the same PS from another 9000hd or would a PS from a say 2000 work?
Get the fan working again and the unit will power up and work.
On these units the main board senses if the fan is working or not.
If fan is NOT working ---protection circuit cuts power to main board and the unit appears dead.
I found this thread doing a search, glad i did, it was that there EC201, had it up in about 15 min.
Change all the caps is the first thing. My Max power supply died. I modified one out of a VS Pro and it has been working great ever since.
cap meter are $15 on ebay good to have when fixing PSU.
Hi Dishfish, I just read your post after posting my thread. My VS9000HD did not die but had issues with Signal strength and quality. If it is a capacitor issue I will try to replace it. Is it possible for you to post the picture of that CAP?
If you have a cap problem (tops of the caps are bulged up) and use good quality parts to replace them (same uF rating but one step higher voltage, 10 volts up to 16-25 volts) then they should work as long or longer then the first ones did.
But remember this is a switching power supply, some very high AC voltages are present when the unit is powered up, do not touch any of the heat sinks or other exposed metal parts if the unit is plugged into the wall, also wait a few before trying to remove it from the chassis. Touch the wrong part when powered up and you may wake up against the wall.
Here is the Pro very reasonable and will never blow again
Daniel Zielinski
5468 NW Empress Cir
Port ST Lucie FL 34983
US