Voltage regulator not working

[Terryl]

Terry:that is a Delco 10DN style alternator, & a Ford external regulator.As I stated before, CHECK THE RIPPLE!.If you don't know what it is, it's ac rather than dc current in the charge voltage, indicating a rectifier issue.A rectifier failure can result in high voltage output but it's ac, which is useless to a car battery.

The VR-103 regulator is listed as a GM part, thanks for the info on the type of alternator, I found a wiring diagram using that alternator and regulator, it looks like there may be a missing connection.

Will check the alternator's output for any AC ripple, if found to be too high then it's out looking for a lift of some kind to get to the alternator for replacement.

[Terryl]

Those terminals on the alternator really need to be cleaned up...............

Working on trying to find a replacement at a local auto store,(or Amazon) it's a 60 mile round trip to town around here, not too easy to run down to the local auto shop.

[The Noof]

The VR-103 regulator is listed as a GM part, thanks for the info on the type of alternator, I found a wiring diagram using that alternator and regulator, it looks like there may be a missing connection.

Will check the alternator's output for any AC ripple, if found to be too high then it's out looking for a lift of some kind to get to the alternator for replacement.

You're correct about the regulator.I took a harder look at your image & saw that.

[Terryl]

Working on this fork lift is much harder then a car or truck, there are 3 sections of counter weights in the way, and I have nothing around to lift them off, each one is about 2500 pounds, let alone the safety cage and bars that would have to be removed, plus the seat supports and propane tank mount, all this just to get to the front of the engine.

I think it's an old Chrysler engine in there, that's what comes back up in any model/type search in a service manual for this lift, and the bad part is it's mounted backwards to the way you would look at a car or tuck engine, I wish it had a hood to pop open to look at or work on it.

I can get to the oil filter and dip stick, plus the spark plugs (with a little arm bending) if I have to change them, these are accessible via side panels that are removable and don't weigh a ton, the same with the battery and regulator.

[The Noof]

All things being equal, if push comes to shove & the alternator is the culprit,I would change it to a 10si Delco,self-exciting model as used in the hot rods,customs,ect.It will fit right in where your old externally regulated alternator exists now, using the same mounting system.You shouldn't have to alter the wiring at all.It is a single wire connection type.

hxxps://store.alternatorparts.com/part-7127m-12v-63-amp-10si-series-self-exciting-alternator.aspx

[Terryl]

If it comes down to that I will sell it as is to anyone looking for a fork lift, I will when it warms up a bit, go look into the wiring to the alternator, (after checking the AC ripple) it may have been this way since I bought it.

I don't have the funds to spend on a new alternator right now, the new coil and regulator topped out the budget for the month, so I'm hoping it's just a missing wire or something chewed through on a wire harness somewhere.

[Terryl]

Well after further investigation, I looked at the wiring harness, it was a mess, so with nothing else to do I stripped it down (removed all the electrical tape) and found about 15 splices and wires going nowhere, removed the junk, and rewired it, correctly wired the alternator and regulator, and POOF...It works fine, charging is doing about 20 amps, then tapers off, 13.8 volts to the battery after about 10 min, what a mess.

This is what I'm working on.

Fork lift.jpg

[maird57]

13.8 volts is ideal

[runamok]

Well after further investigation, I looked at the wiring harness, it was a mess, so with nothing else to do I stripped it down (removed all the electrical tape) and found about 15 splices and wires going nowhere, removed the junk, and rewired it, correctly wired the alternator and regulator, and POOF...It works fine, charging is doing about 20 amps, then tapers off, 13.8 volts to the battery after about 10 min, what a mess.

This is what I'm working on.

Fork lift.jpg

I got small forklift about same size that is a 2 speed with reverse.What is crazy about is I can replace clutch and pressure plate and flywheel without splitting engine and transmission.I put 1 wire alternator on it all I needed was start and lights

[maird57]

I got small forklift about same size that is a 2 speed with reverse.What is crazy about is I can replace clutch and pressure plate and flywheel without splitting engine and transmission.I put 1 wire alternator on it all I needed was start and lights

I had a 76 Datsun B210 that you could change the clutch without removing the trans. Took 20 minutes to replace.

[TurboPirate]

I know you fixed the problem but if you need a wiring diagram of the GM/Ford VR I can upload a few different ways to wire this combo.........I personally like external VR, when it goes bad in the wrong place or time situation, you can just swap the part without removing the alternator............TP

[Terryl]

It's a GM alternator to GM voltage regulator connection, the voltage regulator is an external one and plugs in with a connector, and I think it's an old Chrysler 6 cylinder motor in there, so why would I go with a ford type wiring.

Everything is working, so as the old saying goes, "if it ain't broke don't mess with it".

[TurboPirate]

My Bad, I thought it was a Ford VR, like I mentioned on another thread, I need new glasses........Lol

[Terryl]

And I think a GM alternator and a Ford regulator wouldn't play nice in the sandbox together, when friends come to visit and they drive a Ford I have them park on the other side of the house so my Chevy's wont get upset......

[TurboPirate]

Lol, that was funny, if you ever need to combine any of those let me know I have done it........TP