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Thread: I-link 9600 will not turn on?

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    Default I-link 9600 will not turn on?

    Hi all, I got a I-link 9600 for free that will not turn on and was wondering if there is a "common problem" with a capacitor blowing on it like what often happens with the nfusion hd? I have a bunch of other receivers (Viewsat, CNX, Nfusion) that I don't use anymore, would the power supply off one of them work on the I-link 9600? Any help would be appreciated.....thanks.

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    No lights or nothing on the display when you first turn it on??

    Don't go swapping the power supply from another unit, the output voltages and pin outs could be different, this would turn your receiver into a door stop.

    If you have a volt meter then check the output of the power supply, (if it is a separate board) if you have nothing then it could be what is called a Pico fuse, this would be a small green resistor looking thing that would pop if the AC current was too high.

    Pico fuse.jpg

    This would be soldered into the power supply PCB.

    If the power supply is built into the main board then there could also be a Pico fuse on it, look right at where the AC main lines are plugged into the main board, but be careful as the power supply's in these units are switching power supply's, touching the wrong thing with a finger could get you thrown up against a wall, or waking up on the floor.

    If there are any bulging caps then they need to be replaced, you could if you have the skills remove then same type and rating cap from the old other receivers.
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    Hi Terry, thanks for the reply, yes no lights at all when I turn the receiver on. A blown fuse was the first thing I looked for, I had a look for that Pico fuse and there is none, there is however a round black Thermal Fuse (TMP T2a 250v) that is by the AC main lines that are plugged into the board (see pic, top-left of ac board), it looks fine but I don't know how to tell when those kind of fuses are blown? I also had a look at all the caps but none are bulging or leaking, one of the large caps has some yellow stuff at the bottom (see pic) that's hard as a rock but I think that might be glue they use sometimes on caps? Where do you check the output of the power supply, do you mean checking the voltage of all 10 wires that plug from the power supply board to the main board? Those voltages are all marked beside each wire so they should be easy to check?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick View Post
    Hi Terry, thanks for the reply, yes no lights at all when I turn the receiver on. A blown fuse was the first thing I looked for, I had a look for that Pico fuse and there is none, there is however a round black Thermal Fuse (TMP T2a 250v) that is by the AC main lines that are plugged into the board (see pic, top-left of ac board), it looks fine but I don't know how to tell when those kind of fuses are blown? I also had a look at all the caps but none are bulging or leaking, one of the large caps has some yellow stuff at the bottom (see pic) that's hard as a rock but I think that might be glue they use sometimes on caps? Where do you check the output of the power supply, do you mean checking the voltage of all 10 wires that plug from the power supply board to the main board? Those voltages are all marked beside each wire so they should be easy to check?
    You need a dvom to check for continuity on fuses/resistors/diodes.You need a really good dvom with cap check capabilities for the rest

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Noof View Post
    You need a dvom to check for continuity on fuses/resistors/diodes.You need a really good dvom with cap check capabilities for the rest
    All I have is a voltage meter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick View Post
    All I have is a voltage meter.
    Good for continuity,resistance & voltage tests.Get to work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Noof View Post
    Good for continuity,resistance & voltage tests.Get to work.
    That's the problem, my knowledge of how to test electronic power supplies is limited to the very basics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick View Post
    That's the problem, my knowledge of how to test electronic power supplies is limited to the very basics.




    Youtube may help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by runamok View Post
    Youtube may help.
    Yes I have a watched a ton of videos there but most deal with different equipment/power supplies and use special testing equipment that I don't have

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    UPDATE.......

    Using my voltage meter I have 120v going into the board so I know the power switch is ok. The ribbon cable on the back side of the board that connects the power supply to the mother board has 10 wires, all voltages are ok except the 24v rail only shows 21v so my power supply is working but would that 21v reading be enough to stop the receiver from turning on or even getting standby power? The red standby power light does not even light and I think that would operate on one of the 3v or 5v rails? Could it be a blown mother board, all the capacitors on the mother board look good and are not bulging or leaking. I have attached a picture of the back end of the power supply and numbered all the components in red so if you have any thoughts I would appreciate any input.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick View Post
    UPDATE.......

    Using my voltage meter I have 120v going into the board so I know the power switch is ok. The ribbon cable on the back side of the board that connects the power supply to the mother board has 10 wires, all voltages are ok except the 24v rail only shows 21v so my power supply is working but would that 21v reading be enough to stop the receiver from turning on or even getting standby power? The red standby power light does not even light and I think that would operate on one of the 3v or 5v rails? Could it be a blown mother board, all the capacitors on the mother board look good and are not bulging or leaking. I have attached a picture of the back end of the power supply and numbered all the components in red so if you have any thoughts I would appreciate any input.
    I would like to think that the 24v cicuits would at least function somewhat at 21v.May be a bigger problem than that, like one of the smd's or processor.Gets harder to diagnose from here on.
    Good job by the way

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    Thanks Noof, if it is indeed the mother board would I still not get at least get standby power since we have determined that the power supply is ok?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mavrick View Post
    Thanks Noof, if it is indeed the mother board would I still not get at least get standby power since we have determined that the power supply is ok?
    Not without the correct signal to the power supply from the motherboard.

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