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Thread: JB200 repairs?

  1. #31
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    I did buy the Diodes, de-solder pump, solder, solder pencil. but curious how to remove old in detail, and how to connect new ones. One post mentions putting negative side to the backside of unit. I didn't thing a diode was made up of negative and positive but more direction.

  2. #32
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    What that means is the proper direction, diodes are designed to allow current go one direction not back..............

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    putting negative side to the backside of unit
    That was for the capacitors. Both caps and diodes are marked as for what part is what--I would think a quick search would find you lots on the topic.

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    I just replaced mine. easy to swap it out.

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    Yes, easy to swap out and cheap, but it would be nice to see some actual testing done on some of the boards (and some of these newer boxes). Who know what might be possible if you just figure out things like pin-outs and find data sheets? For instance, you might be able to get the Broadcom chip on the tuner to do directv type signals. You might find out a setting that does not create as much heat.

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  8. #36
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    fightdoc, any chance to provide some detail on how you went about the procedure?

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    I have managed to remove C52 and C55, So how do i know how to solder the new diode on correct?

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    Well, if you are trying to replace two capacitors with a diode, then I would say that there is NO WAY to do it correctly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jvvh5897 View Post
    Well, if you are trying to replace two capacitors with a diode, then I would say that there is NO WAY to do it correctly.
    rotflmao...perhaps they are capacidodes

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    I HAVE 2 module broken
    One module working only in SD signal
    How can i repaire this ?
    thanks

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    Hi have the same problem !!

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    regarding my post #37 I meant to say Capacitors. I bought 22UF 100v, NP, as another forum mentioned with the (NP) non polarized capacitor it doesn't matter which which way they get soldered on. I thought I did a ok job, but no luck. I may try another board.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pisici View Post
    I HAVE 2 module broken
    One module working only in SD signal
    How can i repaire this ?
    thanks
    Old thread I know , but mine just went out today, (end of may 2019) here's some pointers .

    This is common in FTA box tuners and modules with broadcom 8psk turbo chip, oddly it only happens on fta units orig and clone.

    When you get the qpsk (sd) channels with good signal, but a low 20-40 signal on 8psk, only the 8psk part is dead, usually from overheating. I've had it happen a few times on ilink, and jynxbox.

    Occasionally or if you catch it in time, ie seeing weird issues like sudden signal drop or picture issues , turn box off measure with a laser heat sensor , you will find it's way too hot ( broadcom chip ) .

    I put a PC case fan blowing air onto my tuner dropped the heat from 120 C to 30 C (yes there is the silver heatsink) in 2013.

    The smaller clones have a tiny 386 cpu fan preinstalled v22-v30 facing the tuner, which seems to work too and fits easily inside the case .

    I prefer v1-v3 jynx as they have all the orig i/o features, IR extender, too!

    So How did mine blow today? Well my v3 bootlooped a year ago, from trying to load a factory channel list. (Current 2014 list is inaccurate lol)

    I found a V2 orig on CL bought that, put V3 in closet, the V2 seemed to work so well, that I never bothered taking the lid off. Software was already on there V1.239.

    Didn't bother putting in a fan or anything.

    Today Worked for a few minutes, crapped out I went to non 8psk still working, then back to 8psk signal was 40 and only qpsk worked at 85% signal,

    Using another receiver , confirmed signal wireing etc working , then I opened the v2 it was pristine, my old v3 tuner was filthy (see pix, its now in clean machine )as I had fan blowing air on it.

    That got me back up, but now I still have a "crippled" jb200

    I used a multimeter as suggested here to test the caps and the diodes that are beside them. Caps had voltage and did not have continuity, (no beep)

    Depending on which meter some showed caps at 22 or 23 the other meter showed 11

    My next step is to check the esr of the caps.

    I'm not sure why the different results (different digital auto ranging boot meters)

    As to the diodes one in the middle of the 3 is covering it's pad towards the rear of card .

    These are very poorly made.

    I've had original ird with same broadcom chip no issues, I've had genpix with same chip no issues , no fan needed in both cases .

    My friend has also had 3 jb200 go and a ilink go.

    I'll try esr meter when I find it. Maybe the heat caused a drop the electrolytic medium? But as I did one is 23uf.

    If your here it's too late , but don't use your fixed one without a fan, my v3 was a clone , I felt that the v2 with orig tuner would be better, it was , but failed a year later .

    Ps: while both tuners look the same with slight differences they both say v2. You can see the one with writhing above the tuner can, the other one that says 2012 near the caps also say a qpsk v2 above the tuner can it a hard to see.

    Could anyone tell me what thier caps said when in circuit or if they show a short?
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    Last edited by Willucome2014; 05-24-2019 at 06:17 AM.

  17. #44
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    Check out my pics two of my diodes face one way one the other.

  18. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvvh5897 View Post
    Yes, easy to swap out and cheap, but it would be nice to see some actual testing done on some of the boards (and some of these newer boxes). Who know what might be possible if you just figure out things like pin-outs and find data sheets? For instance, you might be able to get the Broadcom chip on the tuner to do directv type signals. You might find out a setting that does not create as much heat.
    I agree would love to participate

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