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Thread: fake motor

  1. #1
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    Question fake motor

    Actually,it would be more like an actuator replacement that is manual twist.
    I am working on getting a 8.5' dish but the actuator is shot.
    I have threaded rod to play with and was wondering if they make a replacement actuator that is jackass powered?
    The original was 24" or 36", a new 36" would be $$

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    Maybe look into using some sort of jack stand?--those things that you raise automobiles with to change tire? They use big ones to temp support house beams during home repair that might be available in shorter versions, but I bet big bucks while a used jack from salvage yard could be pretty cheap.

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    Get one from a large truck, (higher lift) then get a 3/8" socket adapter for a cordless drill, use the correct sized socket to turn the jack with the drill.

    Have someone use the drill and you watch for a signal.
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    the original motor was exposed to the elements at the motor/ sensor end.
    I may be able to get it going again,even if it means I have to do it manually out at the dish.

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    I would think a threaded rod with nuts that you can move around would do the trick too. Two on each end to lock in the adjustment and loosen one to crank it toward that loose nut. I just turn a dish on the post to set AZ on my mini-BUD and then retighten the bolts--I think that is the only manual method in use.

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    The motor still works,but all the gears on the end for the sensor are missing.
    As a test I fed it with 24v to make sure it moves to and fro.
    I will have to move the dish out at the dish when the time comes.
    24" actuator.

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    Time to look for a 3-D printer? Or cannibalize gears out of something like a windshield washer. Or just live with it.

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    how do you measure the actuator length?
    the exposed shaft fully extended is only 18 inches.

  9. #9
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    This is an old thread, but I will give you an answer.

    A 24 inch stroke linear motor would be (depending on the manufacture) 34.6 inches fully closed to 58.6 inches fully extended, 58.6 minus 34.6 equal the 24 inch stroke.

    All this would vary a bit between manufactures, but most are very close to each other.

    If your measuring 18 inches then the motor is not fully extended, are you trying to measure this with the motor still attached to the dish?

    Most satellite "C" band linear motors are usually not fully extended, this is to provide some internal support for the actuating screw.
    ♫♫♫ I’m a lumberjack and I’m OK ♫♫♫ I drink all night and sleep all day. ♫♫♫



    Coming soon to a crop circle near you.....

    There is a 66 and third % chance that I'm on the right planet...

    "I'm happier then a Jackalope in a balloon factory"

    "First rule of testing satellites"
    "If its working fine now, then don't mess with it"

    "Second rule of testing satellites"
    "If you did mess with it, and now it doesn't work, can you blame someone else?"

    "Third rule of testing satellites"
    "If you did mess with it, and it doesn't work now, and you can't blame someone else"
    "Can you HIDE it"?

  10. #10
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    motor is loose,not attached to anything.
    motor fully extended, the entire shaft spins and stops extending.
    "Hole to hole" distance is 28" fully extended and 10" fully retracted.

  11. #11
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    I noticed you really have to read the fine print when buying new.
    This is from an ad from amazon for an 18inch dish actuator.
    This actuator has a "Static Load" rating of 450 lbs. This is the weight that the structure can support. The "Dynamic Load" rating is 225 lbs. This is the weight that the device can push, pull or lift. WARNING: This actuator is designed for pushing and sliding loads only. It will not work to pull a load, except for minimal load applications. If you install this to pull, it will damage the actuator and void the warranty.

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