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My Mother in laws GE washer gave my wife problems the other day, and wouldn't fill up at all, I turned the load size to reset and now it will fill up, but doesn't stop, and I had a ton of water on my basement floor.... No matter what I do, all it will do is fill up, and it will let me drain/spin the washer, but doesn't seem to want to stop filling on it's own and switch to wash mode or something, any suggestions...lol....
BPG~
The switch should have a 1/4 hose going to it from the tub . Make sure that the hose is not clogged or cracked . The switch itself should have an adjustemnt screw ( I wouldn't play with it) - as you turn the water level knob you should be able to hear the switch engage/disengage .
i had that same thing happen one time and my sisters father in law fixed it. it had swallowed a sock and he found it in the drain. hope its that simple pine.
Thanks Stan, I checked and the hose is clean and fine, wires all look fine, but same on any cycle ..hot or cold....Just fills until it floods over the sides....So glad the basement is a concrete floor...
BPG~
if it "swallowed" one of our socks, that would be in the drain line, and that would make it continue to fill up like this ?Quote:
Originally Posted by justeric1agn
Thanks for any advice gang....I don't want to have to call a plumber today, and the wife wants to do laundry...lol...
BPG~
My other thought would be the fact that it will let me drain the washer by putting it on spin, and it will drain all the water , so , I can't see it as clogged... :(
BPG~
I found this for ya BPG.
The next time it overfills......Pull the plug out of the wall.
If it keeps filling, even with the machine unplugged, The fill valve is stuck and needs replacement. If the water stops filling with the machine unplugged, Suspect water level/ pressure sensor, Or a damaged hose between the "Air Bell" and Pressure transducer.The damaged hose becomes more likely if the machine has been recently "Dissasembled " or serviced.
Just a thought as I had it happen to me..
My solution may work for you also..:)
Pull the little line off of the fill valve on the back top panel and blow the water out of the line with your mouth.
It is air pressure that closes the fill valve and with water in the line the pressure cannot get to the valve..;)
Umm how about buying the mother in law a new fangled front load washer.. That should get you in her good book..ROFLMAO
Sounds like the level sensor is on the fritz.. :thumbsup:
I had it filling up and unplugged it, and it stops filling....so, whatever that means... I blew through the hose , and it seems clear..
My wife said that she had gone downstairs and noticed that the washer was flooding all over the floor, she shut it off , drained some of the water out by turning it to spin....then when she turned it back on, it just made a loud "Errrrrr" noise but wouldn't do anything, turned the wash size load switch to "reset" and it made a "Click" noise, turned the washer back on and it started filling again, but doesn't stop filling....tried doing the "reset" again, but it doesn't make any noises at all for me now... A Plumber really isn't the budget right now....so I would like to try and fix this myself and soon....laundry is piling up...lol
BPG~
If there was water in the washer and u blew through the tube and u did "not" hear bubbles inside of the washer..
The tube is broken somewhere between the pressure switch and the tub..
Straw in a glass of water.. Blow into the top.. Bubbles come out the bottom..
Same principle.. bigger straw..lol
I wish that I could hit that "Thanks" button more than once bro!!! I put some water in the washer, took off that tube and blew as hard as I could, it made a "whistle" type of noise, and then I heard the bubbling noise of the water, and it is WORKING!!!! Thank you so much for any and all suggestions .... My wife will be So happy to hear that it's working again.....Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonomus
BPG~
Hey way to go.
I always said.. MaMa is happy ..Everyone is happy..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bigpineguy
Glad we were of some help my friend..
Enjoy..:) :)
Happy wife= happy life.....lol....Thanks again bud!
BPG~
Be a sport BPG and if they are both real good the rest of the holidays put a little something under the tree for her.........
http://www.homepetitehome.co.uk/USER...%20BLUE(2).JPG
that oughtta take care of your New Years celebrations at the same time !!
I am suprise that those inches-water switches work for so long without many problems. Depending on model and where switch is located it is probably not more than ~ 20" WC. When I have to purchase an explosion proof 10"WC compound switch it is around 500 USD and the diaphragm is the size of a 55 gals drum. Maybe I should buy a washer instead!!!!
OK.. guess I have to be the one to ask...LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Pollypurabred
What is a ~20" WC or an explosion proof 10"WC??
Inquiring minds just have to know..lol
hey big pine guy way to go a little advice next time if you have a shop vac it can go wet or dry for wet pull the filter then reverse the hose and stick it on the hose it should blow it out and or reverse the hose on vacuum and try to suck it out thats the #1 service mans call and he always says its the timer not its always due to clogging been there done it lol but happy to hear you were able to do it without the vacuum!!! Kudos have a Merry Christmas to all !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by thetecbrat
Interesting concept,,. How do u reduce the Vacuum cleaner hose down to 1/8" and make it air/water tight?
Going back to my choice of employment, sorry!
Level switches and level transmitters are actually measuring the height of the liquid which is referred to as inches of water column (WC). So a washing machines low level may be set at 20 inches WC, medium level at 30" and high at 40". These are relative cheap switches as generally when changing level settings you have to "RESET" the switch.
In the industrial side the sensing element may be 3" or larger in diameter so the are relatively sensitive and in no need or a reset.
As far as explosion proof device, it is an electrical classification in that should an explosion occur within the switch, the explosive vapors are vented through the enclosures "CAP" (can be screwed or machined-faced) which will allow the vapors to cool below the ignition point (may be an explosive mixture outside the switch also). The idea is to keep the hazardous condition maintained to inside its enclosure.
Interesting concept: It does not matter how large the diameter of the vessel is, only the height of the vessel measured is of concern.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonomus
Okay.....the concept of "blowing" in the hose works, but however, I have to do it each time the washer fills up or it will over fill and flood all over the floor....could it be the load size switch , or the sensor ? Don't want to have to stay with the washer each time we want to do a load of clothes ..
BPG~
I would just order the parts and replace the level switch and tubing for it first.
switch is bad... Replace it with a switch from any washer that has the same diameter hose attached.... if u don't tell the switch is it not off of a GE.. It will never know..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigpineguy
even one off of a scrapped washer would work..most are held on with one or two screws through the front panel...If the replacement switch is a little different..
Use one screw to hold it in place ...;)
Sorry for not updating this thread, I did a ton of reading on what makes that sensor work, and "blowing" into the tube worked, for each fill, but water wasn't going back into the tube which is what's needed for the pressure to build in the tube , I let the water fill up a little while, turned off the washer, siphoned water up to the tube, and quickly reconnected it, started the washer back up , and it switched from fill to wash on it's own , and been working good ever since .....Thanks for all the tips and advice ...
BPG~
Happy to hear you fixed it. just fixed mine the other day to.