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Thread: Insulating an Attached Garage

  1. #16
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    having some thoughts of taking care the electrical outlet first, it might end up as an additional living space instead of a garage

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    Sound good at this end, but I would use the 5/8" rock on the outside walls, you can use the kraft faced insulation, or use a poly vapor barrier, and are you going to paint the walls?. (I would)

    One question, are the walls 2x4 or 2x6 construction? (more room for insulation on the 2x6 walls)
    Last edited by Terryl; 06-18-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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  3. #18
    1Dells Guest

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    Do not install a vapor barrier of plastic. It traps moisture and humidity and will mold. If your going to install a moisture barrier use tar paper or typar, typar is more expensive, but permeable through 1 side. The best thing to do is use vapor barrier primer. Applied to a certain millage it is the vapor barrier and allows for the wall to breath properly.

    And yes, if your going to code you will need 5/8 rock on any wall that backs an interior wall to a living space, and ceiling, but not all walls are necessary in a garage. Saves a little.

    Also...........1/2 inch rock spans 24" on center and is fine.
    Last edited by 1Dells; 06-18-2011 at 07:10 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Dells View Post
    Do not install a vapor barrier of plastic. It traps moisture and humidity and will mold. If your going to install a moisture barrier use tar paper or typar, typar is more expensive, but permeable through 1 side. The best thing to do is use vapor barrier primer. Applied to a certain millage it is the vapor barrier and allows for the wall to breath properly.

    And yes, if your going to code you will need 5/8 rock on any wall that backs an interior wall to a living space, and ceiling, but not all walls are necessary in a garage. Saves a little.

    Also...........1/2 inch rock spans 24" on center and is fine.
    Well I usually go by this as far as where to use a vapor barrier and what type to use.

    Code:
    http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/insulation_airsealing/index.cfm/mytopic=11810
    And in some areas 5/8" rock on a garage ceiling is code for fire rating, (it is in my area) he should check with some of the local contractors about this.
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  5. #20
    Pollypurabred Guest

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    Terryl, not the same site but basically same info I was referring to. As far as converting to a finished room, she had to have the service panel moved when she added the garage so all the wires had to be home run to opposite side of garage. But mostly they are ran overhead so not too much of a problem.

    The code in our township requires fireproof rock on adjacent garage walls and 5/8" on ceilings if it is to be 24" OC. If 18" OC then 1/2 is fine. I am going to do a little more research on the vapor barrier as most sites state you only need if room is to be heated and/or cooled. We are located in NE USA, near water, so it can be pretty humid through the seasons.

    Tks again guys. Appreciate all the inputs.

  6. #21
    MeSat_FTA Guest

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    If there is a ridge vent, make sure that it is actually open. There are many cases where it looks like it is there but has not been cut through the roof sheeting. A common problem with many jobs. May be able to cut it out carefully from the inside if it blocked.

    Ventilation can drop the temperature drastically from the attic area. Heat rises so it needs to be gotten rid of.

    Google for it and there are formula for the area and the amount of venting you need. I would go over the calculated value if you are in a hot climate.

    Insulation needs to be done properly. Pick up a pamphlet from the local home supply house on how to do insulation. It can vary depending on your climate. In some areas, the vapor barrier goes on the outside. In others it goes on the inside.

    in our area, 6" walls are the minimum and some go to 10" walls. This is due to the -40 temps in the winter. Vapor barrier inside under the drywall.

    In a garage, unless it is the code, I wouldn't use drywall. I would use some wood to give a surface to screw too. Plywood or other wood. I have seen that in many new garages.

    Talk to your local building store people about many of the local rules.

    As for insulating the roof, I would do that last unless you get cold winters. Let all the heat from the garage go into the roof and vent out. Insulate the sunny side first.

    As for the roof. All the garages I have seen here is the drywall is just attached to the roof trusses and the insulation is added. Also look at the local recommended insulation levels.

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