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It is difficult for me to locate the c10 capacitor on the board. The power supply has not got anything marked on the board. I am able to guess the relative position of the c24 from google images. From one image the relative position of c10 corresponds to a small 47uf 10v cap. Has anyone experienced with the power supply ?
If there is a bad electrolytic cap on a PCB, it will be domed up, the cap should not be changed if it is not damaged or dried out.
Attachment 28230
They can also darken the pcb at the bottom of the cap when they leak out the legs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terryl
I'm pretty sure I have a good image of the pcb that identifies the caps locations.I will look for it when I get home from work this aft.I also have a reworked power supply if need be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
Should be home soon...I hope.lol
Check your p.m.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
Attachment 28232Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noof
I am showing my power supply layout.
Thanks
That is a switching power supply kid's, be very sure you have disconnected it from the main unit and let it sit for about ten minuets, otherwise you may be in for a nasty shock.
A switching power supply uses a high frequency switching circuit that connects one section of it directly to the AC main, there is no isolation transformer in that section, if you come across one of the components in that section, and it's still charged or plugged in you will have a big surprise, you may wake up in the corner of the room. (hopefully) Be very careful working with a switching power supply,(if you have never done so) we don't want to hear about any accidents.
Also this one as well
Sent......
My Sonicview 8000 was the last batch of receivers being produced at that time. Out of the box, my C10 is a 470uf 10V capacitor and c24 is 1000uf 10v. Almost everyone is replacing c10 by a 1000uf 25/35v capacitor. Should I stay with a 470uf/ higher voltage as replacement to keep original capacitance?
Go by the PDF I posted (TestAndRepairSV8kPowerSupply.pdf) what ever is recommended in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
You can always replace a cap with a higher voltage rating then the original, you can also go above the original caps micro Farad rating,(unless it's in a timing circuit) however the one problem may be the hole size in the PCB for the cap's leads, in some cases the higher voltage/rating cap's leads may be a bit bigger in diameter then the old one, and you can't/shouldn't drill out the hole's as it may be used as a feed through for a circuit trace to go to other parts of the board.
Also these PCB's are cheap, so don't use too hot of a soldering gun as you may lift a trace or damage the board.
So you could use a 470 uF-25 volt cap if it fits the holes, these are just power supply filter caps.
You must keep the same capacitance value, but you can up the working voltage.I use 50v when I can get them.There is room on the board for the larger cans.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
Sorry Noof, but you can always go higher with the cap's uF value in a power supply filter circuit if it fits the PCB.
The only reason the original PCB didn't have a higher voltage higher rating cap in it was for cost, a 470 uF 10 volt cap is cheaper then a 470 uF (or higher) 25 volt cap when used in a 3 to 5 volt power supply circuit.
With regards to power supply "smoothing", that is true.As long as he's ONLY changing those caps, he can up the value.No real reason,because the power supply in the sv was clean enough...just not strong enough.I keep the values the same, but up the working voltage.Matter of choice.
I got a 470uf 35v (c10) and 3 1000uf 35v (c24) Secor capacitors from Acces Electronique in DDO and had the tedious task to remove the original small c10 and c24 capacitors using solder wick. Also used solder paste to solder the replacements. Installed the power supply and the receiver went into booting and power on modes. The repair was a resounding success. I might optionally replace the 2 other capacitors as suggested.
I prefer a solder sucker over the wick
Some solder pastes will eat away the traces on the board.
Congrats bro...you've just completed some hands-on old time testing !Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
I used the Proskit solder paste. The package states that the mix is non corrosive. I also cleaned the traces with alcohol on the board afterwards. You have any recommendations regarding flux ?
I've always used either aerosol automotive brake cleaner or contact cleaner.It's fine for sealed smd components,but keep it away from relays & other unsealed components.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftafixsat
Enjoyed reading this thread guys!!
Reminds me of years gone by with the stand alone bins.
The testing, the modding of boxes and dishes fascinated me. I never really understood it though lol
I remember whodat, the master of the old pansat, the incredible 0T with the viewsat modifications. He tried
to make me understand but....
Not totally about the TV watching, it was about..can I make this work, will it work, what about if I make these
cuts to the dish, can I strap a motor on that. I was always in awe!!