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Thread: signal, no signal, signal, so signal....

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    Default signal, no signal, signal, so signal....

    In the past few months I've noticed something strange. My T5 boots up and on 82 north, it appears to have no signal, displaying 'bad signal' and blinks constantly. Until I move to 91 north and almost instantly get channels, but have to move up and down the channels until it all clears up.
    Now moving back to 82 north, it still takes a while to actually get good signal up again. The signal bar shows red, then green for a quick second, and back to red. It seems to be trying very hard for signal strength to be good, but eventually does get up to snuff. Takes approx. 5 minutes all together, from power on.
    My questions is...could it be old/poor connections outside? You know, the cables, switch etc.? Too damn cold to go out there right now and try and see, but just wanted to see if anyone else had these types of issues recently.
    Thanks.
    testing viewsat ultra, viewsat platinum light, coolsat 6000, dreamlink HD T5

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    If it's to cold to check cables,switches,LNB's etc. outside, couple of things you can check for are
    1. Try another power adapter (plugs in wall plug) 2. Add some (cooling)fans to the T5 to help with heat issues
    3. HD Module maybe on it's way out, or not seated properly and/or heat buld-up
    If you are getting the No signal or bad signal showing on TV screen I would be leaning to #1 power adapter especially
    if it was the original one that came with the box, they are a KNOWN problem

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    How cold is it outside?? If below freezing it could be the LNB, the cold could cause the internal local oscillator to drift outside the normal frequency for the correct down-conversion of the transponders.

    Problems switching between satellites could also be due to the cold affecting the LNB or the switch if used and it's outside.

    Does it clear up after it gets warmer during the day, or stay with the same problem's all day long?


    And if it gets warmer to check things out, be careful with the coax cables as the extreme cold can cause the outer PVC jacket to crack if bent too far, water intusion into the coax/connectors can cause all sorts of problems.
    Last edited by Terryl; 01-11-2021 at 05:45 PM.
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    before doing all that i'd check power supply first, also make sure its being cooled. then work your self outside when its a littel warmer

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    for some reason these boxes kill the power supplies i have at least 6 or 7 in my drawer from these that just stopped working i just ordered 4 from amazon they were 2 for 20 bucks so i'd start with that and have a backup because odds are you'll need it. i found a nice little trick of making a little fan from a computer fan and a usb cable and just set it on top keeping it cool video on youtube works great.

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    Get a set of these: hxxps://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=AC+Infinity+MULTIFAN& qid=1610465933&sr=8-2

    can place them anywhere blowing or sucking any heat out on your Rec. box & usb powered to boot

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    Quote Originally Posted by scooby8888 View Post
    for some reason these boxes kill the power supplies i have at least 6 or 7 in my drawer from these that just stopped working i just ordered 4 from amazon they were 2 for 20 bucks so i'd start with that and have a backup because odds are you'll need it. i found a nice little trick of making a little fan from a computer fan and a usb cable and just set it on top keeping it cool video on youtube works great.
    I think the o.e. power supply is either inadequate in output or inadequate in quality.If you're using long cable runs, passive switches & legacy lnbs, they just don't have enough jam.I've been using 12v/4A supplies from Sayal with great success.
    As per the o.ps post:sounds like the 8psk module from here.possible cable/switch/lnb issues, but the 91 sat would likely be affected as well.

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    As to the power supply, these things are massed produced as cheap as they can with cheap parts and sub assembly's from the lowest bidder.

    Using a 12 volt supply in a receiver that may use +13 and +18 volt switching for the transponders, needs to use an internal voltage multiplier circuit, this is an engineering headache.

    I would have used a 24 volt DC supply at around 3 amps, no problems regulating DC voltage downward.(don't use a 24 volt supply)

    As to the switching between satellite, the diseqc switch port #1(if a diseqc switch is used) may be hooked to 91W,(diseqc port #1 is default) thus the clearing up of all problems, and the difficulty's switching back to 82W (diseqc port #2) maybe due to a bad switch, also if the LNB is a dual satellite type with an internal switch, it could be the cold weather affecting it.
    ♫♫♫ Iím a lumberjack and Iím OK ♫♫♫ I drink all night and sleep all day. ♫♫♫



    Coming soon to a crop circle near you.....

    There is a 66 and third % chance that I'm on the right planet...

    "I'm happier then a Jackalope in a balloon factory"

    "First rule of testing satellites"
    "If its working fine now, then don't mess with it"

    "Second rule of testing satellites"
    "If you did mess with it, and now it doesn't work, can you blame someone else?"

    "Third rule of testing satellites"
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    "Can you HIDE it"?

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